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This explanation of a system seems to make sense, and suggests Weeds calculation of 160w panel and 110 amp battery are spot on. Disco Mick and Weeds concur on AGM. An ARK battery box sounds good. My Aulro designed solar system is nearly fully planned. Does anyone have an opinion on which 160watt solar panel and why? The one I provided a link to in an earlier post looks ok to me.
Don.
I run a Korr Lighting 165W folding panel. Only has a PWM reg, not an MPPT, but even after a big night on the battery (all my lights, stereo, in/out of fridge 100 times) I'm always well and truly charged by lunch. Comes in a half decent carry bag with a huge length of cable with andersons at both ends. Its frame is very sturdy but the latches to hold it shut (in the folded up position) are obviously cheap.
One day I'll treat it to some new latches and a decent MPPT reg.
I ordered an AGM through the local tractor bloke. The battery delivery man over-ruled me and provided a Calcium-Calcium marine type, claiming that's the type I need. I can change it to what I originally ordered, but what do the experts think? which is best for 160W solar panel?
I ordered an AGM through the local tractor bloke. The battery delivery man over-ruled me and provided a Calcium-Calcium marine type, claiming that's the type I need. I can change it to what I originally ordered, but what do the experts think? which is best for 160W solar panel?
Don.
If it's only being used for your camping loads, then a deep cycle battery is your best bet. The one shown in the picture Looks like a hybrid cranking/deep cycle which is fine, but maybe just a bit of a compromise between a true deep cycle or a true cranking battery, but it will work fine.
I usually run 2 x 12v fridges a 40l Primus at -10C as a freezer and an 80l Engel at -2C for the beer and food.
I have 2x Ark battery boxes with 110AH deep cell's with a 160W and a 120W solar panels that have absolutely NO problems keeping the power up to the fridges, lights, charging devices and even running 12v fans all night.
The batteries, Battery boxes and solar panels are pretty expensive to put together in the first place But they are Definitely worth getting.
I used to use a genset for power and I have only been using the solar setup for the last 3 years and I do still take a small 2KVA inverter with me "Just in Case" But I have rarely had to fire up the genset because the solar is just so reliable.
Just went through this myself..
Now running:
Victron MPPT 75/15 with BT
Victron 30a Charger - for when on 240v
2x 120w panels
2x 100ah AGM
Even in the poor weather we are having around here at the moment - What does the sun look like [emoji41] - the system is well and truly above and beyond demand..
Demand being:
Water pump - shower, kitchen water etc
56l dual fridge - 2c fridge/-10c freezer side
All lighting (LED)
Stereo
TV and Media Player
Fan
Mrs Tombies 12v electric blanket - handy to take the chill off at the moment.
Best thing I've done to the camper I reckon [emoji6]
My opinion is you can stress about the minute details of choosing one panel versus another, or just go for something reasonable. I bought one from Jaycar and another off ebay and both seem fine. The daughter just bought one of the 4WD Supercentre 160 watt panels and it works fine. Truthfully, solar panels are a mature technology now so most are fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don 130
Normal regulators do a good job.
As for batteries, I think AGMs are the best value now, but prices of lithiums are falling rapidly so in a couple of years they will be the way to go.
Don't sweat it too much.
A question from a newbie. My simple understanding of of amperage is that amps equals watts divided by volts. Therefore a 180w panel at 12 volts would require a controller capable of handling around 12 amps, but most of the systems I see on Ebay seem to be 160w or 180w systems with only 10 amps. I ask this as a relative said he was having problems running his fridge on 12v. It was running ok on 24v. When I had a look at his 12v power wire, it was showing ~18v. When he looked at his 12v batterty, it was cooked. This was a 240w panels setup with only a 15 amp controller - which seemed to have died under the excess amperage. Am is missing something?
Tom.
Solar panel power ratings are usually only achieved at 25C cell temperature and an output voltage much higher than 12 volts. A typical solar panel output graph looks like this one:Quote:
Originally Posted by BathurstTom
Attachment 123419
A standard regulator reduces the voltage but does not increase the current flow to the battery. So a 10A regulator should in theory cope but of course it all depends on the quality of the regulator. To increase the current to the battery you need a MPPT (maximum power point tracking) regulator. Again, quality is everything.
