Another 2a build thread

[drifter]

Well - I went and purchased another Series 2a. The wife has named it but I think the swear filter would remove most of the name ;)

The plan is to get one working from 2. I also have a SWB 2a that has a very rotten chassis and firewall. Mechanically, it will become the donor.

Here is the beginning of my rebuild thread and here are the pics of the latest Landy:

Waiting to be picked up.
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321490.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321490.jpg)

Apprehension (hiding)
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321496.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321496.jpg)

Teasing the Toyota by showing it can go anywhere the Toyota can go - backwards
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321507.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321507.jpg)

EGADS! 'Something is missing!
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321513.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321513.jpg)

Home:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321526.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321526.jpg)

[drifter]

more

The First Class Lounge:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321530.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321530.jpg)

I bet it is the same 'person' who stole the engine that nicked the floor boards
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321534.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321534.jpg)

The middle passenger will NOT be comfortable:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321536.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321536.jpg)

It looks like 'he' pinched the gear lever, too!
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321540.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321540.jpg)

We has a sore foot:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321542.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321542.jpg)

[drifter]

last pictures for now

Some non-Lucas wiring:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321545.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321545.jpg)

It took me a while to work out that the centre object was the choke warning mechanism. I suspect that starter wiring was for a reason, too! ;)
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321549.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321549.jpg)

I am told this was to convert +ve earth to -ve earth. Note - there are no wires connected to the regulator.
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321553.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321553.jpg)

Just your average to basic dashboard.
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321557.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321557.jpg)

The cockpit from the First Class Lounge
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321560.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321560.jpg)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Looks to be a good base for the rebuild :)
Good luck with it and please keep us up to date

[JDNSW]

The disconnection of the regulator suggests that an alternator was fitted, presumably on the Holden engine indicated by the hacked front cossmember. Holden engine with a solenoid on the starter will be the reason for the starter wiring.

However, it looks as if the basics are fairly sound, which is a good start.

John

[drifter]

Thanks Mark and John.

The 2.25P I'm putting in it also has an alternator. That vehicle was already a -ve earth one - so I have removed all the 'classy' wiring from this one today. It was going to need a rewire - a lot of the wiring that was there was pretty bad - so it has gone.

Small things, I know - but the vent controls from the donor migrated over today, too. They worked whereas the ones in this one sorta did - and didn't! Happily, they do now!

I bought four 750x16's a couple of days ago - still plenty of tread on them so, this weekend, we will make a start on putting them on.

Because of the donor engine having an alternator, I have decided that the ammeter in the current dash was superfluous (it was a 30-0-30) - so I am bringing the other dash over, too. I have removed both from the vehicles and will start cleaning up the one I will finally use.

I received 2 front grill assemblies with this one. One is painted the same as the vehicle but has been cut for the Holden radiator. The other is in pretty good condition but will need a sand and paint job. I have stripped the lights (sealed beams) and bonnet latch from it and will start sanding pretty soon.

The biggest job, in the near future, will be to remove the engine from the donor and strip it down and check it over. I particularly want to replace things like frost plugs and rear seals because, once it goes back in, I don't want to be removing it for a while.

Anyways - enough rambling for now... back to sanding...

[JDNSW]

Thanks Mark and John.
..........
Because of the donor engine having an alternator, I have decided that the ammeter in the current dash was superfluous (it was a 30-0-30) - so I am bringing the other dash over, too. I have removed both from the vehicles and will start cleaning up the one I will finally use.
...........

Watch it! Although removing the ammeter from the circuit is a good idea if you are using an alternator, you should note that when the electrical system was changed to incorporate a temperature gauge, there was also a change to the fuel gauge. The newer temperature and fuel gauges are powered from a voltage stabiliser, screwed to the bulkhead on the 2a, back of the speedo on the S3, and the fuel tank senders are different for the two fuel gauges. If you use the later dash panel, with its newer fuel gauge, you will have to also use the voltage stabiliser, and the fuel tank sender from the donor. An alternative would be to simply replace the actual ammeter with the temperature gauge and keep the old fuel gauge. Also, note the different arrangement of warning lights in the two panels.

John

[drifter]

You're a champ! Thanks.

I had read about the regulator and had rescued it from the other 2a - but I didn't know about the fuel sender.

I'll go grab that, too.

There was a strange device attached to the flasher unit, too. I'll take some pictures and see if anyone recognises it.

John

[drifter]

Here are 3 different views of the device that is attached to the flasher. I haven't seen one before. Any idea of what it is? (click on the pic for a bigger view)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321590.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321590.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321593.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321593.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321596.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321596.jpg)

[drifter]

The only markings on it say:

12V
RBV
Registered Trademark Australia

and it was connected to the flasher X terminal

[subasurf]

Is it a clicker? You know, the thing that makes the 'tick-tock' noise when you've got the indicators going?
Just a guess.

[drifter]

I hadn't thought of that but I guess it could be. Apart from the flashing light on the end of the stalk, there is no other indication.

[subasurf]

Maybe run a bit of electricity through it and see if it clicks? :D

[drifter]

am just wiring it up on the bench now:D



Edit: and it is dead. I have a Bosch P123 unit here that works fine - so I'll use that and throw this one in the bin.

[Sleepy]

The flasher unit itself does the clicking. :confused:

I am guessing too but perhaps hazard warning lights modification?

[JDNSW]

One caution about the blinkers - most negative earth 2as did not have blinkers fitted from the factory, and blinkers were fitted by dealers after they became compulsory about 1964 and earlier ones by owners. Many dealer installations and almost all owner ones would not have used Landrover kits (I know the three I fitted blinkers to didn't!), so the system you have may not conform to the factory spec. The fact that you mention a light on the end of the stalk confirms it is not a Landrover one - this has the light on the box that the stalk comes out of.

John

[drifter]

Thanks Paul & John.

Paul - it's in the bin now. The silly thing didn't work - but the Bosch unit from this car did so I will use that.

John - I have two indicator stalks.

In this car, it is a Tex Magna-Lite unit and has, as you say, a light in the 'base'. The rubber 'follower' is buggered so I have no idea where I will get a replacement if I choose to use it.

The other unit is in the 1971 2a and it has a bulb on the end of the stalk. It has no return mechanism, though. It is a 'Foxton' brand.

[JDNSW]

Thanks Paul & John.

Paul - it's in the bin now. The silly thing didn't work - but the Bosch unit from this car did so I will use that.

John - I have two indicator stalks.

In this car, it is a Tex Magna-Lite unit and has, as you say, a light in the 'base'. The rubber 'follower' is buggered so I have no idea where I will get a replacement if I choose to use it.

The other unit is in the 1971 2a and it has a bulb on the end of the stalk. It has no return mechanism, though. It is a 'Foxton' brand.

The Tex Magnalite is the factory item (but may still be aftermarket and differ in installation details). There was a thread here within the last few weeks about replacing the wheel or the rubber ring - a search should find it. There were several solutions mentioned.

Found it
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-2-2a/73532-indicator-rubber-wheel-replacement-link.html

John

[drifter]

Yeah - thanks - I remember reading the thread but haven't been able to find it just yet. I recall the poster found an O ring that fitted but couldn't remember where he found it.

Thinking of O rings - I am going to go looking tomorrow for some to go around the instruments so that, when I fit them back in the dashboard, they will have the rubber 'washer' there to help hold them in nicely.

