Post your HDR pictures

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Originally Posted by incisor

d90 with tokina 35mm f/2.8 on my crap cheapie tripod

i picked 5 images i liked best from 5 sets of 3 brackets that vary from 1/15s -f/18 +1.oev and 1/60s -f/9 -1.0ev and 1/60s -f/14 -1.0ev and 1/15s -f/9 +1.0ev and 1/30s -f/9 0ev

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Interesting approach! Most people lock the aperture and just over and underexpose each side of zero. At small f-stops it wouldn't matter too much, but I wonder how that would work out at larger stops, where the depth of field would be changing dramatically from source image to source image???

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Originally Posted by Chucaro

Nice images Inc. Looking at the leafs on the trees it appears to me that there was a bit of wind during the time of capturing the shots.
If it was so, as a matter of experimenting, try to do another PP using only 3 frames instead of 5 and have a look if the leafs are a bit sharper.
I use 3 frames many times according to the climatic conditions specially when the sky is cloudy.
Cheers

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Depending on the software you are using, you can select a source image as a reference, and use that to remove ghosting between images, i.e. moving leaves, water, etc.....

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Originally Posted by mike_ie

Interesting approach!

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i'm a bunny. sometimes i like what i do most times it looks crap and a lot of times what i think looks okay is crap to others so i just plod along doing my own thing. one day i will get time to do a course or two.

if i fluke one others like as well i am extra happy :D

Inc without getting into to much detail your 5 shots equate to:
1/60 f/9 +1ev
1/60 f/9 -1ev
1/60 f/9 -2.6ev
1/60 f/9 +3ev
1/60 f/9 +1ev
Holding aperture and shutter constant. Given the distance to subject the hyperfocal distance would have mean't there would have been minimal difference to the subject matter from aperture. Not total accurate a description but near enough.

In general with HDR you really only need 3 shots -1/0/+1 EV but this can depend on the brightness of the subject and a number of other factors, you need to look at the histograms to really work out what is best (-2/-1/0 or half stops may be better or a larger bracket range). If I'm shooting a bracket for HDR off tripod I set the camera to manual (auto ISO off too), take a test shot, check it then set the bracketing, put the shutter to continuos high and fire away (cameras will stop when they run out of bracketing count).

But no matter what you do, the main thing is your happy with it. I like the gum tree and the natural rendering of the HDR makes for a good image. The ghosting is the only real issue.

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Originally Posted by dmdigital

The ghosting is the only real issue.

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where i didn't line things up properly you mean?

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Originally Posted by incisor

where i didn't line things up properly you mean?

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not so much you not lining things up properly, but rather where things have moved between photos. HDR being a combination of shots that are sometimes a few seconds apart, if you're taking pictures that contain leaves in the wind, clouds, waves on the sea, etc, these things move between the shots that make up the HDR image, and the software doesn't know how to combine them.

Good HDR software will first analyse the source images, and tell you if there are any such differences between the images. If there are, it then allows you to select a base image, and ignores the data from the other images where it doesn't match up with the base image.

Yes, the movement of the objects between the frames is what stop me to take HDR shots during stormy weather of when the clouds are moving fast.
In some few occasions the movement of the clouds give the image an acceptable moody effect.
But at the end of the day it is a matter of taste.

what they said :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...02969822_n.jpg

Ballycarberry Castle, Ireland. This was the week before Christmas, so the sun was low and weak. D200 18-35. 3 images, F5 1/100 with +/- 1ev. Photomatix Pro in Aperture. I'm not happy with it - there's some irregularity in the blue sky.

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Originally Posted by mike_ie

not so much you not lining things up properly, but rather where things have moved between photos. HDR being a combination of shots that are sometimes a few seconds apart, if you're taking pictures that contain leaves in the wind, clouds, waves on the sea, etc, these things move between the shots that make up the HDR image, and the software doesn't know how to combine them.

Good HDR software will first analyse the source images, and tell you if there are any such differences between the images. If there are, it then allows you to select a base image, and ignores the data from the other images where it doesn't match up with the base image.

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i didnt use hdr software. i dont own any although i just downloaded and tried the photomatrix that was mentioned

i didnt set out to do a hdr pics, it was an after thought when i looked at the pics i had taken and thought hmmm wonder what would happen if i tried to use each pic as a layer and away i went whilst doing server maintenance in an attempt to stay awake.

i sliced diced scaled and cropped etc etc etc and then flattened the layers and then screwed with some of the various sliders etc and was surprised as hell where is was looking so went and took more care and came up with some that i really liked.

i know understand your other post a bit more...

i used the edge of a stump on one pic and a mark on a tree on the other as my datum points and aligned the layers to that.. 3 or 4 hours later i had my pics

i tried the photomatrix software on my 5 source pics and got this (it just cropped it and only got a smaller pic but i just used the out of the box defaults) i had to screen capture it as i couldn't work out how to export it as a jpg in the little time i had :(

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1357340300

i might try the three ones i like most when i get some time later see if it comes up better

Here is one from New Year's Eve at Bare Island in Sydney. I really like this spot. It's easy to get there and every time I go the lighting is different and I get an image I'm happy with.

This is three shots +/-2 and processed in Nik HDREfex Pro.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/01/1345.jpg

Happy New Year, Steve