Printable View
Oh I see ... well in that case the charger method will work ...as long as the ingoing amps is more than the outgoing amps.Quote:
Originally Posted by catch-22
Maybe the person you're borrowing the fridge from has the 240V external power pack for it ?
[quote=waynep;825366]Oh I see ... well in that case the charger method will work ...as long as the ingoing amps is more than the outgoing amps.Quote:
Originally Posted by catch-22
Maybe the person you're borrowing the fridge from has the 240V external power pack for it ?[/quote]
This would be the best option.
Baz.
I agree, it would be....but either it is an older model and it is not an option or he just doesn't have the module....not sure which.
All the older Waecos had an optional external 240V power pack. Most people would have bought one so they could run the fridge indoors.
Later models had integrated 240V inside the firdge.
In fact you don't need to use a Waeco Power Pack. Any REGULATED/FILTERED 240V-12VDC power supply that supplies enough amps would do. ( I think the genuine Waeco ones are specified at 5 or 10 amps ). A standard battery charger is not normally regulated or filtered to the required extent, so needs to be connected to the battery which essentially does that job.
So looks like you'll go with the battery charger idea. That'll be fine, it is just a bit of a pain opening the bonnet and connecting the leads every night.
be careful with the low voltage cutout thing...
remember the electronic modules in the td5 powered rovers have a low voltage cut out as well, this is about 10.5v if you have less volts than that at the ECU when its trying to start it wont fire the injectors. If your alarm system see less than that it can also lock out the ECU so it wont start.
If the injectors dont fire.............
IF it were me ID be setting the fridges cut out voltage quite high on a single battery system say 11.5ish volts and if your battery is a couple of years old even higher (11.8-12v.)