Thread: what to check - going back to air from coils

would any one happen to know the type of relay under the drivers seat which is missing. there is a yellow one still in place, the missing one is on the passenger side of this.[/QUOTE]

G`day Brett ,

are you look at the yellow one under the drv seat looking from the back seat , if so our LSE only has a yellow there and an empty socket and i`m not sure this is EAS , there is also a fuse block there under the seat to the drv side .

Have you found the 70amp maxi fuse under the drv seat , if you have you should also have found another yellow and a green relay of the same normal size and a large white relay this is all EAS . ( So 3 in total with the maxi )

If not found you`ve found the ecu , which is frt seat base , this other stuff is side seat base .

The SE soft dash we have i bought on coils and it has the green relay missing under the right side seat base cover and also only has the single yellow and empty holder under the rear of the drv seat.

There is also an EAS isolating switch under the drv seat , it may be loose on the floor or clipped in , it should be to the right looking in from the back seat .

It is just a rocker switch but if it`s off so will the EAS be . ( maybe 1/2 inch wide by 2 inch long and it`s black )

The better EAS isolator is the pyramid-shaped plug and socket under the seat at the front. When plugged in to itself, everything is normal... when out the EAS is both frozen AND totally inactive. This allows you to plug in the EAS Unlock Suite or the BBS 'Kicker' and take over control of the suspension etc.

The 'Disable' switch under the seat is automatically neutralised when travelling over 56 km/h.
- Push the bottom IN to 'Disable'. Used when servicing and working on the car, which is why it is black, unmarked and hidden.

I've got a switch mounted on the front face of the seat base, which connects the two circuits together. Or not.

If you decide to go this route, don't bother using those displacement connectors, solder the wires instead. - The original wire gauge is too small for those clips...

Regarding relays, from the front you should have a 5 pin relay for the warning light, then a 4 pin one to run the compressor, the big white one is a time delay that keeps the system active for 20 seconds or so after turning the engine off.

The "MaxiFuse" is for the compressor, and there's another 15A in the fuse-panel for the EAS - ECU.

Hope that helps.

had a chance to look at the EAS today.

photo of under drivers seat showing the 2 normal size relays and the big white one. found the EAS isolating switch and the fuse block too. can't locate the 70amp 'maxi' fuse though.

pulled cover off compressor enclosure and the two push/pull connectors were, well, not connected. connected them back up and fiddled with the isolating switch and zilch. had a look at fuses under steering wheel. don't know which one is for EAS as don't have the handbook but i couldn't see a blown one nor in the fuses under bonnet above the drivers side wheel arch.

superquag - there is a large black container which has to be removed to get at the panel in your photo. dumb question - but what is this black container?

any tips on what to look for next to get her to fire up?

much appreciated.

brett.

on an aside, commenced replacing the viscous coupling with one from ashcroft's. landed to my door it was AU$568. the splines inside the VC don't look too good. i found no metal pieces in the oil though. the splines which drive the VC to my untrained and mechanically ill equipped eye looked OK in that the 'flat' on each spline still had the small parallel markings which i guess were there from turning during their manufacture. they don't show up on the photo though.

with the VC removed the output shaft could be rotated about 3 degrees - good or bad? have seen photos on this site of damaged output shafts and read of the banging sound under hard acceleration (which i don't have) being an indication of a loose chain. does any of the wear in the photo indicate that a new output shaft is needed? don't know the history of the BW on this car.

thanks,
brett.

"...superquag - there is a large black container which has to be removed to get at the panel in your photo. dumb question - but what is this black container?"

In mine, its the sub-woofer enclosure. From memory, the sub amplifier is attached to it somewhere... - Follow the wires !

In my pic you should be able to see the CD stacker (attached to the floor).

No such thing as dumb questions, especially if you're on the bottom of the Learning Curve.

Originally Posted by pibby

on an aside, commenced replacing the viscous coupling with one from ashcroft's. landed to my door it was AU$568. the splines inside the VC don't look too good. i found no metal pieces in the oil though. the splines which drive the VC to my untrained and mechanically ill equipped eye looked OK in that the 'flat' on each spline still had the small parallel markings which i guess were there from turning during their manufacture. they don't show up on the photo though.

with the VC removed the output shaft could be rotated about 3 degrees - good or bad? have seen photos on this site of damaged output shafts and read of the banging sound under hard acceleration (which i don't have) being an indication of a loose chain. does any of the wear in the photo indicate that a new output shaft is needed? don't know the history of the BW on this car.

thanks,
brett.

The splines on the output shaft that you need to worry about are not the ones that engage with the VC but the ones that engage with the centre diff behind it; the shaft that you can see in your photo goes from the end that engages with the VC, right through the centre differential, to the rear output where it is splined onto the drive flange. The middle set of splines that engage the centre diff carry all the drive from the chain to both axles and these are the ones that strip and fail. You can pull the front output housing off- much like pulling the back housing where the VC is- and withdraw the shaft from that end with the housing, to have a look at the splines.

The maxi fuse for the EAS compressor is behind the plastic trim on the side of the drivers seat base, the one that the door nearly touches when closed.

Pod, just to clarify, - in case I'm wrong....

- you mean the (middle) splines that are turned by the REAR output end of the Centre-Diff, that also directly drives the REAR axle. - the front end of this little shaft goes into the VC and is connected to the inner-plates. - The Outer plates are fixed to the VC body, which is solidly connected to the FRONT output of the Centre-Diff, and also drives the FRONT axle.

Because the drive to the front from the Centre-diff is so SOLID, (Casing of the VC driven by big splines) this connection never breaks. The tiny shaft that joins the VC to the rear of centre-diff carries twice the load with half the metal... Naturally it WILL wear and break.

That's the way I interpret the RAVE drawings...

This is the pic I meant to (take..) show in answer to the queries about yellow and green relays under the RH seat.

1995 Classic Vogue SE with EAS, built July '94

- On the right side of the pic you can see the ON/Off switch that takes the place of the plugged-in plug/socket. It's UP (OFF) at the moment, the Rocket-Launcher cover makes it a tactile as well as visual indicator.