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NPT
25th February 2010, 10:35 PM
Im looking to buy a Tdi defender. What is preferred 200 or 300 Tdi? What are the benefits/drawbacks of each. Is there any particular components that are vulnerable/ need to be taken care of, eg. timing belts etc..

any info would be greatly appreciated

Lost Landy
25th February 2010, 11:13 PM
Ive been told that 300TDI engines are easier to get parts for as compared to the 200TDIs? However my 93 200TDI is going along great its a hell of a lot better then my series 3 :D

spudboy
25th February 2010, 11:38 PM
The 300 is newer of course, so that helps, and a bit quieter, and parts are getting harder to find for 200's, so I'd be voting for the 300. They are a very sorted engine.

But still, it's hard kill either, even with a big stick..... ;)

spudboy
25th February 2010, 11:44 PM
Oh - And I see this is your first post, so welcome to the forum :D

Chucaro
26th February 2010, 07:07 AM
Welcome to the forum.
The Tdi 300 would be my choice because is a later model. Look for a 1998 if you can.
You live in Brisi so if it is possible take the selected vehicle to MR Automotive for a pre-purchase inspection.

When you have it do the timing chain and fit the engine saver ;)

All the best.

Ranga
26th February 2010, 12:12 PM
Im looking to buy a Tdi defender. What is preferred 200 or 300 Tdi? What are the benefits/drawbacks of each. Is there any particular components that are vulnerable/ need to be taken care of, eg. timing belts etc..

any info would be greatly appreciated

I've just decided today that I might be keen to sell my 1995 110 to buy a new model. Check the link in my signature for a better look if you're interested. It's just recently had the timing belt done and has a TM2 engine saver. ;)

Michael2
26th February 2010, 01:26 PM
The 200 Tdi has a more robust timing belt than the 300Tdi. Timing Belt replacements are critical in a 300Tdi.

The 300Tdi is reportedly a bit quieter and slightly more powerful.

200Tdi Heads are no longer available, but 300Tdi heads can be fitted to a 200Tdi.

The 200Tdi was differently set up in the Defender than in the Discovery, whereas the 300Tdi was the same for both vehicles. That means that the whole engine - drivetrain is interchangable (ie gearboxes, housings etc). The Defender had a differant Transfer Case ratio to the Disco, so compensate for the larger tyres it runs. And ofcourse the Defender had the Salisbury rear diff.

Alternators were different and it seems aftermarket alternators for the 200Tdi are cheaper. If you get the 300Tdi, it's worth upgrading to the 100amp alternator of the 300Tdi Disco, as it has a higher capacity and better build quality thatn the 65amp alternator on the Defender. The 65 amp unit has an unsealed rear bearing, and should ideally have the back cover removed and be regreased every 20,000km or so.

200Tdi Defenders also had Drum Brakes on the back, so getting a 300Tdi will give you discs all around, and these are a lot easier to service.

Given the low volume of Defenders sold, I thought it might be easier to be able to scavenge from both Defender and Disco wrecks in the distant future, so opted for the 300Tdi, with which I am very pleased.

NPT
26th February 2010, 01:45 PM
Thanks for the welcome..
So its looking like the 300 Tdi would be the preferred option..
Are there any other helpful hints that you can give me/things that i should look for??

Ranga PM sent

cewilson
26th February 2010, 08:13 PM
200Tdi defenders also had Drum Brakes on the back, so getting a 300Tdi will give you discs all around, and these are a lot easier to service.

Mine doesn't :angel:

Michael2
26th February 2010, 08:20 PM
Mine doesn't :angel:

Was it a late 200Tdi, or was it changed by a previous owner? I think they went to discs in 1994, but not sure.

Didge
28th February 2010, 11:02 AM
Welcome NPT, Being in Brisbane and buying locally I'd expect RUST, RUST, RUST (it'll have probably been to Fraser a few times) in the bottom of all doors, the floor wells, especially the front passenger under the aircondititoning and check rear cross member and whole chassis for welded plates suggesting repairs . Pull the front mats right out (completely out) and look at the front area of the footwells and base of A pillars. Do not simply lift mats and assume all is clean. Check for general corrosion in aluminium panels. Also, check for rear axle and hub wear on the splines and the ball joint on top of the rear diff (often a cause of backlash when you release the clutch) - both simple and cheap enough to repair. Happy hunting
ps you'll become addicted to this joint and don't forget to wave when you get ya deafener :)
beers Gerald

kowari
4th March 2010, 09:37 PM
Mine doesn't :angel:

Mine does't either, it's feb 1994, or registered then from new.

VladTepes
6th March 2010, 03:52 PM
I've had both.
The 200Tdi gad less turbo lag and a bit more low down grunt, plus better engine braking downhill (marginally). Pretty poor on the highway - revving quite high @ 100 kms.

The 300Tdi - smoother - better top end. And I prefer the gearbox that comes with them.

Plus if you ever want to put an auto in them you'll need a 300Tdi. (just a thought fo rthe future).

Cheers