Check it with a meter in the sun see what actual voltage is then Pop it on a battery and check again with the meter, should drop about 4v approx when loaded if thats the case then its fine.
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Check it with a meter in the sun see what actual voltage is then Pop it on a battery and check again with the meter, should drop about 4v approx when loaded if thats the case then its fine.
Yes... the 12V and USB ports should be limited to 12V and 5V respectively - you aren't going to charge a 12V battery by feeding in 12V from solar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scallops
Thanks. I calculate that we use about 24-28Ah/day when we camp. That is for my total consumption from my 40 litre Engel and a 12V Versa light.
This 40W system, as per my last calculation, will generate about 14Ah/day, so effectively I am adding 50% to the length of time I can camp on my setup.
And that is just what I was looking for.
Another question - do all controllers have some diode setup? I'm wondering if I can leave the panels connected to the battery after dark?
Yes they do or should have, stops the battery draining back into the panel overnight and sending it flat.
One of our electronics engineers opened the controller at my request - the help desk doesn't know if there is diode protection or any preventative overcharging circuitry. The result is there isn't, so I'm buying one of these - we have plenty of 18 guage wire, fuses etc to finish an improved setup.....
12V 5A Battery Charging Regulator for Solar Panels - Jaycar Electronics
Well thats a shame it doesn't but for another 30 bucks I suppose its not to bad
For less than $3 at Jaycar you can buy a "heavy duty" Zener diode... cut one of the cables between the battery and controller, re-solder the cable either side of the diode (correct direction for current flow) , cover with heat shrink tubing. No more reverse flow.... not exactly 'elegant' but it should do the job...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
I find it highly unlikely that the controller supplied with the panels would allow a battery to be discharged (power the panels) in low/no light with the panels connected - even the real cheapies have this functionality.
I would be connecting the controller to a battery without the panels connected and checking whether the there is power from the batteries through the controller.
Garry
The redraw issue is very negligable according to my colleague - wouldn't discharge the battery no, but it does not have diodes.....But the lack of smart charging capability - turning to trickle by detecting when the battery is fully charged was what I really wanted to fix, because of how I intend to use it.
I'll post up some picks of my modified setup once I have it done.
Exactly like this one I have connected to mine,Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoges
Attachment 82315
