Printable View
That looks good.
I filled in those plastic vents as they let a lot of water in, which then sits and rusts away the steel frame where you can't see it. Luckily, I got to that in time, not like the wreck I've got out the back where you can see the rust got out of control.
You might want to check out the top tailgates in England to see if they work out to be cheaper, but at the end of the day you may as well just get the job over with.
Yep, waiting on a reply from island 4x4 for a postage quote.
They've got them (ally upper tailgate kit) for about $220.:cool:
i bought a ally tailgate for mine from a wreck, looks like the origonal glass so maby the someone reframed it with that kit on ebay or one like it, best $50 i ever spent really good quality only problemi have with it is that the gap on each side is abit to big for my likeing, guess i cant complane as atleast it will never rot again.
cheers, andy
Ah, now that's the way to do it, finding the part that someone else has spent the money on and getting it cheap! I'm still looking for the mythical Range Rover that's rusted out but has all sorts of expensive parts on it.
... like a recently re-furbished LT230 for around $150
- To replace my BW viscious coupling...:(
Hmm, flare kits from the UK are all around the AUD$200 mark.
Compared with $700+ locally, I think I can make this work on both counts. :banana::banana::banana:
My next set of tyres are probably going to be 33's, so which flare width does everyone recommend? 50mm or 75mm?
Going off now, to drop some subtle hints to SWMBO. :bat:
Not much to it, really.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
Undo the panels (4x screws down inside edge at tailgate, and 3x 8mm nuts underneath the interior trim of the C/D pillars)
Gently pop off clips on the vent pins, and remove vents. Peel off old vinyl, and remove any residues with thinners and coarse steel wool, not forgetting to clean up the hidden edges (I used the s/s pot scrubber type). Then a final wipedown with thinners and a clean rag.
Roll out vinyl on floor, face down. "trace" around pillar trims, giving a couple of inches extra to allow for folding, and cut out.
*** NOTE *** Keep the orientation of the 2 panels the same when tracing them out, to keep the grain of the vinyl running the same way. Otherwise you may have one panel with up/down stripes, and anoter with left/right stripes. :D
whack on some Gel-grip, Kwikgrip or whatever, to back of vinyl and to the ally pillar cover. Let sit for a few minutes to "tack-off".
Next, grab an assistant and gently stretch the new vinyl over the cover, smoothing it as you go, and pull over the edges.
Using a sharp blade, cut out vent hole, and trim excess from around edges.
And you're pretty much done.:cool:
Just keep an eye on the edges for a while, as they can be prone to peeling away. So you may need to re-apply some glue and push them down again.
hey,Superquaggy,you still want a a good BW Tcase,? still have it attached to good ZF22 if you want as well \
That's the standard tranny in my 95 Vogue RRC ? - Mine's in perfect nick, I think(did a flush/fluid change) at 160k..) 12 months later its on 164K
. -
Very kind of you to offer, Sir, but I've managed to source a 'good' bw case from a LR mechanic. The VC seems to be ok, but will find out for sure when it goes into the Event Horizon. = Soon, health permitting.
If you're interested in selling , PM me with a figure, by itself and/or as a pair, - one can never have too many spare bw's lying around. :p
And yes, my vinyl rear panels are very ordinary in appearance, as is my top tailgate.:mad:
I'd go with 'vinyl' as the original Top Quality/Money No Object Material has lasted 15 years or so.......
Cheers,
James
nice job !Quote:
Originally Posted by d@rk51d3