1990 Range Rover VM 2.4 engine swap?

My 3rd last RR was 1993 and I fitted a 300TDi.
The VM bell housing and most likely the G'box input shaft won't fit a 300TDi.
I've now done 3 diesel transplants into RR classics I've owned and with a small turbo diesel, the auto is the way to go! Much less or NO turbo lag experienced as the torque converter boosts that low down torque of the diesels.
My '93 was already auto, so I "just" had to find bell housing and flex plate; a bit difficult at the time as most wreckers wouldn't separate the bell housing from gearbox.
Yes, I did a 35mm body lift- necessary in that model. The actual transplant was easy. wiring was dead simple, with the 300 engine loom- just an extra wire from ignition switch to injector pump.
External oil cooler, enlarged intercooler, a bit more boost/fuel and it did perform quite well; pity about the smoke cloud though on full throttle! This I fixed to acceptable level by running it on 100% biodiesel for the year that I had it; believe it or not, it ran smoother, quieter and much cleaner ( oil too) with no drop in power.
Next RR Classic ( still have) a '94 soft dash LSE , I fitted a TD5/auto-- VERY good to drive, but a lot of work ($$$). Had this one now 7 years; very reliable; economical and clean. I go away for up to 6 months at a time last few years and just disconnect the battery on leaving. On return, reconnect, and about 2 revs of motor and it's going-EVERY time.

Yes, properly made / washed & dried Biodiesel will run smoother and cleaner in just about any diesel. - I don't know of any exceptions.

My own experience running 100% Bio. in 2 turbo-diesels, and some mates who took excess off my hands was... 'Torque-band starts earlier and smoother, reduced clatter, cleaner exhaust with less eye-watering "diesel" stink (on one engine) but a subtle fried chips odour... slightly slower idle in some engines and top speed drops by around 5 ~10%'. Fuel consumption was too close to be statistically relevant.

- But that's well above speed limits...;)

I'd like to think the engine oil was less black, but can't prove it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by donrover0

My 3rd last RR was 1993 and I fitted a 300TDi.
The VM bell housing and most likely the G'box input shaft won't fit a 300TDi.
I've now done 3 diesel transplants into RR classics I've owned and with a small turbo diesel, the auto is the way to go! Much less or NO turbo lag experienced as the torque converter boosts that low down torque of the diesels.
My '93 was already auto, so I "just" had to find bell housing and flex plate; a bit difficult at the time as most wreckers wouldn't separate the bell housing from gearbox.
Yes, I did a 35mm body lift- necessary in that model. The actual transplant was easy. wiring was dead simple, with the 300 engine loom- just an extra wire from ignition switch to injector pump.
External oil cooler, enlarged intercooler, a bit more boost/fuel and it did perform quite well; pity about the smoke cloud though on full throttle! This I fixed to acceptable level by running it on 100% biodiesel for the year that I had it; believe it or not, it ran smoother, quieter and much cleaner ( oil too) with no drop in power.
Next RR Classic ( still have) a '94 soft dash LSE , I fitted a TD5/auto-- VERY good to drive, but a lot of work ($$$). Had this one now 7 years; very reliable; economical and clean. I go away for up to 6 months at a time last few years and just disconnect the battery on leaving. On return, reconnect, and about 2 revs of motor and it's going-EVERY time.

---

what sort of dollars are we looking at for a td5 conversion to and 88-90 rrc

I am considering buying a td5 disco wreck as a donor. I recon about $4k surprising the little it's and pieces that come ul and add up in these jobs.

The early Cherokee diesel is the same as the 2.5 version of the VM in the RRC.
A full rebuild kit is a round $4500 AFAIR including sleeves etc etc .
IMHO this would be a better solution than an engine swap unless you can source the 300tdi engine and transmision very cheaply and know it is good. There is a website selling the Jeep stuff on ebay.

I can recall a club member who had a 300tdi Disco and rolled it on the Oodnadatta track , then tried to start it. he said it made a funny noise then but he didn't say anything to the insurance company. bent rod? So Buyer beware.

Graeme Cooper told me that in his opinion the VM was just as good as a 300Tdi if not neglected and had better low down torque, and he had a lot of experience with both.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mattg

Hi All.

I have been offered a 1990 Rangie VM diesel For $2,000 I believe the Tdi300 is a bolt in with a factory conversion kit.

This one has overheating and possible blown head gasket. I am thinking about buying it and fixing the one head gasket that is blown and drive it until the engine totally dies or another head gasket goes. In the mean time find a Tdi wreck to do a swap.

has anyone done this or know what is required to do this?

cheers

Matt

---

Classic problems with the VM was head gasket problems almost all of them did it.

Main reason it is a redesigned Italian marine engine which was originally designed to have sea water flowing around the engine and cooling it.

The 300 TDI is an easy fit. I would take the gearbox as well and put 300tdi engine and box in. Makes a bit easyier to fit. This will make the posititioning of the engine mounts easyier.

But a well worth while fit into a classic.
For a bit if history the classic Diesels went from VM to 200 TDi to 300 TDi. All pretty much the same car wrapped around them. Don't you think you had the 200 and 300 factory fit for cars sold here.

I bought a 200tdi disco for $1500 with the idea of taking it out and putting it in my Rangie but when I flew down to Sydney to pick it up and drive back to Brisbane. I found it had twin batteries and twin tanks winch bull bar. plus loads of other extras and drives really well.
So sold the Rangie and kept he disco.

Missed out on this one. That is 2 great trucks I missed out on this week. Turned out all this one needed was a retension of the head bolts. But in saying that I thought the bolts were stretch bolts. Can you retorque a stretch bolt? I have called the other guy with the vm in pieces and left him a message.

Do NOT retorque a stretched bolt; use it as a punch!
In the 200 and 300 diesels, its a good safe practice to replace the head bolts if head has been off. They really are stretched a lot when you follow the tightening system! Bloody tight!
I'm not sure what the procedure is on the VM?
Alloy heads on VM? If so, consider this:
The 200 and 300 heads, if unknown history, should be hardness tested prior to installing. If you try to torque down an overheated head, the bolts just keep "grinding" their way in! You'll think that they will never torque up!