[subasurf]

The flasher unit itself does the clicking. :confused:


Doesn't on my SIII.
No clicking at all, although there is a 3rd party warning light added to the dash as well as the arrow indicator lights. Pretty spiffy.

[Sleepy]

Doesn't on my SIII.
No clicking at all, although there is a 3rd party warning light added to the dash as well as the arrow indicator lights. Pretty spiffy.

I have the same flasher as pictured in my S1(without the do-dad) and it clicks. Although agree my S3 doesn't click. Wouldn't matter ITS A 2.25D AND YOU CANT HEAR THE RADIO EITHER. - OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR THAT MATTER. :lol2:

[subasurf]

YOU CANT HEAR THE RADIO EITHER. - OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR THAT MATTER. :lol2:

hahahah tell me about it! :D:D
Hence I haven't gotten around to installing a UHF.

[drifter]

So... I got the little rubber ring sorted for the indicator 'return home' mechanism. and I got some new 'o-rings' for around the instruments on the instrument panel. $5 the lot and I thought I had a bargain - until I noticed they have a minimum purchase limit of $5! Would have been interesting to see how much they really were. He will make rings and seals, too, so I'm pleased with that part of my day out.

I am currently putting the external lamps on the back - the front was fine. Number plate light is rotten so I'll go looking for one of those soon.

My indicator lenses had faded with time. A bit of lens dye has brought them back to life.

Softly, softly catchee monkey...

[drifter]

I have 2 rear tailgates. Both have a hinged assembly in the middle for a number plate. And, obviously, both have number plate lights on them.

How do you wire them and retain the ability to remove the tailgate?

Do you have a 'hidden' plug somewhere?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

John

[JDNSW]

I have 2 rear tailgates. Both have a hinged assembly in the middle for a number plate. And, obviously, both have number plate lights on them.

How do you wire them and retain the ability to remove the tailgate?

Do you have a 'hidden' plug somewhere?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

John

The only way you could completely remove the tailgate was to disconnect the wires at the bullet connector in front of the crossmember. If I were doing it this way today I would find a suitable in-line polarised two pin plug and socket and put it a couple of inches outside where the wire emerges above the crossmember.

My current 2a has the number plate on the RH side of the tailgate - it does not fit, but it does with the edge under the lip of the tailgate! An alternative approach would be one of the smaller custom number plates. But in a restoration I would use the original tailgate setup with a plug and socket, as this is indistinguishable to how it came from the factory.

John

[drifter]

Thanks John - I have a high current plug and socket I used for electric R/C aircraft - I'll use one of those.

[drifter]

Next question.

Earlier, we mentioned the voltage stabiliser as an item in the later 2a vehicles.

All my reading so far has indicated that they produce a steady 10V to the temp and fuel gauges.

I set up a test on the workbench for the one I have here - providing it with a regulated 12.8V input.

Open output produced 12.7V

Hmm - needs a load?

I then modified my test to include the fuel gauge.

Output was still 12.7V and the gauge climbed slowly to the 'F' position.

So - my question for this post - should it be 10V?

If so, it looks like my unit is broken. I can easily make an electronic stabiliser so that won't be a problem - just wondering about the output and whether mine is right or not.

John

[JDNSW]

Next question.

Earlier, we mentioned the voltage stabiliser as an item in the later 2a vehicles.

All my reading so far has indicated that they produce a steady 10V to the temp and fuel gauges.

I set up a test on the workbench for the one I have here - providing it with a regulated 12.8V input.

Open output produced 12.7V

Hmm - needs a load?

I then modified my test to include the fuel gauge.

Output was still 12.7V and the gauge climbed slowly to the 'F' position.

So - my question for this post - should it be 10V?

If so, it looks like my unit is broken. I can easily make an electronic stabiliser so that won't be a problem - just wondering about the output and whether mine is right or not.

John

The voltage stabiliser is one that operates by a bimetal strip and a small heater element which switches power off and on, a higher voltage giving more current and hence faster heating and switching off, and will not actually give a stable 10v - what it does is to give an average of 10v, as measured using a meter with a long time constant, such as the bimetal strip guages for fuel and temperature. If the input voltage is 12.7, the on cycle will be about 80% of the time and the off about 20% on a cycle of several seconds. If you just take an instantaneous reading, you will get either your input voltage or nothing.

However, I suspect your problem may be that you have not realised that the case must be earthed for it to work.

An electronic one should work perfectly well, but the original type usually works forever - most replacements made because "it doesn't work" are successful simply because the action of replacing it has given a good earth to the new stabiliser, and simply fixing the earth on the old one would have done the same.

John

[drifter]

<snip>

However, I suspect your problem may be that you have not realised that the case must be earthed for it to work.

<snip>

John


Sorry, I should have mentioned that I was using the case as the eth

My bench power supply +ve was connected to the 'B' terminal.
The -ve was connected to the case.

I connected the 'I' terminal to one side of the fuel gauge. The other side of the fuel gauge was connected to the same earth (the stabiliser case).

The multimeter was connected across the 'I' terminal and the case.

Cheers,
John

[JDNSW]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I was using the case as the eth

My bench power supply +ve was connected to the 'B' terminal.
The -ve was connected to the case.

I connected the 'I' terminal to one side of the fuel gauge. The other side of the fuel gauge was connected to the same earth (the stabiliser case).

The multimeter was connected across the 'I' terminal and the case.

Cheers,
John

That ought to work, as long as by "fuel gauge" you mean fuel gauge plus sender in series. Otherwise, if it is just the fuel guage, it will go straight to full. If you have your multimeter across the output of the stabiliser, you should see intermittent on/off, with a period of several seconds (long time since I've done it, can't remember how many seconds). The output is independent of whether anything is connected or not.

John

[drifter]

Ah, no - bench test so no sender.


So... I opened it and checked it out inside.

There is continuity through the coil around the bi-metallic strip but the strip is not getting hot enough to bend so no open/close circuit is happening at all.

I connected a thermocouple to the outside of the coil and there is no heat coming off that area at all.

The resistance through the coil suggests that the unit should be drawing 1 amp when 'on' but all I am seeing is 280mA

Strange... Later on tonight I'll build an electronic one and see how that works.

The bottom line is: all I want is 10V at the meter terminals.

In other news I appear to have found the friendliest tyre place in Canberra. They did an excellent job for me today and I now have 4 fully inflated tyres (two with new tubes) on the vehicle.

Also, I have tested all my wiring at the back of the vehicle and all lights work as designed.

I am much chuffed!

[JDNSW]

Ah, no - bench test so no sender.


So... I opened it and checked it out inside.

There is continuity through the coil around the bi-metallic strip but the strip is not getting hot enough to bend so no open/close circuit is happening at all.

I connected a thermocouple to the outside of the coil and there is no heat coming off that area at all.

The resistance through the coil suggests that the unit should be drawing 1 amp when 'on' but all I am seeing is 280mA

Strange... Later on tonight I'll build an electronic one and see how that works.

The bottom line is: all I want is 10V at the meter terminals.

In other news I appear to have found the friendliest tyre place in Canberra. They did an excellent job for me today and I now have 4 fully inflated tyres (two with new tubes) on the vehicle.

Also, I have tested all my wiring at the back of the vehicle and all lights work as designed.

I am much chuffed!

Sounds as if there is a bad connection at the contacts - a brush up with a points file should fix it. Although it could be another bad contact - from memory these things are well supplied with compression joints between different metals that Joseph Lucas (or Smiths) hoped would give good electrical contact for the life of the vehicle - which to be honest, they probably did not expect to be as great as the 40-50 years on this one.

