Thread: OMG! Here we go.... Which fridge to buy :-)

to an extent it is horses for courses

over the years I have owned all of em at one stage or another. I curently I own a 110lt engle used as a fridge and an 80lt (I think) as a freezer.

All have their good points and their not so good points. I guess the reason why I have tho two mentioned above is because they have withstood my really ungentle treatment.

engle are brilliant but the insulation is to thin trail blazer is brilliant but the insulation is a bit to thick.

Blythe

Originally Posted by waynep

You will be very happy with that choice. It will last you many, many years. The main things to avoid problems are 1) to make sure it is well secured in the vehicle, 2) try not to spill liquids on the control panel part 3) ensure adequate ventilation ( free space )around the compressor grille area. Also ensure you have good thick wires running from your battery to the fridge.

It came with a wiring loom with 2 plugs worth about 110 so I think I will use that.
"RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Kit. The heavy duty CoolPower RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Wiring Kit is highly recommended for replacement of standard vehicle cigarette lighter sockets, which are often inadequate to properly run fridges due to thin wiring and associated voltage drops. Suits all WAECO kompressor fridge/freezers."

Originally Posted by mcrover

Make sure file the reciept away where you will always be able to find it.

They come with a 2 year warrenty and you probably will have to use it (probably for something little) and they are really really picky about having the original reciept.

Hopefully they have fixed the problems of the CF50 model which im having with the controller and the 12v system as they have known about it for a long time.

When mine works I love it, it works great and once stuff is frozen in the bottom I put a bit of foam over the frozen meat at the bottom and put other stuff on top (drinks etc) and the marg etc in the dairy cabninet and it hardly runs to keep everything frozen and cold.

It has (when working properly) run for 3 days in 35 to 40 deg days without driving anywhere and my battery didnt drop below 12v but half the stuff in the bottm was frozen and it was chockers with cans so they hold their temp well.

They are a good fridge but just be aware that you may need to use their warrenty.

It now comes with a 5yr warranty on the compressor & 2 yrs on the electrics (obviously not as reliable as the compressor ) dont worry, i will be filling out the warranty card!!
PS found the link to this power thing.
WAECO mobile solutions
Dave.

sooo treads, have you decided on a fridge

Originally Posted by DI5CO

It came with a wiring loom with 2 plugs worth about 110 so I think I will use that.
"RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Kit. The heavy duty CoolPower RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Wiring Kit is highly recommended for replacement of standard vehicle cigarette lighter sockets, which are often inadequate to properly run fridges due to thin wiring and associated voltage drops. Suits all WAECO kompressor fridge/freezers."

That will be fine - I wired one up in a Prado a few weeks ago - works a treat.

Originally Posted by DI5CO

It came with a wiring loom with 2 plugs worth about 110 so I think I will use that.
"RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Kit. The heavy duty CoolPower RAPS12R-U2 Fridge Power Wiring Kit is highly recommended for replacement of standard vehicle cigarette lighter sockets, which are often inadequate to properly run fridges due to thin wiring and associated voltage drops. Suits all WAECO kompressor fridge/freezers."

I used that kit as well because from reading about the fridge it was clear wiring (or lack of it) was an issue, so far never had a problem.

except the dam bag is garbage.

Originally Posted by mns488

except the dam bag is garbage.

How about this.,

If you use a fridge slide.
Get some 6 mm plywood or customwood and make a box like cover that fits over the fridge with the front and bottom open. Make it about 30mm bigger than the fridge all round. ( with fridge mounted on the slide ). Drills some 25mm holes in the ply where the fridge compressor vents are, and make suitable openings for the handle and power cable at the back.
Line the inside of this box with 25mm thick foam rubber or close to it ( there are some cheap sleeping mats which have a thick backing you can contact glue to the ply ). Fit some L brackets to the bottom of the box. Cut foam away from the vents and openings
Fit this box over your fridge slide and bolt/screw it to your base. Fiddle around so the fridge slides in and out of the box easily. It should just contact the foam as it slides.
The fridge then slides in and out of this insulated box. It means you don't need to open the bloody insulated cover all the time. Also means you can stack stuff on top of and against the sides of the box ( except where the vents are ) and not worry about damaging the fridge. And it holds the fridge securely in place and provides shock absorption on rough tracks.

This is what I did ( well sort of, not quite as fancy as above ) so far works very well.

OK so the front face is not insulated, but If you wanted you could make a door or flap for the front and keep all sides insulated. I've not found it necessary.

Far better than the bags anyday.

Originally Posted by waynep

How about this.,

If you use a fridge slide.
Get some 6 mm plywood or customwood and make a box like cover that fits over the fridge with the front and bottom open. Make it about 30mm bigger than the fridge all round. ( with fridge mounted on the slide ). Drills some 25mm holes in the ply where the fridge compressor vents are, and make suitable openings for the handle and power cable at the back.
Line the inside of this box with 25mm thick foam rubber or close to it ( there are some cheap sleeping mats which have a thick backing you can contact glue to the ply ). Fit some L brackets to the bottom of the box. Cut foam away from the vents and openings
Fit this box over your fridge slide and bolt/screw it to your base. Fiddle around so the fridge slides in and out of the box easily. It should just contact the foam as it slides.
The fridge then slides in and out of this insulated box. It means you don't need to open the bloody insulated cover all the time. Also means you can stack stuff on top of and against the sides of the box ( except where the vents are ) and not worry about damaging the fridge. And it holds the fridge securely in place and provides shock absorption on rough tracks.

This is what I did ( well sort of, not quite as fancy as above ) so far works very well.

OK so the front face is not insulated, but If you wanted you could make a door or flap for the front and keep all sides insulated. I've not found it necessary.

Far better than the bags anyday.

i've seen your setup and its good. If i ever get around to putting a shelf system in i'll incorporate that. In the short term i'm getting someone to re-do the zip.