Thread: total cooling system overhaul

heres the thermo fan wiring, im by no means a expert with computers so i cant figger out how to wright on it but ill give you some explanation.

fuses to fans 30A
fuses to switches/relays 15A
4 point star= ignition +12
6point star = coolant temp switch
3 wire switch gives me "on""off""auto"
2 wire switch gives me the option to run fans while ignition is off (incase i overheat again)
5point star = led warning light when the two wire switch is on (dno if ill use it, just a thought, will need a diode or something to work anyway)



any thought/improvements/safty hazerds please feal free to say
cheers, andy

So we're just doing one temp to turn on/off?

A better way to do it is the ford method, with 2 temp switches, a change over relay and 2 standard relays. Essentially you use the change over relay to divert the fans from series to parallel.

http://omgpham.com/mystuff/s15-thermofan.jpg

That is a link to a diagram- ignore the control unit part- the 'dual thermo switch' would be the two switches you use for high and low temp. This setup is much better- as you can use less current and regulate your temps much more efficiently. You can put in whatever switches you want to over-ride or shut down the fans in that circuit.

I am doing almost the same thing with my truck- however I am using a control unit made by flex-a-lite. Uses PWM to vary the speed from 60-100% and has various inputs for a/c, over ride, water crossing etc.

Also, with your waterpump, you can use a later model pump with the thread on viscous coupling to give you some more clearance infront of the engine. I had to do this to fit my shrouded thermo fans.

decent thermos and fan shroud will make a heap of difference mate!

For the hoses... measure the diameter of whatever they go onto, - BOTH ends...

Get a piece of wire and bend it to the shape required.. visit your local Super....p and just go through their hoses till you find one that contains the bends and angles you need.

You will never find a use for the off-cuts if you keep them, but if you chuck 'em....

i know for you lucky and experienced guys with big lifts and diff locks that looks like childes play but it took me and my mate a good two hours to get back up it

mmm, sand
did you try letting your tyres down?
15psi good place to start in sand

the pipe under the inlet manifold goes to the heater. At the rear of the manifold should be two pipes that go through the bulkhead to the heater.

Originally Posted by roverv8

mmm, sand
did you try letting your tyres down?
15psi good place to start in sand

yes , i let them down to 20psi, didnt want to go two low as you can see there is a very sharp right hand turn befour the hill that you have to take fairly fast to get up and as i dont have a spare wheel at the moment i didnt want to run the risk of rolling the tyre off the rim as my bush mechanic skills arnt good enough to get it back on i would think. it was fun after, when i knew i wasnt going to be stuck there for the night but at the time it was a tad worrying. but in the end they both made it up in about the same amount of tryes. even though the patrol had lsd, a much fresher motor, wasnt kicking you out of gear in the transfer box CONSTANTLY and wasnt over heating? haha.

thanks peewee, its obvous now that you say but had me stumped haha,

cheers, andy

I am pretty sure last time I needed thase small hoses for a carby model I used the under manifold hose of a Holden Gemini or Rodeo. It was long, the right diameter and had an unbelivable amount of bends and twist in it. Cheap too.
I just cut it up into what I needed.