John

[drifter]

True on the expected lifetime ;)

I did run a points file across the points but it made no difference.

Amazing how much easier the vehicle is to push around with 4 inflated tyres!

Damn near killed me the first time with both rears flat. Was a doddle - even though slightly uphill - this time. I reckon it has added nearly 6" of 'lift' to the rear end, too.

[drifter]

This weekends silly questions concern wipers or, more specifically, wiper motors.

The vehicle being restored has 2 wipers, individually controlled, under the windscreen.

One of them only swings through about 20º so I thought, that would be easy - I will pull it apart and clean and regrease everything - except it won't come apart.

There is a block (mounting block) with 2 recessed nuts holding the block in place. One of the nuts came out - the other won't.

So.... plan #2

The donor car has a single motor in the far left of the 'dashboard'. It has the 'cable' assy that drives 2 fittings on the bulkhead under the windscreen.

Question #1: assuming that I can cut the hole in the correct place in the top edge of the dashboard ledge and further assuming that I drill the holes in exactly the right place UNDER the windscreen mount and above the vents; will this work OK? I am figuring on filling the holes in from the old wiper mounts (just under the windscreen glass).

Question #2: The wiring for the wiper motor from the donor machine would suggest that this is a single speed motor. Have any of you put a two speed motor in here? Is there a real requirement to do this?

Thanks in advance.

John

[drifter]

Sounds as if there is a bad connection at the contacts - a brush up with a points file should fix it. Although it could be another bad contact - from memory these things are well supplied with compression joints between different metals that Joseph Lucas (or Smiths) hoped would give good electrical contact for the life of the vehicle - which to be honest, they probably did not expect to be as great as the 40-50 years on this one.

John

I managed to pick up a brand new voltage stabiliser today - the last of his stock and still at the old price of $22. He says he will order new ones but they will be around $40 or so. This one is in a box marked Land Rover original spares and is stamped LUCAS so we will see how well we go with that later on tonight.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Regarding your question 2 of post 34, my Dad had a series 3 which he wired through a light dimmer switch to give infinitely variable wiper speeds. Seems a better proposition that a 2 speed to me and since you have all the other bits, sourcing the dimmer is easy too.

[drifter]

I am still looking at that idea, Mark. Thanks.

Not a huge amount of progress on the vehicle in the past month.

The wiring is complete now.
The lights are all working (with new replacements ready for when I get annoyed - er - if any break).
New dashboard is installed.
Wipers are installed, motor installed - all works.
Demister hoses are installed. Heater is awaiting stripdown and rebuild.

New parts arrived today - most of them are for later on in the project:

new brake master cylinder
new brake flexible hoses
new rubber boots for gear/transfer/4wd levers
rubber inserts for bell housing (both sides)
bag full of screws and clip-on 'nuts' for attaching the flooring
new fuel cap that will actually not rattle
locking mechanism for fuel cap

paint for roof area
all new window rubbers (13 metres of it! )
sealant to form a gasket between the rooftop and the sides (I have a little leak)

that's about it...

time for me to get busy I guess :D

[UncleHo]

G'day Drifter :)

What you had as your blinker in those first pics, well it was the old 3 pin flasher can with a Falcon type 2 pin connected to it,:) so if you had replaced the 3 pin unit with a new 3 pin the blinkers would probably work, it has been a few years since I have seen a 3 by 2 piggy back :D the main problen with the old style wiper motors, is that the brushes wear out, and or the little insulation block where the wires pass through the body breaks,both are available from such people as KB Classic Spares in Qld,(not on internet,(07)54 944 221 he is the Lucas man)

cheers

[drifter]

Thanks UncleHo

The flasher unit - hmmm - yeah - I had no luck with it on the bench - I am guessing my load wasn't enough to trigger it - so I put it in the car anyway because it had a mounting lug on it and was, therefore, easier to mount in the space at the back of the dashboard. Both of the other units I had here (including a new one) didn't have mounting attachments.

Well - what a racket!

It worked - and I am guessing the noise could have been heard over the sound of the engine at full revs - seriously - it was loud.

So I removed the 2 pin bit - and the flasher still works - same cadence - less noise.I may have to put it back when finally mobile so I can hear it 'blinking' but I can always rat up an electronic one, too. So that's a win.

I would have been quite happy to proceed with the individual wiper motors - if I had been able to get them apart for refurbishing. Alas, one nut was seriously locked in and I couldn't continue with dismantling it. Hence the decision to swap - and because the single motor unit was all I had available... in it went :)

The only problem I had with the new installation is that the new wiper arms I received are cranked such that both blades would need to move in the same direction at the same time. I needed the passenger one to be different.


I got:

o--------/ o--------/


when I wanted:

o--------/ \---------o

if you can see what I mean.

So - I had to use the old wiper arms which means I have a set of Series 2/3 wiper arms here as spares and I have to refurb the old arms.

[UncleHo]

G'day Drifter :)

Here are a couple of numbers fro the current Narva Cattledog for electronic flasher cans

68238BL 3 pin 6x21w +ad 5watts suitable ind & hazzard load sensitive type globe outage indication, there should be a mounting bracket for it.

68254BL 4 pin 6x21=5additional watts, flasher + Haz,where an additional pilot curcuit is req for trailer,load sensitive with lamp outage ind, metal mounting tag

68256 same as 54 with 5 pins where a pilot curcuit is required for both trailer and car.

Go to your local Narva dealer and ask to have a look at his catalogue pages 209--221 ;)


Hope that is of some help.

cheers

[drifter]

Fantastic.

Thanks Uncle.

Local parts suppliers for anything are few and far between here but I am sure I did see a Narva agent.

At Repco, they upgraded their computer systems a wee while ago and the guys doing the upgrade said "you won't need these any more" and tossed all their old manuals into the skip.

Well, the boss kinda knew better and retrieved them all. It's a fantastic resource if the boss is there as he lets me scour through the old books finding the alternatives that their computer system doesn't list.

The newer and younger staff only believe the computer! ha! those books are getting more valuable every day.

[UncleHo]

G'day Drifter :)
I think that Repco is a retailer of Narva electrical components and if you are on talking terms with you local Repco manager, ask him to get to ask the Narva rep for a copy of the 2008/10 catalogue,380 pages + the HID supplement ;) worth it's weight in gold,so whether you are after globes,lamps,connectors,fuses,relays,flashers, it's got the lot :D
just like me having all my old Landrover master parts books ;) all he can say is NO

cheers

[drifter]

Will do - thanks UncleHo

[banjo]

UM more pics plz...updates....:D

[drifter]

UM more pics plz...updates....:D

Patience, Grasshopper...

[drifter]

OK - I have been busy helping a mate with his Series 1 rebuild and have had little time for my vehicle - but by now he should be up in Bourke and I have some time to get back to mine...

I have a couple of gear lever questions...

There, Gods willing, should be two pictures attached to this post.

My first question relates to the circlip shown in the first picture. (Item D)

Have any of you managed to get it out? If so, how? Is that spring a problem? What's it like to reassemble with only basic tools? What was your method for removal and installation?

My second question related to Item A (Pin, locating lever ball). This donated gear lever doesn't have one. I can 'fix' that, however I am disturbed by the installation method depicted in the second pic.

