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The biggest problem I found with cokin was finding people that sold genuine at a reasonable cost..
I nearly bought a kit through ebay once and realised I wasn't buying genuine cokin filters but copies. needless to say I didn't buy them...
I did find them else where for about 145 I think it was for an ND kit, but then many on here said they didn't like cokin which made me think again, I still have not bought any yet so will watch this thread with interest
Cokin would have to have the worst web site I've seen in a long time............but the brochure seems worth reading. More research for me.
Im still not sure why you need an ND... I think the GND is very usefull for the contarsting shots (landscapes)... but straight ND can be attained (already mentioned here) using the A/S/ISO controls.
I have been frustrated with burned sky or underexposed foreground to save the sky shot... GND is where its at.
Rubbish! Let's say I want to shoot a long exposure. To get the shot I want I need at least 1/8 second exposure. The lens I have will go to f/22 but in this case f/11 - f/16 is a better option as the image is sharper in this range for the hyperfocal distance I want. So how do I then go from 1/30 second, f/22, ISO100 to a lower speed shutter and wider aperture of 1/8, f/11, ISO100?Quote:
Originally Posted by stooge
Answer: a 4 stop ND filter - two stops for aperture and two stops for shutter.
Now if I am shooting at ISO800 and I have 1/30, f/22 then I can step the ISO down to ISO100 gain 3 stops so now I have 1/8, f/16, ISO100. Throw on a 1 stop ND and I am again down to 1/8, f/11, ISO100 - though I'd probably be happy with f/16).
There is still a need for ND filters with the present range of camera's and lenses. After all it is all about manipulating the light entering the camera.
As for Grad ND's in reality this is in fact the one that the cameras are starting to overcome. The ability of cameras like the D3s, D300s and even down to the D3000 and some point and shoots with what Nikon calls D-lighting (Canon and others have similar processing ability) to work with high contrast areas is moving away from the need for GND's. There still is a point though that some part of the image will be too bright and a GND is the way to go. Blown highlights are still an issue with digital sensors, but they are improving.
Ahh yes DM, however now what you are doing is modifying the light source itself (by filtering it out with a filter)... which is fine for an affect you have in mind. If you do want to alter the metering this way then yes, I agree with you, you do need this.
Im thinking of just natural light, and only using a GND to stop over exposure to attain a 'natural' look. What your talking about it creating a fictional light to get the 'soft' look for example.
Edit: Should add that im am still learning the craft of photography so am happy to be corrected ;)
I am not planning to have a ND filter kit in my bag
Grad filers yes, in 03,06 and 09 which are very handy on landscaping captures.
The ND can be avoid by selecting the exposure even in very hard situations like the one down below.
I am not sure that my D300s can be a replacement for grad filters :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...10/06/1888.jpg
Taking pictures is all about modifying the light source to suit the composition. Arthurs post just above is a great example.Quote:
Originally Posted by stooge
From memory you have a D80 which like my old D200 is pre the Active D-Lighting ability of the D90 and D300s etc. This is all about the ability of the camera to record a scene with high contrasting areas. Have a look at Nikon D Technology THE POWER TO CHANGE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY it might help explain this better. But like I said "starting to overcome" I believe there is still a need for GND's too.