Reply With QuoteI just ditch the Lucas amp and rewire for a remote Bosch amp and coil. Nothing too hard with some suitable wire and a few crimps. Thread here:
Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024
My pics are near the beginning of the thread.
Fossicker
Hi all just after some input, advise on Amplifier Module Relocation kits for my 94 Classic. The old girl has developed a case of the hot stalls.
After a bit of reading apparently the amplifier module on the side of the distributor is a common fault, i noticed the outer insulation cable on mine looked to be melted exposing a red and white wire. so i my limited knowledge of the mechanics i would say this aint going to work so well once everything gets hot. To combat this for now ive had to increase the reves to about 700 when in drive . So any tips on where to buy one and installation more than welcome.
Cheers
AT REST
I just ditch the Lucas amp and rewire for a remote Bosch amp and coil. Nothing too hard with some suitable wire and a few crimps. Thread here:
Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024
My pics are near the beginning of the thread.
ForumSage
YES, x2
Did it with mine, not difficult, worth it for peace of mind.
Read the whole thread.
James in Gosnells
95 Classic with working EAS... and 2WD.
Fossicker
WELL WORTH relocating just dont put next to rad as the disco1 didOriginally Posted by superquag
place him on the inner gaurd!!
Fossicker
Cheers guys looks like I'm off to the wreckers... Or would you recommend new bits, any idea of cost for new gear. Oh where do I mark the dissy before taking it out Im freaked out ill stuff up the timing.
Thanks again
AT REST
Wreckers is cool, especially a pick-a-part type. New Bosch BIM024 modules are still good, about $60 trade, Bursons stock them. New Bosch coils are chinese made, I would avoid them.
Texta mark the rotor arm to the body and the body to the water pump, make sure the keys are out of the ignition and no-one turns the motor. Pull out the dissy gently and make a second mark where the rotor ends up, you will need this mark to get it to mesh in the correct place on the way back in.
You could also set the engine to no.1 TDC before you start, makes finding the timing easier if you stuff up. Also a timing light would be handy for checking the timing when it's all back together, just in case. Your timing may be out by a few degrees after the amp swap as the triggering voltage is slightly different.
ForumSage
"...You could also set the engine to no.1 TDC before you start, makes finding the timing easier if you stuff up. Also a timing light would be handy for checking the timing when it's all back together, just in case. Your timing may be out by a few degrees after the amp swap as the triggering voltage is slightly different. ..
I'd go one step further... Measure the timing and the reluctor/pickup gap before you start. Use a brass feeler gauge or plastic of known thickness.
Also a good excuse to degrease the area, especially the timing marks...
There's some info in that link about removing the rotor arm. Very important.
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