"Peen housing to secure pin" - so - how would you ever get it out again if you have peened the housing 'too much'? Would a bolt in there (with a tapered end to fit the groove) and a locknut on the outside work? I know the top of the housing will sit pretty much level with the 'floor' that covers the gearbox and I know that there will be a rubber boot to deal with. Would there be room for an external nut and bolt?

Appreciate any answers...

Thanks
John

[peterg1001]

My first question relates to the circlip shown in the first picture. (Item D)

Have any of you managed to get it out?

When I took my gear lever off, the inside of the housing still had a fair bit of grease in there. I got the grease out, had a look, and decided to leave it in one piece. Gave it a general cleanup, repacked it with heaps of grease, and it seems to be fine.

Peter

[groucho]

"Peen housing to secure pin"
Just a light centre punch mark either side to stop screw comming out.
Don't go silly with it.............

[JDNSW]

..........
My first question relates to the circlip shown in the first picture. (Item D)

Have any of you managed to get it out? If so, how? Is that spring a problem? What's it like to reassemble with only basic tools? What was your method for removal and installation?

Can't help you with that one - I have never actually needed to get one out - even welded broken levers without removing it.

My second question related to Item A (Pin, locating lever ball). This donated gear lever doesn't have one. I can 'fix' that, however I am disturbed by the installation method depicted in the second pic.

"Peen housing to secure pin" - so - how would you ever get it out again if you have peened the housing 'too much'? Would a bolt in there (with a tapered end to fit the groove) and a locknut on the outside work? I know the top of the housing will sit pretty much level with the 'floor' that covers the gearbox and I know that there will be a rubber boot to deal with. Would there be room for an external nut and bolt?

Appreciate any answers...

Thanks
John

As far as the pin goes, with my 2a, the pin came loose in the alloy casting and wore the hole oversize. So I drilled the hole out, tapped it (can't remember the size) and made steel a bush threaded inside and out which I loktited in place. The new pin I made was also loktited in rather than peened as it was in steel not alloy.

John

[banjo]

OK - I have been busy helping a mate with his Series 1 rebuild and have had little time for my vehicle - but by now he should be up in Bourke and I have some time to get back to mine...

I have a couple of gear lever questions...

There, Gods willing, should be two pictures attached to this post.

My first question relates to the circlip shown in the first picture. (Item D)

Have any of you managed to get it out? If so, how? Is that spring a problem? What's it like to reassemble with only basic tools? What was your method for removal and installation?

My second question related to Item A (Pin, locating lever ball). This donated gear lever doesn't have one. I can 'fix' that, however I am disturbed by the installation method depicted in the second pic.

"Peen housing to secure pin" - so - how would you ever get it out again if you have peened the housing 'too much'? Would a bolt in there (with a tapered end to fit the groove) and a locknut on the outside work? I know the top of the housing will sit pretty much level with the 'floor' that covers the gearbox and I know that there will be a rubber boot to deal with. Would there be room for an external nut and bolt?

Appreciate any answers...

Thanks
John

I know mine is a series 3 but i pulled my gearstick apart cause the bush on the bottom just wasn't there so when it was out i looked under it & the old grease was filthy so i pulled it apart & soldered a new bush on the end & cleaned all the old grease out & put all new grease..
ITs not hard to do & thespring isn't under presure enough to fly out when you remove the clip..
I used a cheap pair of circlip pliers & the when i pinched it open i gave them a little twist & it came out & done the same to put back in..

[drifter]

I know mine is a series 3 but i pulled my gearstick apart cause the bush on the bottom just wasn't there so when it was out i looked under it & the old grease was filthy so i pulled it apart & soldered a new bush on the end & cleaned all the old grease out & put all new grease..
ITs not hard to do & thespring isn't under presure enough to fly out when you remove the clip..
I used a cheap pair of circlip pliers & the when i pinched it open i gave them a little twist & it came out & done the same to put back in..

Thanks. I would rather pull it out and clean it up - the ball in there has about 40 years of grease totally stuck to it (and that is just the bit I can see).

I am re-arranging the garage at the moment to see if I can fit the landy in here (which means the camper gets to go live outside for a while).

Once I have the work benches and shelves rearranged I'll have a go at it.

[The ho har's]

Thanks. I would rather pull it out and clean it up - the ball in there has about 40 years of grease totally stuck to it (and that is just the bit I can see).

I am re-arranging the garage at the moment to see if I can fit the landy in here (which means the camper gets to go live outside for a while).

Once I have the work benches and shelves rearranged I'll have a go at it.


cover the camper it will be fine:) working on the landy is the go:D


Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

yup - I have a cover for it. I am also going to chain it to the donor 2a as well as putting it on axle stands and whipping the wheels off so no local bogans can take it for a little play.

[drifter]

I know mine is a series 3 but i pulled my gearstick apart cause the bush on the bottom just wasn't there so when it was out i looked under it & the old grease was filthy so i pulled it apart & soldered a new bush on the end & cleaned all the old grease out & put all new grease..
ITs not hard to do & thespring isn't under presure enough to fly out when you remove the clip..
I used a cheap pair of circlip pliers & the when i pinched it open i gave them a little twist & it came out & done the same to put back in..


er...

yes it is!

and, yes it did!

but it's apart now and I can give it a decent clean

[banjo]

er...

yes it is!

and, yes it did!

but it's apart now and I can give it a decent clean




HAHAHA my spring must be worn it came out with some force but not enough to worry to much , I only held my hand over it just in case...:D;)

[drifter]

Well - it's apart. 40 years of grease and grime have gone. All bits that interact have been polished and masked. All bits that don't have been primed. Will paint later this arvo. I'm keeping the garage at a steady 20ºC for the paint... the gas bill is going to be enormous! :D

[drifter]

It went back together a lot easier than it came apart...

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/400/1D321803.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/1024/1D321803.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/400/1D321804.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/1024/1D321804.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/400/1D321805.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/1024/1D321805.jpg)

[banjo]

Looks like a brandnew one..

[drifter]

It's been a while since I posted. Work on the rebuild hasn't stopped - I just haven't recorded much in here...

A quick catchup for anyone interested:

Last December I picked up an 88" 2a. Unfortunately, the chassis was rusted to bits (beyond any repair). The engine did run but was as noisy as anything - I put that down to the hole on the top of the exhaust manifold...

So - I purchased a 109" 2a that came without a motor and have been puddling along stripping it down (in places) and cleaning it up, rewiring it - that sorta stuff.

Last weekend we moved the donor next to the 109 and this weekend I started to take the donor apart to make it easier for engine removal.

Left guard off, grill and radiator off. Water pump doesn't feel too good...

Exhaust off and manifolds removed.

Hmmm

Exhaust manifold is in 2 bits... :

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321989.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321989.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321990.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321990.jpg)

Kinda explains the noise - and why it was parked up under a tree all those years ago...

Here is the hole I knew about:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321994.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321994.jpg)

I have another exhaust manifold that I'll be using...

[JDNSW]

Not unusual - I have replaced my exhaust manifold with a similar fault.

John

[drifter]

Thanks John. I didn't know it was common.

Here are the bolts that held the front bumper on. You will notice I broke 2 getting them off:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321984.jpg)

[JDNSW]

Look a bit like mine, only worse. I had to carry out some minor repairs to the bit of the chassis they came out of. You probably need to do a bit of checking for rust in the area.

John

[drifter]

Thanks John. They are off the donor which was made a donor because of the rust in the chassis and firewall.

