Thread: 1977 suffix D Fuel pouring from Carbs

Thanks all.
Fast learning curve. Inspected again today.Wont fiddle with the carbs (ZS175cd2) untill I get it home.
Found LH exhaust manifold cracked 7/8 way thru. Replace or weld?
Steering Box has large amount of spillage below it. Is that going to need replacing as well?
How well does a '77 3.5 v8 handle unleaded fuel. Previous owner left Lead replacement additive tube in glove box. Do they really do the job or can engine be refurbished to handle E10 unleaded?
I don't think its ever run LPG.
Thanks again for the feedback.
G.

Replace the manifold - much easier than trying to get it welded. Keep the old one because you never know!

The steering box will probably need replacing, which is normal when they get old.

Unleaded is fine with the right ignition timing. Is E10 that ethanol stuff? I don't know much about it but I wouldn't use it. These engines don't seem to like it or that Opal fuel as there's no computer to adjust the mixture should it run too lean and hot.

There are 2 issues when tuning CDs.
1 idle mixture
2 balance
Idle mixture
Dredging the memory.
if you look into the throat of the carby and lift the piston, you should see the top of the mainjet with the needle insidepointing down.
the top of the mainjet should be about level with the top of the surround.
Check both carbies are =.
To then check the mixture slightly raise the piston/ needle with a screwdriver . If the engine speeds up = too rich so wind the mainjet in a little. If it staggers when lifted and resumes idle when dropped that is about right.
Ditto other carb.
The best tool for this is a Gunson Colortune, which AFAIK is still sold in UK. Just like a gas stove yellow flames in the cylinder is rich white lean , blue with yellow flecks juuuust right.

To balance , the best thing to have is a Unisyn, which covers the entry of the carb and registers the vacuum with a bead in a column. If you have good ears , get a tube and listen in each carb just near the piston and get the sucks =.

BTW , before you do anything else, check that the diaphragms of the carbs are not cracked. This other than ****ing out fuel is the main cause of no go or bad go.
If you live anywher enear the central Coast of NSW, I have a Colortune and a Unisyn from times gone by. ( and a needle turner for later Cds)
Regards Philip A.

Thanks for the Carb tips.
Found receipt for clutch kit dated Feb 2012, so its been sitting that long.
Having very serious thoughts about wether to proceed with the buy. Starting price with new clutch kit, $3500.00. When told wont start and fuel coming from carbs, dropped to $2500.00. It would have cost him $980.00 to ship to nearest LR Specialist, 600km away by sea anyway.
Then I found the cracked manifold and steer box leaks, no obvious rust in chassis, but subframe has a few places requiring cut and weld.
New 3bolt box listed at $1500.00 AUS. (4bolt half that, but conversion requires changing hose fittings from imp to metric etc.)
Tyres are good. Large rip 5" long outside centre drivers door. Engine hood has many rust holes, requires replacing. Rear window frame has rust, like to replace with alloy.
Brakes, diffs, Gbox, Trans case, radiator, front swivel hubs, no obvious leaks. Interior looks reasonable.
I like it overall, especially since it is a manual with carbs.
BUT without hearing it run, is it going to be a money pit??????
Any and all feedback much appreciated.
G.

If it has rust in the bonnet, have a look under the rear , especially behind the wheel arches and in the crossmember that goes across in front of the rear bumper. they rust badly here and its a body lift job to fix.
Also look at the area where the floor meets the kick panel in front of each door, by lifting the carpets. some have nothing there.

The other problems are really pretty minor eg carbs, exhaust manifold.
Now if you were in UK , you would break out the welder but if it has lots of rust in OZ, just walk away.

Regards Philip A

IF you want to change to a very reliable and more economical carby setup, years ago I did this with a couple 3.5's and 4.4's. Change to a single Weber DGAS 38mm or another similar, I think DGAV-40mm carb.
These proved much more reliable, easy starting, economical than any Holley, SU swap, and definitely the std twin CD's.
They were on old Capri V6's in Oz, so they are getting a bit rare! Both chokes open together with geared cams.
The other thing I found was that the engine would run and still idle at any angle where all 4 wheels were still on ground some VERY close to rollover. Stand the car on its nose ane would still run properly. A fluke of design? Maybe , but they worked extremely well.
Not as "powerful" as a tricked Holley, but MUCH, MUCH more economical and no flooding probs.
Starting was always instantaneous.

And made of Unobtainium.

They also have a water temp controlled auto choke and I fondly remember fixing a mate's Capri V6 auto which had a failed thermostat which was running cold by giving it about a 2 hour Italian tuneup. It needed that to stop blowing white smoke.
Regards Philip A

Yes, Phillip A, Unobtanium--- have to remember that one.
Last year saw a NEW one on ebay UK and it wasn't that expensive.
Admittedly I was fiddling with these about 15 yrs ago; always replaced that auto choke with a manual kit. I used to have a boxful parts for these-- long gone now.
They still pop up at swap meets!
My second choice those days was SU ( ones with rotatable fuel bowls were straight bolt-on) replacing the CD's; they too proved much more reliable and better starting.
Fraid I'm a diesel believer these days, so amen to the Webers and those crappy Holleys! ( that should get a couple bites?)