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Thread: Overheated 94 RRC!!!

  1. #1
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    Overheated 94 RRC!!!

    Hey guys!

    A couple of months ago i was driving my 94 Soft Dash when one of the heater hoses gave way resulting in a badly overheated engine. Bummer I know, but these things happen. I've never had a problem with this car getting hot, so I'm not accustomed to keeping such a close eye on the temp gauge like I did in the old one.

    It still runs quite ok, starts fine and doesn't appear to misfire or even be short on power. It is however letting water into the sump.

    My question is, am I better off repairing the existing engine (including rings/bearings etc to freshen her up), or sourcing a used replacement? Does anyone have experience in how bad the damage is likely to be?

    I've made a few phone calls and think I could replace it for around $1500 including freight, but then obviously I would have little idea about the condition it's in or the km's its done.

    I guess I'd be willing to spend a little more on my engine given that when it's done it would be freshened up, but I'm worried that the heat it has witnessed will have some effect on the integrity of the material, particularly in the head.

    Anyway let me know what you guys think. I'm looking to decide what to do in the next week or two as I'm keen to see the old girl back on the road!

    Thanks!

    Brock.

  2. #2
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    If it is letting water into the sump, you most probably have a slipped sleeve and the block is cracked behind the sleeve
    The only waterways between head and block are at the extreme front and rear, so if it is only a head gasket, this usually causes an external leak.

    In this case you will have to have the engine resleeved with flanged sleeves and it will cost LOTS more than $1500. If you can find a used engine that you KNOW has not been overheated then this will be cheapest. The problem is finding a good used engine.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply Philip.

    Is there any hints to check the liners visually? or will it stand out? I figure it will cost me nothing to dissasemble it and inspect it just to triple check that the liner/s are the problem.

    Assuming it is time for a new engine, how hard is the 4.6 short conversion? would that be an economical conversion in terms of cost for a replacement?

    Thanks again,

    Brock.

  4. #4
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    I've just been through all of this without the catastrophe, and to be blunt I'd buy a changeover engine and leave it at that. I nearly did and regret not doing so. You'd be taking a risk, but my experience is that trying to find a trustworthy machinist is just as risky.

    My 3.9 V8 rebuild has cost over $4,500 and that's with me doing absolutely everything except the flanged liners, crank refurbishment and balancing and head reco. It took 4.5 months to complete outside of normal work hours (and I have a very flexible working environment) and much annoyance with the mob who did the sleeves and heads.

    I have a new motor that drives well but it's in a Disco that I would struggle to sell for more than the cost of the rebuild. I like the outcome from the driver's seat, but now I have the hole in the bank account should really have gone towards a diesel 110.

    If you have coolant in the oil, as PhilipA points out it is most likely coming down the back of one of the liners due to a crack in the block. It's highly unlikely but still possible that it's exchanging fluids through a compromised head gasket.

    Either way I'd say it's a moot point at this stage. It still goes but couldn't be trusted not to fail utterly at the drop of a hat. The 18 year old engine you have will need more than a little spent on it and it needs to be removed from the Rangie to fix or replace.

    The ultimate question is what is the Rangie worth to YOU. Set that figure and make your decisions. Even if you find a used engine I'd recommend changing head gaskets and camshaft. There goes another $500 in parts (and counting)...

  5. #5
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    I forgot to add, the only way to definitively test for a liner or block leak is a pressure test. Block off the coolant ports everywhere and fill with compressed air. Soapy water around all the liners will tell you if and where you have the leak. That's a sump and heads off job, most easily done with the block on a stand.

  6. #6
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    Thats it.. just get a secondhand 3.9 with the usual 3 months warranty. What I would do if mine **** itself. They cost way too much to rebuild.

    Camo
    2004 Black Range Rover L322 Diesel

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    I had a similar issue a few years ago and went the rebuild route also, that way we were able to up spec a few things and I'm happy with the result. Yes it cost a reasonable amount but at least I know the history with the engine. I actually wanted to fit a P76 I had with the hotwire efi but there were several issues in doing this so stayed with the original engine, eg didn't have to go through inspection (mod plate) for change of engine / engine number etc.
    98 Harvey the tractor - 300 tdi Defender Wagon
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    Quote Originally Posted by brockheideman.88 View Post

    Assuming it is time for a new engine, how hard is the 4.6 short conversion? would that be an economical conversion in terms of cost for a replacement?
    I did the 4.6 short motor (top hatted) job for a '94 RRC earlier this year and it cost the owner around $6500 drive in/drive out using his heads/bits as supplied. No other things done by me other than fluids and some small hoses as it had all been done recently by another mechanic chasing water loss.

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    Wow thanks heaps for the input guys! Very much appreciated.

    I thought the 4.6 conversion might be a bit expensive, and by the sounds a rebuild is going to be pretty similar. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love this car, but I'm certainly not going to spend over 5K on it at this point in time. I'd love to restore it completely one day, but not right now......

    I made a couple of calls today and found two engines for a reasonable price, so I think I will end up doing it that way if I go ahead with it.

    She also has a few minor patches of rust coming through in the floor and a couple of smallish oil leaks I'll take the time to fix if i replace the engine, so be on the Lookout for a thread on the progress!

    Thanks again guys!

    Brock.

  10. #10
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    G`day Brock ,

    because of the design it`s unusual for these engines to mix coolant and oil .

    You say it`s running ok and you don`t mention any other faults .

    If it were mine i would first be inspecting the engine oil cooler system which runs through the inside of the radiator right tank .

    Peter

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