That front end of the chassis is so bad I am surprised the front of the springs haven't come up through it to meet me.

I may take a pic of it - just for interests sake.

[drifter]

Here it is:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321997.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321997.jpg)

[COFFEY76]

Ahhh wow...that is some good rust.... Mine were that bad, but only as far up as where the plates that meet the springs joins the hanger...not back to the cross member...awesome rust...

[drifter]

agree!

I can't believe it all stayed together on the trip home. Looking at that, one bump on the road and I should have expected to see a pile of red, rusty remains on the trailer tray...

The back cross-member is just as bad. All the major outriggers have gone - including the one that the firewall bolts to.

Dis-assembly should be simple - a decent whack with a hammer - and a grinding wheel for those bits that haven't yet succumbed...

The radiator mount (grill assy) was totally rotten. The 3 bolts that hold it on to the front cross-member tabs weren't actually holding anything on. All of that area was hidden under an apron.

It was something of a surprise.

Good thing it was free (less trailer hire and traveling costs).

[COFFEY76]

Where did you pick the car up? Its always interesting to ponder about the life of the Landy to cause it to be so rusty...

[drifter]

Down on the South Coast (of NSW). He was/is a dam builder and this was his 'go on site' vehicle for quite a while. There is half of the region stuck underneath it, too. The steel never had a chance. That and 10 years of retirement - most of them out in the open but the past few under a tree.

Interesting thing is - the roof doesn't leak at all. It stays dry inside in all the wet weather we have had here - whereas the 109 rapidly becomes a paddling pool - until it leaks out.

[COFFEY76]

My 109 leaks everywhere...very enjoyable in a strange way.

Damn builder is different! Least you know some history on your car. All i know is that mine has gone to alice springs back in 1984 for the Department of Transport show, Including desert insulation. And has had wooden rifle racks behind the seats. And a previous owner welded a trailer hitch to the front bumper to reverse his boat into his back yard....

Glad i havent had to deal with much rust.

Good luck to you for the build!

[drifter]

The Series 1 I used to have had a tow ball on the front bumper. I had a fairly large boat at the time and I used that tow ball for the same purpose - as well as putting the boat in and pulling it out at the slip. Very handy.

[COFFEY76]

Should I Get rid of the tow bar? Or get a boat to attach to it? haha

[drifter]

hehe - I seem to remember my front towbar was a magnet for knees or shins, depending on height...

[drifter]

I reckon all old Series mechanics must have been 8' tall with bulging biceps and little hands so they can lean over the guards and get to some of the most awkward locations I have ever encountered. (The biceps because of the power required to undo some of the fittings and the little hands so they can actually get to some of the places).

The right guard came off the donor today and I have to say, some of the nuts and bolts were in really difficult places.

[drifter]

here is the other side of that chassis member posted above:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D321999.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D321999.jpg)

[COFFEY76]

wow! I'd be surprised if there was anything made of steel that you could salvage!

[drifter]

The gear lever is pretty good! :D

Here is some 'trivia' for you. While working on dismantling it today, a red Landcruiser pulled up at my neighbours place. An older gent - long white beard - gets out and wanders over.

"I know that vehicle," he says. "You picked it up from Moruya, didn't you?"

I agreed. He went on to tell me that the guy I got it from was his business partner and he (my visitor) had ridden all over the place in it!

Small world... my visitor is my neighbours father.

[jc109]

The gear lever is pretty good! :D

Here is some 'trivia' for you. While working on dismantling it today, a red Landcruiser pulled up at my neighbours place. An older gent - long white beard - gets out and wanders over.

"I know that vehicle," he says. "You picked it up from Moruya, didn't you?"

I agreed. He went on to tell me that the guy I got it from was his business partner and he (my visitor) had ridden all over the place in it!

Small world... my visitor is my neighbours father.

I love it. You wouldn't find many other vehicles that would draw that sort of reaction from people. I can't imagine myself in years to come wandering over to chat with someone about the Hilux I drive for work at the moment.

[drifter]

The engine came out of the donor and is now sitting on the engine stand in my garage.

This weekend coming I will start cleaning years of gunk off it and, next week, I'll start stripping it down.

[drifter]

*sigh*

Further delays.

What I had assumed to be a lip of carbon at the top of the bore in the engine is not. The bore is worn.

So... it looks like I am heading down the rebore path.

The pistons I removed were 'standard' size. I can't, at this point, find any .010" pistons - but I can find some .020" ones - with rings. It looks like I am in for a delivery wait, too.

This is Canberra so my rebore options are pretty limited.

Gutted.

[easo]

Good read bloke, keep up the photos, love it.

Easo

[drifter]

Thanks Easo

If you scan around the 2 & 2a pages you will find a few more threads relating to this vehicle with a lot more pictures.

[stevep]

hey drifter,

just been looking at your photos. looks good & with a lot of work to go. I have just bought a series 2 swb ute that needs lots of work too. It has a holden motor which I would like to replace with a 2.25. I would like to have a look at your rebuild so I can see what I am up for. Which suburb are you in? I am in monash? & have a D2 TD5 as well.

regards
Steve

[drifter]

Hi Steve

I am over in Amaroo.

You are right, though - there is quite a way to go so not a lot to see at this point.

Thanks for your interest, though

John

[drifter]

Well, time, I guess, for an update. The block is back in my shed and slowly getting put back together. I keep getting sidetracked by other issues :D

The new door tops arrived. Strange thing. The glass is the same 'height' on both doors, the channel is the same 'height' at the back - but there is a 6mm gap at the top of the door between the top channel and the inside of the door top on the passenger side only. The drivers side was OK. Peculiar. I had some 6mm heavy duty non-compressible rubber the right width and length - so the passenger door looks a little 'different' :eek: but the doors and their associated tops are in and on - need some rubber to keep the worst of the outside out - that'll come later. New hinge pins awaiting the time when the doors go on for the LAST time.

The donor 2a has been completely dismantled and disbursed - not a lot left of it here at all now - a gearbox and a couple of diffs under the hedge. The Grim Reaper is much happier that her front lawn is unadorned with rotting Landy bits.

New wheel bearings have arrived and will be installed soon - along with finishing the brake replacement program that started a couple of months ago.

New clutch master and slave cylinders have arrived, complete with new hydraulic hose - to go with the new clutch plate that is waiting to go on the back of the engine when I get that far.

New front halfshaft waiting to go in the passenger side of things...

New exhaust is partially installed - awaiting the engine install to line it all up - it's better sitting up under the vehicle than cluttering up the shed - I appear to be running out of room here.

New radiator is waiting for the repainted shroud to be affixed...

Propshaft universals waiting to be installed - new boots waiting to go on...

New fuel pump, distributor, waterpump awaiting install.

Timing gear replaced - and will be finally adjusted when the head goes back on.

New pistons, rings (we ended up going 40 thou over) and bearings (including cam bearings) installed in the block.

Oil pump seems a bit noisy - will have to tear that apart to see what is going on in there.

If I have left anything out, it's because I am running out of think :D

[JDNSW]

If you would like me to have look, I will be with my son in Yass for about ten days from 23/2. As he works in Canberra I expect to be in Canberra from time to time. Send us a PM closer to the time.

John

[drifter]

John, you are always welcome to pop in for a look anytime. You may feel somewhat drained when you leave as you know I'll be picking your brains :D

[drifter]

I have had a couple of people ask how my rebuild is coming along. The last month or two has really been focused on the engine whenever time has been available.

