Thread: Wheel Nuts

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

forget the wheel brace, it will turn into a pretzle at the most inconvenient time.

invest your money in a good 27mm (or 1+1/16th inch) deep reach impact socket, a breaker bar and a torque wrench.

the wheel nuts on those alloys get done up to 100nM

I m not a fan of the locking nut the special socket has a habit of letting go at inconvenient times, I suggest replacing the locking nut

Agreed,

the standard wheel brace is junk to say ther least and it will cost you more for an original than for you to go to supercheap and buy a breaker bar and 27mm socket.

Be warned! A 27mm socket will NOT fit the nuts with stainless steel caps (unless by fit you mean it has to be tapped on with a hammer)

The wheel brace from GaryCLR on ebay is a 27mm & it's super industrial strength (the bar is about 3 quarters of an inch thick!) and would have easily done the job if I could get it over the SS caps! Not worth sending back for a credit due to postage costs.

I had to use a 28mm 6 sided impact type socket, half inch drive with a breaker bar and a length of pipe.

Someone must have had problems before me as 2 of the nuts had warped caps that I had to tap & file down to even fit the 28!

Superquag, LR wheel nuts have been METRIC since about 1960 or Series 2 .
It is really weird but true.
I know this as I spent months sorting out studs for my trailer , as ALKO only do Imperial and I can ASSURE you that a RRC wheel nut does not fit an imperial thread.

Regards Philip A

Spot on PhillipA ,never seen any Range rover ever that had imperial wheel studs.Even the old Aunger/performance/Cheviot after market stuff used 24 mm , which was easily substituted for 15/16 ,but they were still the standard Metric thread.

Originally Posted by geodon

Be warned! A 27mm socket will NOT fit the nuts with stainless steel caps (unless by fit you mean it has to be tapped on with a hammer)

It must be prior damage that has caused the ill fit. 27mm with breaker bar works just perrrfectly on mine. A couple of times here and there I've had to give a nudge with my hand but never a hammer.

Just rotated my six tyres yesterday in actual fact... time for the 2 nearly new BFG AT spares to have a run before they get left behind in the tread stakes.

Cheers. OMV

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Superquag, LR wheel nuts have been METRIC since about 1960 or Series 2 .
It is really weird but true.
I know this as I spent months sorting out studs for my trailer , as ALKO only do Imperial and I can ASSURE you that a RRC wheel nut does not fit an imperial thread.

Regards Philip A

Not going to argue... Not referring to the threads... Just went out now and tried my 1 1/16" SP brand 6-sided impact socket. Fits very snugly, and any slop is between the s/steel dress-plate and the solid head underneath. Some are tighter than others, and these have visible distortion of the tin-plate covers.

This is the size a tyre joint recommended, along with comments on LR's parentage and some reproductive impossibilites. Also they suggested doing up the nuts with a torque wrench, not a battered old rattle gun.

Don't know anything about the thread type or size or race, only that the Imperial socket works well on my wheels, which look the same as in the pics.

. - No reason why the heads cannot be Imperial, and the threads Metric. - Would'nt surprise me at all.

Would be interesting to know what size - and race - they become when the tin is pulled off....

1 1/16" differs from 27mm by 0.0175mm which is as close to nothing to be not noticeable.

Originally Posted by bee utey

1 1/16" differs from 27mm by 0.0175mm which is as close to nothing to be not noticeable.

Exactly

Tin capped sockets take 1 1/16" or 27mm sockets, with a bit of damage they are a bitch, they really are a bad idea