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Thread: Range Rover Classic Headlights?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northern Windowlickersville WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA
    Just a word on the Wipac crystals.
    They have Polycarbonate lenses which I was able to discover after much digging.
    They would probably be unsuitable for me as I run 130/100 bulbs.
    Regards Philip A
    Don't cause me any dramas and I have the same bulbs.

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  2. #32
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    Hmm, I was afraid of yellowing from the heat, but yours are OK? Have you driven much at night since fitting?
    How is the high beam low beam relationship and low beam cutoff?

    Regards Philip A

  3. #33
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    Feb 2008
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    Yeah I've done a bit of night plus dark day headlights on runs.
    You find the yellowing is more from weathering and the like rather than damage from heat output hence why the yellow is always on the outside of the lens.
    There's a few products around now that can polish out the yellow and bring them back up like new.

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  4. #34
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    Mar 2008
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    mmmmm, been an interesting read this thread.

    RE the HID's - I have them.... a kit that is - but with new lenses and housing.

    I was informed that upgrading to HID's and NOT replacing the lenses and housing for HID's to be put in to is where its bad because the lenses still have the spread beam for the old lights.

    While the HID uses a center reflector IN FRONT of the HID globe and reflects the light back on to the main reflector.
    One thing for sure is my HID setup does not blind people - the light beam is very well focused to the ground and even those with small riceburner cars in front don't get HID's filling their car as they point down a fair bit.

    So is this the correct way of doing the HID's??? I hate the DIY ones where I get blinded as well - but there is a correct way as well.

  5. #35
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    Aug 2007
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    Gosnells
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    [QUOTE=LOVEMYRANGIE;1591707]...You find the yellowing is more from weathering and the like rather than damage from heat output hence why the yellow is always on the outside of the lens.
    There's a few products around now that can polish out the yellow and bring them back up like new...
    QUOTE]

    Indeed, even car polish works... - and a new coating needs to be applied to protect against further UV damage.

    Yellowing of Polycarbonate lenses (or headlight covers ) is caused by Ultra-Violet light, the sun being the chief culprit. Halogen bulbs produce a tiny amount and HID's a lot more. This means that using HID's especially higher wattage ones, will result in damage to the INside surface...

    Its not just yellowing, but haziness also comes with UV and heat exposure...

    There's various products and services available to do the job properly, look for a 2 year warranty against yellowing.

    Glass is not physically or optically affected by UV, and has up to 10 percentage points better transmittance. - So much clearer that it can appear to be non-existant, as a friend showed me on his newest spotties... (some years ago).

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northern Windowlickersville WA
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    If anyone is interested, shortly I will have available Narva part number 72002 free form reflector lights in stock. See the Verandah for more details.


    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

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