I am now at the point where the engine is nearly ready to go back in the vehicle.

So - the landy engine, awaiting clutch and mounting in the vehicle. Yes, it will need the starter motor and fuel pump and oil filter... They are in boxes waiting to be attached...

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322235.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322235.jpg)


http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322237.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322237.jpg)


http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322238.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322238.jpg)


http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322239.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322239.jpg)


Next, the gearbox rebuild!

[chazza]

Nice work John! Your shed looks as over-crowded as mine :D

The gearbox is quite easy to do,

Cheers Charlie

[drifter]

Nice work John! Your shed looks as over-crowded as mine :D

The gearbox is quite easy to do,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Chazza

Yeah - the shed should have had a cleanout before I started on this - but it didn't :D

I'm going to be mucking around with stuff for the drive train so it may take a bit longer than expected.

Series 3 gearbox on my transfer case and RR diffs... maybe

[Radical]

Very Inspirational John,I am finding it is easy to be distracted from what outcome I want for my restorations,mainly the negative jibes and barbes from the armchair experts. They don't seem to understand what its about.You are made to feel that it should have been on the road last week,when for me I don't care how long it takes,its almost as if because I have a disability it means I am not allowed to have fun,(Why would you want a bone shaker,your disability cant be that bad.) Anyway Up em a say and keep all the good inspiration coming.
Cheers Konrad

[drifter]

Hey Konrad

Thanks for the comment - yeah, this one's been taking a while but I have to fit it around other things, too. I'm not too worried, though. I have my own timetable.

re: the armchair experts. Yeah, there are a few that prefer to be negative but, in the majority, there are some fantastic fonts of knowledge in this place. Check out some of the replies in this and many other threads. There are many selfless people who provide positive encouragement and pearls of real wisdom. (I ain't gonna name them because 1) it would embarrass them and 2) I might miss one or two and that would embarrass me ;) )

What are you working on? What are you doing to it? What would you like to do?

Cheers, mate
John

edit: found it - that's a very nice Series 3 you have there

[drifter]

Well... the gearbox is nearly all assembled now. Just the selectors and clutch operating mechanism to do.

I'll do them tonight and, with luck, will be putting the gearbox back in tomorrow.

Hmmm - maybe the engine this weekend...

I got a little bit sidetracked. I wanted to replace the diff breathers (yeah, I know, it's a long way from engine and gearbox but it all has to be done) with breathers that I could attach tubing to and thereby be less afraid to ford small streams.

I rang around and got quite a lot of advice which was all similar - the thread on the diff housing for the breather is a BSF thread. So, I rang the guys at ENZED and asked about them - no worries, come in with an existing breather and they will check it out. Which I did - and they supplied me with some right-angled fittings I could attach some hose to. It was a good result.

While talking to others, though, they also recommended that I put a couple of breathers on the gearbox on the theory that, if there was a way to relieve the internal pressure, the gearbox would be less inclined (at least initially) to leak.

So... I purchased a 1/8 BSPT tap and cast an exploring eye over the gearbox...

The flat plate that covers the output shaft. That'll do. (Done :D )

Where next? I was advised to poke a couple in. Still looking for another 'worthy' location. Any ideas?

[chazza]

Nice work drifter!

On my box there is a circular steel disc staked into the top-cover, which I suspect replaced the oil filler cap on the S1 boxes, and the removable square plate further back on the top-cover. Both of these have a small hole drilled in them to act as the gearbox breather.

If you have put the new breather on the rectangular plate, it might be wise to block the hole on the foremost one if you intend to go swimming :)

Cheers Charlie

[drifter]

Thanks Charlie

I have that circular steel disc, too and, yes, it has a hole in it. It is also fairly mobile in that it rotates very easily - so I suspect its waterproofing ability is doubly doubtful. :D

I'll seal it. No point in stripping a gearbox, getting new bits, re-assembling it and letting the water in ;)

[dullbird]

Drifter the engine looks great, be interested in hearing about your gearbox rebuild as we got some seals to change on ours I thing before it goes back in

[drifter]

Thanks Lou

I created a bit of a thread in the Series 3 section (because I am putting a Series 3 box in). It's not complete - I tend to get things done and then think of documenting or photographing later.

I bought a 'gearbox gasket kit' from fwd.com.au (in Melbourne) for $11

I wasn't expecting to get as many gaskets as it contained. Best $11 I have spent in a long time.

I was advised to use high temp RTV for all joints - so I did - with a gasket tossed into the mix as well. For the rubbers on the bellhousing, I got those from GaryClr. The rubber seals for the gear selectors came from fwd.com.au - cheap as chips - just remember that the reverse one is a different size to the other two.

I picked up a handbrake shoe kit from GaryClr which included the rear seal. Be careful taking the speedo drive assembly off the back of the transfer case to fit the seal - there are shims there and they are important.

Ah - depending on the layshaft you have as to the 'fixing' behind the clutch activation assembly. That sucker has to be torqued up to 75ft/lb.

Think ahead and have your gearbox in a position where you can select a forward and reverse gear at the same time. I chose 3rd and reverse. That locks up the gearbox tighter than a budgies bum and you can swing on the torque wrench to get the required tightness. (I learned that one here on AULRO ;) )

Aside from all that, it went back together a lot easier than the engine :)

Tomorrow we'll see if it still fits in the hole it came out of - it's not as easy as I thought getting it out - putting it back in will be 'interesting'. I have all the body on and I'll be annoyed if I get out of control and smash my beautiful new dash... :D

[drifter]

The engine and gearbox are in the vehicle! For the first time in goodness knows how long, there is a Landy engine in the engine bay!


+++++++++++++

I am now doing up a million nuts and bolts.

When it is all securely in, I will start connecting things...

... like:

the exhaust
fuel lines
fuel pump
brake light wiring
temp gauge wiring
ignition light wiring
alternator wiring
oil filter
carby and its connections
starter motor earth and wiring


and then:

radiator and hoses...
front and rear driveshafts

and then

rear brakes
front left brake (the right one has been replaced)

bleed brakes
bleed clutch

um

and while doing that - I guess I should have a battery on charge and nip down to the servo to get a few litres of fuel and some engine and gearbox oil.


With luck, I should be attempting to start it this weekend.

[dullbird]

thanks for the info:)

[drifter]

Finally!

I had a problem getting it started and narrowed it, I thought, down to the new distributor.

I was trying a few things when Toad arrived to give me a hand.

The first thing we found is that there was very little spark.

Possibly a crook coil - so we shot around the corner to SCA and got another one and put that in. Still buggerall spark.

I wasn't happy with the brand new distributor - to my way of thinking it wasn't pointing (the rotor wasn't pointing) to where plug #1 was supposed to be when the engine was at TDC - and there was no way I could adjust it to point to #1

and then we found that the carbon brush in the distributor cap wasn't in a position to touch the rotor and was stuck 'up' and the rotor seemed to be wrong - the rivet that I would expect to touch the carbon brush wasn't centered so there is no way it would have touched the brush (even if the brush was working)

So we bunged the old dizzy in and it started.

I will now have to sort out a good working dizzy for it because the old one is borked - the advance/retard mechanism is stuffed and it is basically worn out.

So, when I have that done, I can fine-tune the motor.

I still have a water leak - I replaced the washer on the heater tap last night with a new copper one but it wasn't good enough. I will have to get a fibrous washer in there and use some plumbers tape or something to seal the tap in place.

