Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: 3.5 V8 High comp or Low comp?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,149
    Total Downloaded
    16.28 MB

    3.5 V8 High comp or Low comp?

    Slowly but surely im getting my 84 classic back to daily driver status and the biggest hurdle at the moment is finding another 3.5 as the unit that is in at the moment is way down on comp and below firing on 3 of the 8 cylinders tested.

    So for now im looking for a carburettor model and ive found a few with all accessories as my engine has a 2 bbl stromburg down draught currently.

    One engine in particular is from an older 2 door and is a higher compression engine obviously before the greenies got their hooks into our lives too much and im wondering what differences id see between a good low comp and a good high comp 3.5 bearing in mind that this is in an Auto. (Torqueflite)

    Clues?

    Cheers,
    Tony

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,169
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it is a high compression from a 2door, it will be from an 81-85 and originally had air injection. I had one in my 77. These were an interim motor to meet Australian leaded fuel emission standards. Most cars of that era were slugs.
    I can assure you these were the worst 3.5 made from a performanc epoint of view as the cam was a very poor one.
    I later drove a 2 door with a fresh low comp and it killed my high comp 3.5.

    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    3960
    Posts
    1,161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    G `day Tony .

    your 84 was std 9.35:1 any 2door std won`t be any higher .

    If its 10:1 it`s from a Rover car and you would need to check which heads it wears because if std , the valves are smaller than your 84 but would still run ok .

    Depending what it is it may also have a smaller oil pump but as long as it pumps it would be ok .

    If you 84 is stamped 8.13:1 it`s not the std engine .

    What are the stamped Comp ratios and the engine # prefixes of yours and the one or ones your looking at , if you`d like to know where they originated or just the engine number prefix will tell ?



    Peter

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,169
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just to elaborate a bit, The only High comp engines in Range Rovers were 9.35:1 as Peter said.

    If you are looking at buying a second hand engine then avoid 9.35:1 RRC engines as they were the worst performers.

    If you are BUILDING a 3.5, hi comp is a good idea , up to a point as each 1 in comp ratio is supposedly worth 10% in fuel economy,so a 9.35 "should" be 10% roughly more economical..
    However many reports suggest that RV8s need 98 octane to run a 9.35.1 ratio and that more than wipes out any economy gain.

    If I were to rebuild my 3.9 , I will put in hi-comp pistons but grind volume from the combustion chambers to reduce the compression to under 9:1.to use either E10 94 or hopefully 91.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Go with a 9.35 motor if you can find one and fit a decent cam. What you lose cost-wise using premium fuel you gain in range and available power. I have a 9.35 motor from a SD1 in my ute and it sings nicely, especially on gas.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Comp all the way, waste of time using 8.13:1 pistons Build yourself a nice EFI cammed 9.35:1 long engine, small valves and ports will give great low down torque. make sure you play with carb needle profiles because slightly richer can be the difference between good bottom end and rubbish bottom end. The best outcome is to use some genuine SU carbs from a P6B Rover or early 110, these will give you really good performance when compared to the 175CD Strombergs. Don't skimp on a decent distributor either, your original '84 should be electrnic, if not, fit one.

    JC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose SA
    Posts
    2,838
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a set of 9.35:1 20 Thou Oversize if you need them all rings and pistons never used.
    Bought them and never used them

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,149
    Total Downloaded
    16.28 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by PLR View Post
    G `day Tony .

    your 84 was std 9.35:1 any 2door std won`t be any higher .

    If its 10:1 it`s from a Rover car and you would need to check which heads it wears because if std , the valves are smaller than your 84 but would still run ok .

    Depending what it is it may also have a smaller oil pump but as long as it pumps it would be ok .

    If you 84 is stamped 8.13:1 it`s not the std engine .

    What are the stamped Comp ratios and the engine # prefixes of yours and the one or ones your looking at , if you`d like to know where they originated or just the engine number prefix will tell ?



    Peter
    Peter I will grab the comp and engine number in the morning some time and publish them but im pretty sure its an 8.13:1 stamped although currently it is much much lower.

    I seem to recal finding a list of engine numbers and applications on an english web site years ago and it matched up with my car and chassis number range but we will see what transpires in the morning.

    Id love to rebuild the engine that's in the vehicle now and bought an injected 3.5 5 years ago to replace the original engine while it was being rebuilt but sadly it had been mucked around with and the bottom end was all loose and had been apart and not properly put back together.

