In thread 120244 I reported what happened to me in 2011 when my aircon was regassed and I had a number of hose failures.
The aircon has been going well since but I felt it was losing efficiency as it was not cycling at idle on low fan.
I called greg at Coast cool Air and had it looked at yesterday.
It had lost about one third of the 134A but was still working.Not bad in almost 2 years
He recommended that I try Hychill ( hydrocarbon) as he had had good results on older systems and he was confident that it was safe. He had been to demos where the type of flare up was shown, and he felt that it was not explosive.
Given the horrendous cost of 134A now and that he would give me a rebate for what was removed, I went with Hychill, and it seems to work well. Total cost was a nett $110 which was pleasing.
The head pressure of the system is lower and the compressor has lost the rattle that it had and the "gurgle" I was hearing through the TX valve, and it was cycling on fan speed 2, on recirc but I looked later and saw I had the passenger window down. impressive..
It may be my imagination but the engine seems to run a couple of degrees cooler with aircon on , on my digital gauge.
BTW I recall someone posted some time ago , a "how to" dismantle and fix the aircon switch on a 93 hard dash RRC. My switch is reluctant to switch on fan speed 1 on the aircon. I have changed the switch over relay so I think it is a bad contact in the switch. Especially since if I run the switch quickly up and down , it then will start.
Can anyone recall the post title or number?
Regards Philip A
It is different to an 88 in that it has a vacuum servo that shuts a flap on the heater, but if you have the LH lever on "fresh" then outside air comes in the air inlet.
However the aircon itself is still only a 'hang on' which draws air from the floor of the passenger side.
Regards Philip A
It's not exactly a how to, but here is my thread with a couple of pics of what your switch may be looking like...
Dash out...fun times! Burnt switches
(pics from my 93 classic)
Last edited by Richard93Vogue; 30th November 2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: car detail
If Hychill is the same/similar to other gasses I've come across ("BANG - gas" according to the 134a brigade) then yes, Philip, your engine is having an easier time of things. Peak pressures are much lower than 134a, and overall average is also measurably reduced. - No, don't have the precise figures.
Bottom line is... the wickedly explosive and evil gas is more efficient, takes fewer hp and is happy to stay on the INside of your hoses, unlike 134 which has.... exploratory tendencies.Your aged & infirm system will last a bit longer on this naughty stuff...
As you know, its also less costly.
Our workhorse commuter, Mazda 626 apparantly is recently suffering from less-than Antarctic air-con, according to #2 son who leaves it parked in the sun. - 1989 build, 409k, original R12.
I'll accept 23 years A/C gas life.![]()
www.hychill.com.au/pdf/hcm_e.pdf
This is the product description and safety document .
I note there is 375 grams in a RRC system, which is not much.
Regards Philip A
Hychill is more efficient per volume/weight then Testicular Cancer 134a.![]()
Yep not a lot of gas but at that amount have to make sure evaporater is clean as(seen them ice up) RR suck a lot of dust of the floor and turns to concreat on the evaporater when aircon turns off and drys out, Im running 310gr in mine and cold enough for me with aircon cycling nicely.(have swapped condenser for a better cooling type.)![]()
IF it dont start Mark an X on the front gaurd and give it a good swift kick and buy a landy
Yes , I pulled the lower fan cover off and got a bottle brush and vacuum into the fan. Amazing how much fluf and dust is in there. I cannot be bothered dismantling the whole thing as it still works well.
RR suck a lot of dust of the floor and turns to concreat on the evaporater
Regards Philip A
any more info on the better condenser. newer rangie, after market, suit different car?
looks at getting my A/c up and running again after a while and want to give it the best chance possible of being awesome.
insulating lines in the engine bay, side vent (to help reduce under bonnet temps) cleaning out vents/condenser etc.
already got the v. dark tint so that's helps a fair bit
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