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Here's a photo of a page from the workshop manual. I thought this might help you to picture things more easily. You might also find some information on here since people have done the same thing when they've put Defender calipers on Range Rovers and had to block a couple of lines.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1361454391
I once ripped a rear hose on the RRC and had to finish a weekend and drive back from the wrong side of the mountains on just the fronts, of course the weekend wasn't complete without tearing one of the secondary fronts as well so drove back 200K's + on one brake.
Interesting times coming down hills in low range with an 82 auto 2door.
I'd run the primary circuit to the fronts, get some braided lines. Blocking the front port of the proportioning valve may effectively stop everything working. The piston in the valve requires pressure to move a tapered end piston which at a certain level will start to allow flow to the rear. The spring pressure will set the pressure and the taper will vary the flow. If the bypass to the front circuit is blocked the circuit is deadheaded and fluid being incompressible may have no effect on moving the piston and you'll get no flow to the rears. Having said that there should be a reverse flow bypass to allow pressure to return from the rears past the now closed piston when pressure is released. You couldn't run the front "sensing" line back to the reservoir as the flow would be unrestricted, pressure in this line to the fronts will vary with pedal pressure as the calliper pistons move.
All flexible brake lines are braided. Usually the braid is hidden behind a protective cover. The externally braided lines aren't road legal in NZ, are they in Australia?Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
The proportioning valve works fine with one input. The other line is just working as a T.
But I found with bigger front calipers, the proportioning valve was best out of the system altogether. It started leaking, I removed it temporarily and found the braking was better.
Some braided lines are legal. Depends on the supplier. Enzed are ADR approved and have listings for most common vehicles (incl RRC & D2 since I supplied them with some samples). You are correct in saying that all lines are braided in the sense that even the rubber includes a nylon embeded in the rubber but they still swell and especially break down the rubber on the inside which (again, especially in RRC's with the small hole into the area behind the piston) ends up insdie the piston back and blocks the return flow and stops the piston releasing. Stainless braided hoses can be rubber or teflon lined (prefereble). There are some hoses which are approved where you buy the hose end components and assemble yourself (scary stuff when you consider some of the types that could be doing it). They are approved as an assembly but only when assembled by an "authorised person", a loose definition again.
When you say nylon, you probably mean aramid (aka kevlar) which is a lot stiffer than stainless steel. They don't swell more under pressure than stainless braided hoses do.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
The braiding type and location doesn't dictate the liner material.
I had no problems with my stock RRC lines at 25 years old. I fitted longer ones then.
I've never had brake line problems with any of my vehicles, but the RRC is the oldest.
So the logic of fitting braided lines because they keep their shape and do not swell, are more resilient to tearing and having a teflon liner rather than rubber and being in use in just about every class of racing known and on performance cars from factory is bunk? Given that rubber is massively cheaper than stainless braid, it's a performance consideration over financial but if they were cheaper and better...
Just about all rubber hose has some sort of embeded reinforcement. But I'd still dispute that a factory hose doesn't swell, especially at 25 years.
All brake lines are braided. All lines also swell under pressure (basic physics). Lines with stainless external braiding are just for looks and are less damage tolerant than lines with internal braiding and a tough rubberised outer.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Any line can have a teflon liner regardless of it's exterior.
Where do I find these factory performance cars with stainless braided lines? Race cars are not a good measuring stick for recreational 4wd's.
Well they made a massive difference to the braking when I put 'braided' brake lines on the wife's disco over the factory rubber ones
Thank You. You're not the first to report a better pedal feel post upgrade, even though I'm sure they were replacing old hoses not brand new.
As for manufacturers running std braided hoses: Konneisigg, Mc Laren, Aston Martin, Porsche, Ferrari... They can be speced as options on many lower level cars in brake upgrade packages as well.
If the old lines have issues, or even if the old bleed wasn't good, then new lines of any type will feel great.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
So here we have a picture of the brakes on a 996 with standard brake lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
Do these look like braided stainless to you?
To me they look just like the internally braided lines found on all other cars. These even have an anti-chaff coil around them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/03/1042.jpg
IMO braided stainless lines are the brake equivalent of pod filters. Poorer function than most stock setups, less damage tolerant and more likely to damage other parts.