Thread: Classic front prop shaft

Never had an issue with only 2" over stock height. The radius arms bind up before the uni locks up.

Do things come to mind...... Sure your uni joints running on the same plane.... (Must line up on the slip spline)
Have you got caster correction bushes fitted? (They drop the diff angle and can case issues with the prop shaft.)

Haven't corrected the castor yet so no extra angle due to that, the car did sit idle for 10+ years so I'm wondering if this is just one more dried out bearing that would have gone whether i had fitted the springs or not. From what you say it certainly looks like it's worth changing the uni joints as a first fix rather than hundreds of dollars on alternative shafts.
The joints are offset to each other slightly but I checked my 110 and they are as well. I remember someone writing about this as it looked odd when I first spotted it.

Cheers for your help

Mark

Originally Posted by markate

wondering if this is just one more dried out bearing that would have gone whether i had fitted the springs or not.

I would check for Seized unis


.... Also ... What is the condition of the tyres ... IE ... Tread depth & are they new / old / the same / odd brands ....

Cheers
Mike

A greasable DC shaft changeover is not cheap. If your spanner handy buy a clapped out D2 shaft, get some greasable uni's from Hardy Spicer and do the changeover yourself. There are some instuctions floating around on the web for part # and instructions. A new larger D2 outpuit flange is <$100 I think. DC shafts are not offset to each other or "phased" like single shafts.

By the way don't forget to reroute your AC condenstate line (that drips in front of singe uni) as it will be dripping on the DC. If you did this mod a new non-greasable set up will probably go the distance.