    So I sent the block to be tidied up and never saw it again as the shop shut up and my efforts to retrieve the block came to nothing.

    Id do it myself but its been 20 years since I built an engine and im a bit scared I'll bugger it up which was why I went looking at a Chrysler 6 or SB 8 transplant.

    Thing is this engine has been so damned good although underpowered and these Rover 8's seem to rev well.

    Indecisions a bugger.

    Tony

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Just to elaborate a bit, The only High comp engines in Range Rovers were 9.35:1 as Peter said.

    If you are looking at buying a second hand engine then avoid 9.35:1 RRC engines as they were the worst performers.

    If you are BUILDING a 3.5, hi comp is a good idea , up to a point as each 1 in comp ratio is supposedly worth 10% in fuel economy,so a 9.35 "should" be 10% roughly more economical..
    However many reports suggest that RV8s need 98 octane to run a 9.35.1 ratio and that more than wipes out any economy gain.

    If I were to rebuild my 3.9 , I will put in hi-comp pistons but grind volume from the combustion chambers to reduce the compression to under 9:1.to use either E10 94 or hopefully 91.
    Regards Philip A
    Hi Philip,

    Fuel and Rangies seems to be a funny thing and i have a log book I'll check in the morning but the old girl seemed to run really well on BP Ult 98 and equally well on E10 95, put 91 octane in her and she ran ok ish but really chewed through the juice which is understandable considering her compression is so low due to extreme wear.

    She does however have a Stromberg 2 bbl downdraught instead of the zeniths and id probably grab 2 SUs from a Jag if I refitted twins and get them rebuilt to suit.

    Economy isnt a huge issue and I went so far as to remove the LPG system fitted shortly after buying the old girl 10 odd years ago.

    Numbers etc to come in the AM tomorrow.

    Cheers,
    Tony

  9. #9
    Squigs Guest
    Gday phillip I have just purchased a 76 2 Door Rangy non detox 3.5 what advise can you give me on making this motor perform better it has extractors already a non standard cam bought from rover tech standard carbys standard ignition this engine drinks fuel lacks power. prevoius ford v8 owner now wont to learn the v8 rover stuff by the way i am a mechanic of 30 yrs exp..cheeers Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,169
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Gday phillip I have just purchased a 76 2 Door Rangy non detox 3.5 what advise can you give me on making this motor perform better it has extractors already a non standard cam bought from rover tech standard carbys standard ignition this engine drinks fuel lacks power. prevoius ford v8 owner now wont to learn the v8 rover stuff by the way i am a mechanic of 30 yrs exp..cheeers Mike
    Well this is a hard one to answer.
    If you want torque then bigger capacity is really the only answer.

    I often see posts on this forum that people are disappointed with aftermarket cams. I would (and just recently did in my injected 3.9 ) only fit a 3.9 injection cam as my research showed that even the mildest aftermarket cam was too radical for the reality of a 3.5 in almost 2tonnes.

    You can gain about 7% modifying the heads as the exhaust ports are small and in many the casting so poor its a wonder anything gets through. I spent most time on the exhaust port bowls.

    Extractors IMHO do not anything but noise and leaks to a 3.5. I had extractors on my 77 when I bought it , and got annoyed with the leaks. I was able to buy a complete injection exhaust system and it performed better.
    You can fit larger carbs with 2inch SUs a possibility, but Rover tried them and rejected them early on as they cut down low rev torque.( and SU apparently couldn't supply enough). Some here fit Rochester carbs, but IMHO they would be very overcarbed.

    My experience with particularly a fresh engine is that they are quite perky. they just get weaker over time as it is common with the old ones for head gaskets to leak into the valley., valves to leak etc etc .

    My response to your comment on drinking is that it is all relative . Pushing 2tonnes and a brick ****house shape is never going to be fast or economical. Mine only ever got about 13.5L per100KM highway at its best with injection and Fairey overdrive. They are fast and economical in a TR8 or SD1 Vitesse.
    So , if you do not think it is overcapitalising, the best bang for the buck is a 4.6., or even a Leyland 4.4 as it is actually legal in a 76. I think a 4.4 with nice heads and a 3.9 cam would be a really nice goer, but you may then like an overdrive.
    Regards Philip A

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!