Thread: 93 classic central locking issue

Richard, check that the drivers or passenger door lock button isn't sticking up slightly, because they need to be fully DOWN when locking the vehicle or the microswitch won't trigger, and the ECU thinks the vehicle has a door open etc. This is a form of 'mislock' feature with the early systems. D2 and Defender etc just beep the horn when 'mislocked'.

Mine did all this until I replaced the lazy passenger side front door actuator.


JC

Hey where is the ecu for the central locking? That's one thing way down on the list of things to fix. I get nothing on mine, lights up on the fob but nothing happens.

I take the easy way out with my '95 Classic... use the key ONLY... Fobs are safely tucked up far away where they'll sit till I sell it. - Had too many false alarms from stowaway spiders and mooching mozzies.
Besides, if the fob dies when its locked up..... the key will not unlock/disarm, as far as I know.

I have the same problem with mine due to a broken Door lock surround preventing the button from fully dropping into its correct position to engage the actuator thingymjig whatever its called that sends the message to the other doors to lock/unlock.

Mine also automatically locks/unlocks and I have found a 'sweet spot' on the dash to the right of the steering cowl and when I thump this with the palm of my hand the door locks magically do the reverse ! I think this one might be Lucas at work again......

The new door lock surround is waiting to be fitted.

Even when I use a key, or the doorlock on the drivers side, the other locks do nothing, so I've got nothing working except locking the doors manually. Doesn't really bother me though but I'm a little curious as to what it could be

So I found this morning that the passenger side front door lock isn't locking all the way, causing the "error code" to happen. Will have to investigate futher....

While there sounds to something wrong with your master lock, try just spraying lots of WD40 down all the lock buttons. The actuators get filled with dust over time, and the buttons themselves get sticky.
Regards Philip A

Both front door lock actuators are masters - simply piggy backed on the lock mechanism. Locking using the remote, or the key, causes the actuator(s) to pull the sill buttons down and in doing so isolates the door handles from the lock.

The two most common faults are dirt and crap in the sill button and lock mechanism; and a broken tension spring in the lock. Both issues cause the sill button to not move over it's range.

To clean the lock the only effective way is to remove the door card and even then it'll be a bit hit and miss with the WD40. Sill button and the other bits are a lot easier to access and I suggest white lithium grease.

The broken tension spring is very common and affects all the door locks. Symptons are that the sill button drops a couple of mm so you the door remains locked even though it looks unlocked. When you lock/unlock the door with the key or remote the one of the master actuators (L&R Front Doors) get confused and the system can cycle.
Richard - from your last comment I reckon you start with the passenger side door lock

There's a lot on the forum regarding that %&^% spring! http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...placement.html is a good thread which deals with a D1 rear door - fronts are way fiddlier - it took me a day to do mine...
The spring is tiny - smaller than a 'bout 8mm diameter and handed. You can find them on UK ebay reguarly for a few dollars, and a lot cheaper than new door locks.

Milld - The lock ecu is located behind the lower dash panel on the right of the steering column. Pre '93 a simple central locking ecu - '93 on replaced by alarm ecu which also controls central locking.

Chris