2.25lt Aluminium Heater Plug

[LRPV]

Question

Has anyone replaced the 'redundant heater hole plug' without removing the motor from the vehicle. I have a 'late' Series 2A.

I have some ideas in mind but would like to hear from others.

Regards
Stuart

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/02/600.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

most people just remove the noc plate from the cab side of the firewall, drill a 2 inch hole and have at it.

[JackM]

Hi Stuart,

This aluminium plug will be a challenge. I've never had to replace one of these with the engine in place.

Over a few decades they tend, while slowly decomposing from the inside, to graft themselves very tightly to the engine block and become impossible to screw out. The only way I've found to remove them particularly with the engine in situ, is attrition.

You will need to break bits off and hopefully get most of it out of the hole, while at the same time preserving the thread.

Once that's done, you'll need to clean up the thread (no easy task as it's a very confined space) and screw in a new plug.

I've not tried to heat them, but I think if you did so, you might end up with more of a mess inside the water jacket.

Just another of Solihull's silly ideas.

Good luck.


Jack

[d@rk51d3]

Might be easier to lift out the passenger guard. That'll give you good access.

On a side note, my engine seems to be fitted with a 1" galv plug. I'm too scared to move it, just in case all the thread from the block comes with it.:D

[LRPV]

most people just remove the noc plate from the cab side of the firewall, drill a 2 inch hole and have at it.

Dave

I think you may be referring to the plug marked as #2 in the diagram. I had a look at a bulkhead today that has had this 2in hole cut to access the said plug.

The plug I am talking about is the one directly under the #4 cylinder exhaust outlet.

Stuart

[LRPV]

Hi Stuart,

This aluminium plug will be a challenge. I've never had to replace one of these with the engine in place.

Over a few decades they tend, while slowly decomposing from the inside, to graft themselves very tightly to the engine block and become impossible to screw out. The only way I've found to remove them particularly with the engine in situ, is attrition.

You will need to break bits off and hopefully get most of it out of the hole, while at the same time preserving the thread.

Once that's done, you'll need to clean up the thread (no easy task as it's a very confined space) and screw in a new plug.

I've not tried to heat them, but I think if you did so, you might end up with more of a mess inside the water jacket.

Just another of Solihull's silly ideas.

Good luck.


Jack

G'day Jack

The plug in my motor must be badly deteriorated as it has sprung a fairly large leak. I would like to try and remove as much of the plug as possible and then clean up the thread with the use of a tap.

As d@rk51d3 says, I may have to remove the lhs guard or I may be able to get at it by removing the inlet and exhaust manifolds.

I was also thinking of getting a stainless steel plug made instead of using the aluminium one. There has been talk about aluminium plugs being 'sacrificial'. Does this mean I will need to reinsert an aluminium plug?

Stuart

[chazza]

G'day Stuart,
If the plug has a hole in it then there will not be much chance of unscrewing it :(

I have just done two on my S1 engine; they came out in pieces with a few sharp taps of a cold chisel and hammer. The thread can be cleaned up quite easily with a thread file, which is much more versatile than one tap :D

I will replace mine with aluminium ones; as long as corrosion inhibitor is used in the cooling system they will not be a problem in the forseeable future. Use Loctite 515 on the threads,

Cheers Charlie

[Shonky]

I tried to replace the one on the motor in Gus as a preventative measure, but in the end gave up - I couldn't budge it!

I agree that you will probably have to destroy it to remove it, and there is a risk of damage to the threads. :(

Stupid thing. :mad:

[Wired1]

Old thread but the same problem. Mine is a series three and a couple of days ago she dropped the whole load of coolant on the road.
It was a small hole but I accidentally knocked the back out of the plug making a spanner for it.
I have now drilled a 50mm hole in the passenger foot well to have at it and I'm thinking of expanding it to a good size access panel so I can use power tools to get the old plug out.

Does anyone know what the thread is on this plug? I'll happily put a plumbing bung in there if it's BSP but I will put the original alloy one in if not.

[schuy1]

Why do people insist in making more holes in their landrover? Is it they think there are not enough already? Just remove the guard! takes not a lot of time, gives a heap more access than any 2" hole and allows you to clean and treat any corrosion happening in the joints. I have found removal halves the work ,only a few bolts. The thread is BSP from memory and run a corrosion inhib in the radiator, the alloy plugs act as a sacrificial lamb. If 1 is gone the rest will soon go in sympathy. To remove it run progressively bigger drills in it, then use a soft chisel to break the remains out.
Cheers Scott

[LandyAndy]

I have replaced a few in the past.As suggested above a cold chisel works well.
I was once told they are a sacraficial anode and not to use a brass fitting as other alloy components will corrode,ie water pump.
They are easy to get out,if you have one of those plastic handles that hold a hacksaw blade.Punch the centre out and gently make a few hacksaw cuts thru the soft alloy stopping as soon as you feel the hard block,the cold chisel then will break the bits out,once 1/3 of the outside is removed the 2/3 size peice will come out whole;);););)
Andrew

[incisor]

i use brass for the side plugs and alloy for the rear larger block heater hole plug.

i generally use a cold chisel to knock a hole in it then a shifter on the chisel to unscrew the plug..

works well...

i found it is a lot easier to replace the block heater plug than the others so that why i use the alloy plug there.

have a look at the link below

https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium/coreplug1inchbscon.html

[JDNSW]

......
I was once told they are a sacraficial anode and not to use a brass fitting as other alloy components will corrode,ie water pump.
......
Andrew

I can't think of any (other) alloy bits in the 2.25 cooling circuit, and certainly the water pump isn't. But I think they are sacrificial, to try and preserve the cast iron bits. And brass plugs will sacrifice the cast iron - unless it really is brass not bronze, when it may dezincify itself (depends on composition).

