MIsfiring ,too rich mixture, Need help

Did this just start suddenly or has it been getting worse for a while?
Are you sure the firing order of the spark plugs leads is right?

Also check inside the distributor cap for cracks or tracking I would replace if its done a few miles as not expensive. Be very carefull if trying to pull the rotor button off as they stick and the whole distributor shaft comes apart.

If sparks are tracking down the outside of a new spark plug that is not a good sign.

I guess you have checked te air cleaner for restrictions and that the flapper in the air flow meter moves smothly.

Thanks Peter for that indepth reply.
I have changed out the air filter and the intake is not sucking flat.
I haven't cleaned the flame trap but will do that next and am running out of the easy check items that do not require special gauges and greater knowledge. I will keep exploring and report back .
It also is very hesitant to rev up with the throttle being opened but will after a while if you keep the throttle at that position. It has no power when under load so driving it to a specialist is not yet an option unless towed.

Try either disconnecting either the wiring or clamping the fuel hose to the cold start injector. It lives high up on the DS of the inlet manifold and is supposed to squirt extra fuel for cold starts. I suspect I have seen faulty ones, was a great while ago so can't remember details.

I'll disconnect cold ctart tonight and clean flame trap and let you know of any progress.
Thanks for all the advise guys.
By the way, just to top things off, whilst running it in V8 super car mode the manifold on 2 an 4 cylinders was red hot and to a lesser extent so was 6 and 8 and noticed that the heat had melted the insulation off the main power lead to the starter motor and also off the main ground lead off the starter that runs along the fire wall. Has not effected starting ability and wondered if there is such a thing as heat protective insulative tape I could wrap these up in rather than replace.

G`day ,

i doubt if you looked at those 2 things you found anything ,

sounds as if there may be more than one thing going on , just running overly rich shouldn`t give it a super car look , so there may also be an ignition problem .

If you can put a timing light on it and see what is happening .
If the mech advance is seized the light will tell as in it won`t move with revs from idle .
If the amp is playing the light will also show , as in allover the boat , both could give the super car thing .

Another option or 2 for the super car thing may be the a fault in the overrun relay and or vacuum switch .

There should be a relay mounted on the airflow meter , it cuts the fuel off to the injectors on overrun , eg , under high vacuum , give a big rev and let the throttle go or down hill with throttle off ETC .

It is switched by a vacuum switch which should be mounted pretty much under the fuel regulator .

Check the pipe work and wire/s to both and also check any and all earths you can find , possibly 1 at the back of the pass side head would be my suggestion .

Im not sure if i`m only over complicating things with too many options .

When it misses does it seem like it`s stumbling and does it actually backfire or just pop , throttle off ?

cleaned out flame trap, no change. disconnected cold start, no change. Car always kicks over first time no problems cold or hot, just runs like an old chugging tractor.
Will try and source a 2nd hand fuel regulator and swap it out and see if that helps the equation and will get a timing light to check other areas as still think the poor running is a spark issue.

thanks plr I also feel there is a spark problem and will check out your suggestions and let you know

G`day ,
you could try turning the engine over with the dist cap off and holding the coil lead about 3mm off the rotor arm , if there is any spark at all this will be the problem . If you think it may bite hold the lead with some insulated pliers ETC . At the same time you can move the rotor as in turn it , it should have some movement with resistance and want to spring back , this checks the mech advance is free .

As Bundy suggests if the rotor hasn`t been off in a while be careful not to upset the mech advance by pulling up to hard .
If it has to come off and won`t , by carefully running a drill bit down from the top it should come easily just use something , cloth , paper, etc to catch the rubbish or if you are careful and put grease on the drill bit , that will catch most of the rubbish , just don`t spin the bit very fast . Of coarse doing this destroys the rotor .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeterAllen

thanks plr I also feel there is a spark problem and will check out your suggestions and let you know

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Have you checked the flapper in the airflow meter as suggested?
It has a flap inside that should move (open & Close) It should spring back after you push it open.

I have already taken the dissy cap and rotor arm off and there wasn't a problem but will check if the rotor is earthed as suggested.
I will pull apart Air Flow Meter again and see if I missed something.