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Thanks Bee utey, its a manual gearbox, so are you saying just stick it in 4th and go to it? Thanks for your help on this by the way as I'm not overly confident in getting this replaced without further dramas.
On the manuals I have checked thru (Haynes) they don't quite deliver a fool proof explanation on the process from scratch and assume the reader has a greater understanding and knowledge base than I
4th gear high range handbrake on and the nut should undo no worries, there will be some flexing but that's the way to do it. 1 metre of pipe on the socket handle will make the leverage easier to your hand. Remember the nut needs to be properly tightened when you reinstall the pulley.
Have been advised that the timing cover replacement is off a 77 range rover engine. Is this the same as on an 87 efi? engine or am I looking at a miss match.
There may be differences but it will bolt on. I suggest you unbolt your water pump and take it along when you pick up the timing cover. Other people may be able to give more accurate advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterAllen
G`day ,Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterAllen
as long as the cover is from a RangeRover engine the water pump part will be ok , pretty much till 1993 this part of them is the same but only for the RR maybe not the cars .
The RRs have of the era have 2 different oil pumps and dissy drives .
Knew there was a difference but had to look in a book for figs, the early had 22.2mm gears and the later as yours have 26.6mm .
1976 was the year the 26mm gears were first in use .
This will be the only real place of concern .
If it`s an early cover your gears won`t fit the the oil pump cavity and the thinner gears won`t allow the use of your distributor because of the drive .
If the cover is of the right type , i`d suggest you have a look at the lowest part of the oil pump cavity and check that there are no deep grooves made by the gears rotating , some swirl marks are to be expected .
I`d also suggest you have a good look where the water pump impella rotates and same thing some marking is fine but any alloy rot will make a short term fix of it .
My last suggestion is to get a new gasket for the oil pump cover or be very careful with what you have because the thickness of the gasket is important and a silicon or a cardboard cut gasket may not be best and you will need some petro-gelly to pack in the pump so it will prime .
Thanks PLR and Bee Utey for your assistance.
Will update after the weekend when I have some time to work on it.
Unfortunately the replacement cover didnt matchso I am back to searching for the right replacement cover. Mine has the waterpump quite prominent on the top part of the cover and the one sourced had a smaller pump located on the top part but stll within the main body of the cover. The oil pump is different as well. I will ring the wreckers again and see if he has the right one now that I have mine off. The timing chain seemed pretty tight and seemed to be good with no teeth on the gear missing as far as i can tell. The crankshaft nut removal was relatively easy. God knows if I will recall how to put it all back together but took plenty of photos along the way in some sort of sequence of events. Will update further when I sorce the cover. Put another pickup on the coil and noted no movement in the vacuum advance link arm. Should this move at all and can I test the vacuum advance works without it being connected. Given its linked to the plate of the pickup I assume it should move to some degree. Might take it off and give it a drink of WD 40 and see if it frees up.
Sounds like they gave you a sedan front cover. The water pump is lower on the 3500's
I test vac advance by applying mouth vacuum with a piece of hose, that's enough vacuum to operate the vac diaphragm. Crimp the hose with vacuum applied, see if the actuator returns quickly to the no vacuum position, indicating a leaky diaphragm.
They can't confirm the year but its very similar to the a P38 timing cover but with a hole for the distributor.
I will play around with the vacuum advance tonight but am pretty sure that it has seized up.
Could possibly be a '97 then, ie off a serpentine belt D1 engine. They have the oil pump around the crankshaft.