Thread: RRC 93 electrics :(

I fitted a 3.5 to a 1993 SE with 14cux etc a while back, for the same reasons. The owner was quite happy as it was way cheaper and readily available than a 3.9 at that stage. The vehicle goes well, suprisingly only slightly less torquey and he even tows with it.
If you drive a 1992/93 D1, the 14cux 3.5's aren't all that sluggish really. In fact as a manual go quite well.

I would do it if it means having your beloved RRC back on the road again

I agree the 3.5 is a far more robust engine, and in 9.35:1 Hicomp guise is quite a torquey little thing.

JC

So the earlier 3.5 disco's had the 14cux? This would mean a straight swap? mmmm a 5 speed manual would be a nice thing in the 93 me thinks I find that the zf changes too early and makes it sluggish. When I manually go through the gears she comes to life and goes quite well.

So the earlier 3.5 disco's had the 14cux? This would mean a straight swap? mmmm a 5 speed manual would be a nice thing in the 93 me thinks I find that the zf changes too early and makes it sluggish. When I manually go through the gears she comes to life and goes quite well.

The auto change point is controlled by the kickdown cable which you will find at the throttle linkage. To increase change speed simply lengthen the cable , ie move the small stop "slug" outward from the end of the cable about 5MM. It will still change out of first early as this is a design feature to save fuel.
With regard to motors, it is undoubtedly true that the 3.5 is more robust then the 3.9 , but IMHO unless a 3.9 is overheated at some time or let to run at 100C plus regularly it should be robust. Mine has now done 195KK.
You will really notice the loss of torque in a heavy vehicle like a RRC and probably use more fuel as you will always be revving higher on hills. I can recall following a mate in a 3.5 on the road to Lithgow and I was constantly backing off behind him as he lost speed on hills.

I really do not buy the "run lean" scenario as on light throttle the temps in the combustion chamber would be low as the density of the mixture is less. This is the trouble with 3.9s/4.0s/4.6 etc coking the exhaust port in city running . Mine has been running Lambda for the last 5 years with no probs and I assure you the mixture is lean except at full throttle where it goes open loop and rich. Maybe this applies to Thor with Motronic as they never leave closed loop .

I think some of the problems may be caused by a long period of hot running caused by blocked radiators with no owner knowledge, as the temp gauge doesn't start to move until about 105C. And maybe in combination with head gaskets that may leak for years . IMHO head gaskets on 3.9 should be changed every 100K or so. Mine are leaking at the block ends after 100K since the last change although all compressions are spot on.

In summary , it depends on what you want from the car. A 3.5 and manual with I presume LT230 will be a much less "refined" car than a 3.9 with auto and viscous BW case, and any 3.5/manual/LT230 you can get now will be old old old and maybe need rebuilds before use anyway.
Regards Philip A

I guess the rangie is going to be used for weekend camping, beach cruising, not a daily driver. I heard the high comp 3.5 is not much different to the 3.9. In saying this I can get a pretty cheap used 3.5 and freshen it up with rings bearings and cam. I'll stick with the auto until something major happens and maybe consider an r380. I'm not power hungry, I guess I just want a real robust engine that wont mind a bit of a thrashing when cruising through soft sand etc and the manual would be more fun.

Originally Posted by milld

Also wondering how many km's these autos will go for if maintained. It has 255k on the clock, and a good service history.

These ZFs seem to last well with routine servicing. Mine has 250K on it now and it still shifts and drives like new and the tranny fluid is sweet as so there is heaps of life left in it. I know another Classic which has covered 340K and driving it you couldn't tell that it has a heap of kays under its belt. Driven sensibly and routinely serviced their life span seems to be huge.

I have kept my seat switches alive by giving them a proper clean out once every 18 months or so when they start playing up.
It is not that hard to do, there is a great guide here:
Seat Switch Reconditioning

Whatever you do, take them apart over a container so the little ball bearings don't fly off everywhere.
You will need some contact cleaner and some tweezers, (I use the tool pictured with great results) , and a magnetic screwdriver to pick up the tiny bearings.
It takes a bit of patience, and a bit scary when you first open it up with bearings falling everywhere, but when you have a look it all goes back together with a bearing at each end of the switch workings. Once it is all cleaned up and put back together it should work perfectly. I would allow about an hour for each switch so you don't try to rush it.
A good job you can do inside on a cold winters day!
Hope this helps, Cheers, Pete.

I know why my ABS and ETC light stays on. When I took the front drivers side wheel off I found a black 2 prong plug thingy hanging on its own and and an earth wire cut from the disc brake. the plug has been damaged and smashed up. There are replacement sensor on ebay for like 60 bucks but I still don't no where that black plug is suppose to plug in to. any ideas?