Thread: 85 RRC head removal

just, but its easier to take it off first, having it off makes returning the pushrods so much easier.

I did one the other day and took the valve gear off, it doesn't take much

If I were to ask very nicely is there any chance you could let me know some tensions for refit? Pretty please

I don't have a manual

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

I did one the other day and took the valve gear off, it doesn't take much

If I were to ask very nicely is there any chance you could let me know some tensions for refit? Pretty please

I don't have a manual

As written in manual;
Cylinder head bolts: lbf ft kgf m
Inner and centre rows (nos 1 to 10) 65 to 70 9.0 to 9.6
outer row (nos 11 to 14) 40 to 45 5.5 to 6.2
Cylinder head bolts 65 to 70 9.0 to 9.6
Rocker shaft bolts 25 to 30 3.5 to 4.0


Unfortunately I'm not sure why there are two listings, one after the other, and/or which engine config (carb or EFI) each is for, any help...?

Forgot to say, be careful when torquing down bolts as I managed to snap off two when I was refitting the water pump, and I hadn't yet reached the 8lb torque setting!

I have to get the scanner set up, then Ill post the cylinder head bolt tightening sequence diagram.

Cheers

Matt

Still cant find the box with the scanner... will be a good job for the weekend!

Anyhow, heads are off and all appears to be in good order (except the blown gasket) so now Im chasing a figure for 'How Flat Is Flat'. I would prefer to not have to bother with skimming however in the interest of future retention of knuckle skin I would like to check if it needs doing.

Cheers

Matt

Just had a pair of 3.9 heads skimmed $100 neat . If you can afford the cost and time it could save doing the whole job again soon .
Had blown a head gasket and once heads were removed a warpage of 2-3 mm front to back was found on both heads . Dont know for sure but I think the heads warp once you undo them as a result of being unevenly heated and superheated in spots especially if engine has been overheated .

I pulled a straight edge over the drivers side head and it's low through the middle by between .005 & .006, is that the sort of difference worth getting flattened or would it be ok to just bolt back on.
I have found that the listed limits for a P38 is 0.004 longitudinally and 0.002 for lateral warp but nothing for a classic carbie model (does the P38 run with composite gaskets?)

Originally Posted by Butts McCool

I pulled a straight edge over the drivers side head and it's low through the middle by between .005 & .006, is that the sort of difference worth getting flattened or would it be ok to just bolt back on.
I have found that the listed limits for a P38 is 0.004 longitudinally and 0.002 for lateral warp but nothing for a classic carbie model (does the P38 run with composite gaskets?)

3.9 run composite gaskets yes

probably need to talk to a machinist about that warp before you go any further .
My machinist told me that the 4thou he took of mine is about the limit for putting your rocker gear back on without causing possible problems .

If you have a 6thou warp then he is probably going to take 8thou off em .