Tyre fitting

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Originally Posted by rovercare

But the balancing machine won't tell you any measurements except weight required to balance the wheel alone

Just ask them to balance the rims

When tyres are well out, its usually good to spin the tyre 180 degrees on the rim, cause if you have the out of balance bits on the same spot, you get excessive weights

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Cheers ... I'm doing all of the above as you've described it

I realise the balancing machine can't measure ... It's just a way to record what you see "visually" ... If the rim is indeed out ... Good to know which one / how bad ... so that it can go to the rim repairers later on ... Rim repairers cost heaps

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Originally Posted by rovercare

35" Simex centipedes balance up better than that:eek:

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The tyres are a 30.8" A/T Japan brand .... So i'm fairly taken back too :confused:

Everyone is correct. Everything has a price and a place.

If you went to the Rolls Royce, Lambo or Ferrari dealer, they would smile, offer you a Latte and may actually do as you ask. After that, they would charge you over the top for it!

Whether they would do it for a twice superseded Range Rover - I seriously doubt it.

The only way it will be done for you is if you do it yourself, having the rims checked and repaired at a specialist wheel repairer, delivering the true'd and balanced rims to the tyre dealer and re-fitting the tyred and balanced wheels onto your car yourself. Remember the next time you hit a pot hole off road everything will be undone.

I note that your card ignored the spare tyre?

You are quite correct in the explanation that you gave... and I am paying the extra $ for the re-balance of tyres and the rims ... As I said before ... If I have to get the rims repaired ..I'ld like to know which one ;)



However, the bit that has me concerned is .... (Just like the Towball thread / Didn't know till it happened) ... Some tyre shops using rattle guns are not just over-stressing the studs .. but getting that nut done up to the rattle gun's full capacity and well beyond the limit's of the design of the stud

Hate to see what happens when the studs sheer off under heavy loads or braking :(

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

I note that your card ignored the spare tyre?

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That's because it's a steel rim ... :Thump:


Cheers
Mike

However, the bit that has me concerned is .... (Just like the Towball thread / Didn't know till it happened) ... Some tyre shops using rattle guns are not just over-stressing the studs .. but getting that nut done up to the rattle gun's full capacity and well beyond the limit's of the design of the stud

Hate to see what happens when the studs sheer off under heavy loads or braking :(


Rangy and later landy wheel studs are incredibly strong. The only damage I have seen done to them is from either not doing the nuts up tight enough and them coming undone or cross threading. I had to remove a customers wheel on a disco, the nuts were that tight I had a 5' pipe on a 3/4 breaker bar and really had to heave on them! No thread stretching on any of the studs, I checked them with a thread guage. Spider wheels on large trucks use 3/4" studs and only 6 of them per wheel, Rangy and landy's have 5 x 5/8" studs and the car only weighs 2 ton. A little over engineered.



That's because it's a steel rim ... :Thump:


Cheers
Mike[/QUOTE]

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Rim repairers cost heaps

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I found Summerfield Engineering very cheap for rim mods/repairs. About half the price of the equivalent in Brisbane (Race Engineering).

But if they are standard rims new ones shouldn't be worth much.

I have NEVER seen a snapped stud on a 110/D1/RRC. All I have seen are some stripped stud holes on Series IIs (which have smaller diameter screw-in studs).