I have 2 oil leaks. Quite a bad one on the front output shaft of the transfer case. That needs a new oil seal and I have ordered a new one.

The other oil leak is a minor one (very slow leak - more a case of 'moisture' gathering into a drip every couple of hours or so) around the sump plug! Grrrr. I will get another new copper washer for that and use some plumbers tape or something similar (blue loctite) and that'll sort it. Problem is, it's gonna dump 6.5 litres of brand new oil when I take it out...

Anyways - onwards and upwards.

The motor was nice and quiet - no banging or clicking - very happy about that! My new exhaust sounds good.

I am a happy chappy.

[chazza]

I have 2 oil leaks. Quite a bad one on the front output shaft of the transfer case. That needs a new oil seal and I have ordered a new one.

The other oil leak is a minor one (very slow leak - more a case of 'moisture' gathering into a drip every couple of hours or so) around the sump plug! Grrrr. I will get another new copper washer for that and use some plumbers tape or something similar (blue loctite) and that'll sort it. Problem is, it's gonna dump 6.5 litres of brand new oil when I take it out...



Congratulations cobber!

With the leak on the transfer case, be prepared to have to speedi-sleeve the shaft, as over the years dirt and muck end up scoring them quite badly but it is an easy job to do.

With the sump plug, drain your oil into a very clean container and then you can re-use it straining it if necessary. Old washers can sometimes be re-used by annealing them first (heating to a dull-red and allowing to cool). If the face of the mounting boss and the head of the plug are in good condition you won't need any sealant on the thread. If you use silicon sealant on the thread, small lumps of it will end up in the sump oil and start to block the strainer :(

Cheers Charlie

[Window]

love your work John! can't wait to see the finished landy!

I'd love to buy an ild 2a or 3, but the missus would kill me. I have a HQ prem i have to start on first!

[drifter]

love your work John! can't wait to see the finished landy!

I'd love to buy an ild 2a or 3, but the missus would kill me. I have a HQ prem i have to start on first!

Thanks.

The exterior won't be as pretty as the engine and gearbox :D

As long as it gets me from A to B and back again, I'll be happy. I am after mechanical reliability so I am prepared to spend time on the mechanical bits.

[Window]

my missus has said i can buy an old landie, as long as she gets the 80 series, and get rid of her car. got to find one close to rego first!

[drifter]

My missus asked what I was going to do when I got this one all done.

"Buy and redo another", I said.

"I don't think so," she replies.

"Not your decision," I said.

A while later she was on the phone to her mother telling her that I'll be doing another one later. Her father is now ringing, telling her of ones he has found for sale that I might be interested in!

No probs here :D

[korg20000bc]

I told my wife about buying another old fix-a-upper and she said "As long as I can have a new pair of pyjamas."
What a woman.

[dullbird]

well beat this women I found Ian's for him! Went and fetched it and parked it on the front lawn for when he got home from work as a surprise :p

[korg20000bc]

You're a great woman too!

[drifter]

Gotta love 'em :)

[drifter]

So... I have repaired a little wiring problem I had that had the ignition and oil pressure lights come on as soon as the battery was connected - that is now working properly.

My new electronic distributor is in and now working semi-reliably - I am finding my skills are not yet up to tuning the vehicle properly - but I suspect I am pretty close.

It's now time to sort out brakes and universals and stuff...

[drifter]

but, before I can get to the brakes...

There is a leak from the crankshaft rear seal :(

So today it was gearbox out, clutch out, flywheel out, gearbox adapter plate/flywheel housing off...

It just doesn't look right - so I am going to replace it with another new one I have here.

That can be tomorrow.

I replaced the front output seal on the transfer case today. 13 months of sitting there and not a leak - put everything back together and fire the engine up and there is a steady drip of oil from that front output seal. The bugger won't leak now!

[drifter]

And today was a reverse of yesterday

Sump off.

Sorted out the crankshaft oil seal, gearbox adapter plate/flywheel housing on, flywheel on, clutch in, gearbox in, sump back on.

Waiting for leaks...


Toad came over to give me a hand. It's a lot easier with two people! Thanks Toad.

[The ho har's]

And today was a reverse of yesterday

Sump off.

Sorted out the crankshaft oil seal, gearbox adapter plate/flywheel housing on, flywheel on, clutch in, gearbox in, sump back on.

Waiting for leaks...


Toad came over to give me a hand. It's a lot easier with two people! Thanks Toad.

Doing a terrific job:D...I know all about crank seals etc we pulled ours out today:(:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

Thanks Missus Double Aitch :D

Yeah - I am subscribed to your thread so I had a look at todays pics. Shame about that piston. Any idea what size it is? Mine was original factory but the bore was lipped. I could have gone out to .030" over but couldn't find any quickly so went to .040" over.

If I had a big shed I guess I would be a lot further on with mine. The engine and gearbox I did on stands in the garage but all other work is done outside so it really depends on the weather as to what gets done on any given day :)

[The ho har's]

Thanks Missus Double Aitch :D

Yeah - I am subscribed to your thread so I had a look at todays pics. Shame about that piston. Any idea what size it is? Mine was original factory but the bore was lipped. I could have gone out to .030" over but couldn't find any quickly so went to .040" over.

If I had a big shed I guess I would be a lot further on with mine. The engine and gearbox I did on stands in the garage but all other work is done outside so it really depends on the weather as to what gets done on any given day :)

No idea, assume it is original, haven't bothered to check...anyway we have an engine to put in if need be,:) we have spares:o, though the original will be in sooner or later ;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

I kinda figured you had some spares around :)

[The ho har's]

I kinda figured you had some spares around :) Yep it makes life much easier sourcing parts.. you only have to go down the paddock;):D

Mrs hh:angel:

[mick88]

Great looking vehicle, you have done a fabulous job.

Cheers, Mick :)

[drifter]

It's getting closer...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322325.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322326.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322326.jpg)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322327.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322334.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322334.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322335.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322335.jpg)

[drifter]

A couple more:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322343.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322343.jpg)


http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322353.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322353.jpg)


Steering wheel back in, too:
http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322361.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322361.jpg)


http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322362.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322362.jpg)

[stevep]

looks good - now that the seat box is back in :BigThumb:
steering wheel looks good too.

regards
Steve

[The ho har's]

OH looking very flash:) love the white crank handle:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

I have shared the pictures elsewhere and you are the first to mention the crank handle! Well done.

I may yet paint it yellow - or black. I am still undecided on that.

[The ho har's]

I have shared the pictures elsewhere and you are the first to mention the crank handle! Well done.

I may yet paint it yellow - or black. I am still undecided on that.

Black is the normal color...or just rusty if you haven't refurb it:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

Yes, all of the early cars I had from age 15 came with a crank handle - I've certainly used enough of them over time.

This one certainly was black originally, it still had some of the paint on it - but I am happy enough to paint it any colour. The functionality will remain.

[Wallydog]

Real nice job. interior looks A1. W.