John

[Wired1]

Thanks for all the replies, I''l update with some photos and how it goes when I get it done.
I did look at removing the left guard but this plug is back beside the foot well area and taking the guard off wouldn't give you enough access by itself.
In a perfect world I would take off the guard and the exhaust manifold and maybe the inlet manifold but going through the footwell is right where you need to be and an easy access plate to make up.
I will get a 1" BSP bung and hope that it will be the correct thread. Those brass ones look awesome but once it's in it will never need to come out again.

[Dark61]

I'm a little confused with what's best here. When I had to replace the three core plugs in the side of the engine a while back more than one supplier said not to use the brass versions as they would not act as a sacrificial. Am I misunderstanding something here?
cheers,
D

[Aaron IIA]

I will get a 1" BSP bung and hope that it will be the correct thread. Those brass ones look awesome but once it's in it will never need to come out again.

The brass plugs that Dave is offering are 1" BS Conduit. These are the two under the manifolds. This is not the plug that you are currently replacing.

Aaron

[Aaron IIA]

I'm a little confused with what's best here. When I had to replace the three core plugs in the side of the engine a while back more than one supplier said not to use the brass versions as they would not act as a sacrificial. Am I misunderstanding something here?
cheers,
D

You understand correctly. They don't all need to be aluminium to offer protection. Replacing some with brass, and keeping the easier to change plugs in aluminium will still offer protection.

Aaron

[incisor]

You understand correctly. They don't all need to be aluminium to offer protection. Replacing some with brass, and keeping the easier to change plugs in aluminium will still offer protection.



thats it in a nutshell

and the only ones you can buy off the shelf are the smaller metric ones in alloy for the series iii block which need heaps of sealant to hold them in an earlier block and then leak as soon as the sealant cracks or degrades.

which is why i did the brass shouldered ones so they fit no matter what shape the threads are in, they will tighten up, use a small amount of sealant and never need to come out.

as long as you use an alloy plug in the much easier to access block heater hole you will only need to change that plug periodically. i carry one in the vehicle. they cost $2 at most hardware shops...

that said, the setup i have in madge has been there a while now but i religiously use coolant and demineralised water.

[Dark61]

That makes sense.
Thanks Gents.
cheers,
D

[Blknight.aus]

The best thing to do is to change the sacraficial plug after youve done the rinse out of the chemical flush that you should do every 2-3 years...

Before you install the new one have at the face of it with a 2mm drill bit and dimple up the internal face of it, more surface area gives it more ability to do its thing in protecting the iron.

[Wired1]

Got the old one out today with a few hack saw cuts and the cold chisel - thanks for all the help gents. I opened the access hole up enough to do it all through the passenger foot well and have made a tidy cover to go over it and look stock.

[Dark61]

looks fine and if it ever goes again it will be a quick fix for you.


On a different note , looking at the first pic , if you have gone through the foot well , I wouldn't expect to see the starter motor in that position? Is it a petrol 2.25?
cheers,
D

[Wired1]

Yes Petrol 2.25 - you're not going to tell me it's not the heater plug now are you?

[Aaron IIA]

All appears normal and correct to me.

Aaron

[Blknight.aus]

looks fine and if it ever goes again it will be a quick fix for you.


On a different note , looking at the first pic , if you have gone through the foot well , I wouldn't expect to see the starter motor in that position? Is it a petrol 2.25?
cheers,
D

Starter sighted. (needs pulling and painting and Im going to guess brush work and a bendix service)

[Dark61]

nope - you are perfectly OK - I was thinking you were going in from in front of the passengers feet rather than to the side.
My starter motor just carked it so might be an idea to take blknight.aus advice.
cheers,
D

[mick88]

Old thread but the same problem. Mine is a series three and a couple of days ago she dropped the whole load of coolant on the road.
It was a small hole but I accidentally knocked the back out of the plug making a spanner for it.
I have now drilled a 50mm hole in the passenger foot well to have at it and I'm thinking of expanding it to a good size access panel so I can use power tools to get the old plug out.

Does anyone know what the thread is on this plug? I'll happily put a plumbing bung in there if it's BSP but I will put the original alloy one in if not.




I know it's a bit late, but that plug is for the "Arctic Heater" when fitted.
_

[Wired1]

Wow - and still a rag top. Must be hard men down there on the ice :)

[harry]

I know it's a bit late, but that plug is for the "Arctic Heater" when fitted.
_

There's no way in the world that the 2.25 could heat that cab, especially when the windscreens are getting the heat also.
I reckon there has to be a janitrol heater or similar on the seat box, otherwise that great fan would just be blowing cold air around.
I had one of those fan setups, I think I got it out of a sixties Buick heater many years ago, it was pretty strong.

[67hardtop]

I reckon they would have to have a radiator muff on the front and probably the only cooling would be that arctic heater thingy and i think that would work well IMHO.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[harry]

The previous owner of my 2a shorty station wagon used to take the fan off the engine in winter, and he was in northern nsw, I put a blind over the grill in winter, but heat output is not fantastic, wouldn't want to be in a cold country!

[Dark61]

I got a slight but noticeable improvement when I flushed the heater core.


cheers,
D

[harry]

I have plenty of heat from the engine, the heater, the gearbox and exhaust warming my car, but as it has no linings only aluminium between the inside and outside, the heat generated escapes or is cooled quickly in winter