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Thread: Jeep owner thinking about crossing over. Advice?

  1. #11
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    The 88 still had the Lucas EFI system, the Bosch system which came out in 89 could be leaned for better economy. The fuel mixture / richness on the factory car being set for the lowest possible denominator.
    89 on with 3.9 also has a Lucas injection but much more modern than the 3.5, and equivalent to Bosch LE jetronic.

    From a spending point of view, a clicking by rockers is most likely a worn cam at 230KK plus, unless a new one has been fitted previously.
    If you can DIY , this is under 1K but will be more if you pay a mechanic.

    Overall I would agree that a cheap Jap commuter is the go.

    On an old RRC you WILL have to spend time and money.It is unrealistic to expect otherwise on a 24 year old car with 230+ but unknown Ks.

    Regards Philip A ( owner of 92 RRC for 12 years with 215KKs)

  2. #12
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    It's silly to commute in an old Range Rover and worry about how much fuel it will use. If that's your main concern, don't buy it.

    If you want a Range Rover that much, get one, and just accept - as we have - that it will need work and will use lots of fuel. Of course, you do realise that if you get a Rangie then it will need a fair bit of sorting out. But you'll own a Range Rover!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  3. #13
    jsp's Avatar
    jsp is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Have you checked it out? I miss my 88, it was my first and probably fav range rover.....

    I would be curious why one spends considerable dosh putting scuba tanks under a classic and then mothballing it right away?

    2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
    and a Nissan Cube............
    South Australia.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsp View Post
    Have you checked it out? I miss my 88, it was my first and probably fav range rover.....

    I would be curious why one spends considerable dosh putting scuba tanks under a classic and then mothballing it right away?
    Yeah, my Dad and I had a look at it a few days ago. Had a quick drive as well. He isn't interested, he said there's nothing too wrong with it, but he is sick of working on cars and it would probably take him years to get around to it. Oh, and there is no tow bar (i am pretty sure the scuba tanks are in the way), which is a bit of a deal breaker for him. I'm still thinking about it, it's only $600 after all. I could spend the next year or so doing little bits and pieces getting it up to rw condition (it doesn't need much). I figure that even if I decided it was impractical for me, I could easily sell it for at least 600. I noticed the tapping had disappeared this time, no unusual noises at all (the transfer case was a bit whiney, but Dad said it sounded like gear whine and not bearings).

    I'm not sure why it was mothballed- I get the feeling the guy who originally had it wasn't short of a bob and was a bit of an automotive hoarder. He also had a r33 skyline which was barely used, which he sold for silly low money (so I was told).

  5. #15
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    At $600 dollars you can't go wrong. You could sell the lpg setup alone for near the asking price. It's a great way to start a range rover relationship. Sounds like reasonable vehicle at a good price.

    Pete

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by discopete View Post
    At $600 dollars you can't go wrong. You could sell the lpg setup alone for near the asking price. It's a great way to start a range rover relationship. Sounds like reasonable vehicle at a good price.

    Pete
    Yep, pretty much what i'm thinking. Even if I got it and changed my mind, I could always sell it for at least as much. And even if I couldn't, $600 isn't the end of the world either. My only fear is that I drove it home and major problems popped up that I couldn't tell from a short test drive. I wouldn't mind spending a couple of grand to get it up to scratch, but if it needed a gearbox rebuild or major engine work that would be bad. I might try and have a test drive tomorrow (my dad had a quick drive, but I was only a passenger). I've already downloaded the rave factory workshop manuals and have been having a bit of a look. I'm a reasonable amateur mechanic when it comes to fluid changes and brakes and stuff (i installed the lift in my Cherokee myself), but I wouldn't be comfortable doing diffs, head gaskets, etc.

  7. #17
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    Plenty of secondhand gearboxes and engines out there. I'm doing similar at the moment. I picked up an 86 model with a stuffed gearbox for a bit less than what you are paying. I then found a good low km box for similar money and will probably get a 3.9 from a disco for similar again. You just have to look around. Hopefully will spend less than $2k for a good vehicle. New parts can be had from the UK reasonably cheap. Research and patience is the key.

    Pete

  8. #18
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    Is it rust-free ? Nice body? interior ? General overall 'niceness' to drive ? - then treat the engine/drivetrain as a 'consumable'...- IMHO they can be...

    If you're really worried about fuel use as a daily driver, find a diesel to drop into it.

    Bottom line is, they can be addictive, and there's no reason why I should be the only mug to overspend on one ! - A new Viscous Coupling and output shaft won't leave me much after $1,000. - So stop worrying about a mere $600.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    Is it rust-free ? Nice body? interior ? General overall 'niceness' to drive ? - then treat the engine/drivetrain as a 'consumable'...- IMHO they can be...

    If you're really worried about fuel use as a daily driver, find a diesel to drop into it.

    Bottom line is, they can be addictive, and there's no reason why I should be the only mug to overspend on one ! - A new Viscous Coupling and output shaft won't leave me much after $1,000. - So stop worrying about a mere $600.
    Yeah, pretty much rust free from what I can see. The upper rear tailgate has a little bit of surface rust and will need to be kept out of the weather as much as possible. Some phosphoric acid and some new paint might help. The body is nice and straight with good paint (needs a polish). The paint on the roof is a bit tired but not too bad. The interior is nice and clean and complete. The wood caps on the doors are sun faded. I would probably remove them, sand them and give them a coat of some sort of varnish. The headliner looks good. Overall niceness to drive? Well I was only a passenger, but it was pretty much familiar old rangie stuff- a bit clunky and a bit of gear whine. The gearshift action seemed pretty agricultural. I'm not actually too concerned about fuel use, I will only be running it on lpg and in the future will not be doing too many km's per week- so while fuel use in L/100kms will be high, my fuel bills won't be too bad. The main thing i'm worried about is having an endless money pit, although Jeeps can have a similar reputation - and i've done alright in terms of maintainance/reliability of my Cherokee.

  10. #20
    jsp's Avatar
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    If its half as good as you describe it then for $600 I think you should tell me where it is and let me take on those big repair bills

    2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
    and a Nissan Cube............
    South Australia.

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