[series2110]

mate i note you have an adjustable seat base - i assume from a S3

i will keep my eye out for 1 of those

Peter M

[JayBoRover]

mate i note you have an adjustable seat base - i assume from a S3

i will keep my eye out for 1 of those

Peter M
G'day Peter M.
I believe the drivers seat slider was an option from much earlier than the S3's. My '64 S2a has one. I've pulled it out with the seat box (it's my parts donor car) but haven't played with it to see if it will slide. Need to clean all the crap out of the rails. The actuator release lever pivots up and down though.
Cheers
John B

[drifter]

As John says, it was an optional extra in the S2a

[series2110]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35951&stc=1&d=1305544440http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35952&stc=1&d=1305545020http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=35953&stc=1&d=1305545020

this was registered in NSW up till August 2009 - i have had it to the engineers for an initial report and its all favourable

i spent a few hours therapy on it last Sunday

it will be stripped to bare chassis and then sand blasted etc etc etc

i expect a 2 year project

its a 307

Peter

[drifter]

Cool. Looks like fun. I saw some of the early pics of it that you showed me. Nothing recent though. You'll be wanting the engine stand soon, then? :)

[dullbird]

I like the way the guards and bonnet flip forward

[drifter]

I have had a few problems getting the engine to idle properly.

Strike that. I have been having problems getting the engine to run without the choke pulled fully out.

Recap for those who may be interested...

I rebuilt a 2.25 petrol engine and installed it in the 109" HardTop. I decided that the old distributor needed replacing and, even though I had put a new kit in the carby, it's main throttle shaft was too worn so I would just replace the carby.

I installed 2 new units - carb and dissy.

We couldn't get it to start at all - so we put the old dissy back in and it started. So I bought another new dissy, this time an electronic one.

Mixed results - it would run but only with the choke out and the distributor horribly advanced.

So - today we had a look at it.

We ripped the top off the new carb and checked that the float measurement was correct. We gave it all a general once over and reassembled it (the float adjustment was within spec).

Same problem but a look down the carb throat showed that it was spraying way too much fuel down the hole...

So we retrieved the old carb and slapped it on. Within minutes it was all running nicely, the timing was set properly - all is OK with the world...


except...

what are the odds of receiving (and installing) a borked distributor AND a rooted carb?

I need to still get a working carb. The throttle spindle slap is really not too good - but it will do for now.

As for the new one? It's junk, mate.

[drifter]

These arrived today - just have to decide which vehicle they are going on (and if I will paint them first).

[Wolfman_TWP]

I have had a few problems getting the engine to idle properly.

Strike that. I have been having problems getting the engine to run without the choke pulled fully out.

Recap for those who may be interested...

I rebuilt a 2.25 petrol engine and installed it in the 109" HardTop. I decided that the old distributor needed replacing and, even though I had put a new kit in the carby, it's main throttle shaft was too worn so I would just replace the carby.

I installed 2 new units - carb and dissy.

We couldn't get it to start at all - so we put the old dissy back in and it started. So I bought another new dissy, this time an electronic one.

Mixed results - it would run but only with the choke out and the distributor horribly advanced.

So - today we had a look at it.

We ripped the top off the new carb and checked that the float measurement was correct. We gave it all a general once over and reassembled it (the float adjustment was within spec).

Same problem but a look down the carb throat showed that it was spraying way too much fuel down the hole...

So we retrieved the old carb and slapped it on. Within minutes it was all running nicely, the timing was set properly - all is OK with the world...


except...

what are the odds of receiving (and installing) a borked distributor AND a rooted carb?

I need to still get a working carb. The throttle spindle slap is really not too good - but it will do for now.

As for the new one? It's junk, mate.

I had a similar problem, when I installed a new dissy into my 2.25. I found that for some reason, it was out by 180 degrees. As when I put in the original, she would start, and with the new one she wouldn't. I now have it working perfectly. I did the same too, with electronic ignition, and it's now working with both. Starts first go. Still needs fine tuning, but otherwise running fine..

Wolf

[drifter]

I had a similar problem, when I installed a new dissy into my 2.25. I found that for some reason, it was out by 180 degrees. As when I put in the original, she would start, and with the new one she wouldn't. I now have it working perfectly. I did the same too, with electronic ignition, and it's now working with both. Starts first go. Still needs fine tuning, but otherwise running fine..

Wolf

I'm glad I am not the only one that found the dizzy was out by 180º. I set it all up meticulously - using the old dizzy as a template when I rebuilt the engine.

So now mine is working with the electronic dizzy 180º bass-ackwards and I guess the new non-electronic one I bought would probably work that way, too.

I guess I could pop the dizzy out and relocate the drive 180º and put the dizzy back in and then my spark plug leads wouldn't look so awkward. :D

[The ho har's]

These arrived today - just have to decide which vehicle they are going on (and if I will paint them first).


Ooooh nice:)

Don't talk about dizzys our 'claire' wont start she turs over and we are thinking the same here, 180 deg out:(....we have a S2 here (not ours) that had the same problem we worked on it for hours then, the light turned on:) and we changed the dizzy all is fine now:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[drifter]

The dizzy saga is a pain in the arse.

If you set the meshing gear up as per the manual with your trusty old Lucas 25D4 that came out of it so that the lecky end of the rotor is pointing to spark plug #1 and then find the replacement distributor they sold you is a modern day equivalent of a Lucas 45D4 then you are going, in my opinion, to have this same problem.

The positioning can be altered by lifting out the 'meshing' gear and putting it in 180º out - but that flies against everything the manual says...

... so you end up scratching your head and calling mates over for assistance...

I think I (and and everyone else caught out in this way) are too trusting. In hindsight, what I should have done is set the old and new distributors side by side and inspected every sodding little facet of them.

But, as you know, hindsight vision is 20/20 :D

[Wolfman_TWP]

The weird part with mine was, that if I modified the new dizzy to match the old one, she would keep back firing.. As the gear wheel is keyed so will only go in one way only. So I put it back. And the rotor button is still pointing 180 degrees, from where #1 is. and it works? :o go figure..

Also mine is a standard dizzy with the electronic internals, which I got separately. And man that was a nightmare as well (no instructions, as to how to fit it). But in the end she runs very well.

Wolf

[drifter]

Yeah - mine is like a 45D4 with electronic internals and came with no instructions. Must have got them from the same source, huh? :)

[drifter]

And it's time to close off this very old thread :)

I never did get it roadworthy but recently sold it.

The new owner is giving it a real going over and will be taking it on a Series Land Rover Simpson Desert trip later this year!

It was a sad time watching him drive it onto the trailer to take it away but it will be great to see it properly on the road.

Only one Landy in the driveway (actually, on the front lawn) now...

[toad]

Well Fernando has had a roof off experience to allow some fetteling of the rear quarter, again. Plus new waste and roof seals, windscreen frame and seal plus the door seals are now fitted.

I have started putting in the factory seat belt brackets and belts so her-indoors is happy! New lights all round should make the rego dude happy. Finally the brakes are getting a seeing to with new front and rear cylinders and front shoes. A bleed and it should be good to go!

A Land rover finished Drifter, never.

Toad.

[drifter]

And there we have the new owner :)

If you were to search around these forums a bit, you will find a Series 1 build by Toad - and after the build it went on a ~3000k road trip

He has a few Land Rovers - including very nice 1971 Range Rover that has over 1,000,000km on the clock...

And the Fernando reference?

You will know that pistons come in set sizes - standard, 10 thou, 20 thou, 30 thou...

Did you know that the initial standard set, fitted at the factory, have a sub-set: a, b, c & d?

During manufacture the assembly chooses the closest possible size to the standard bore.

When this engine was pulled apart, the pistons were stamped (from 1 to 4) abba !

So with that name on the pistons and Mrs Ho Hars insistence that 109" Landys are boys - the name Fernando was attached to the vehicle during my ownership.

It appears that Toad wants to continue the name... :)