Thread: Electric Windows - Where to start

The general fix is .....

Buy a can of circuit board cleaner, available at Repco
Unplug and remove the window switches
Spray the cleaner fluid in the switch and cycle the switch at the same time so that the fluid can clean / remove the internal grime

Reinstall the switches and all should be fine


Cheers
Mike

If Mike 90 RR solution fails take the door card off, disconnect the motor wiring at the joiner plug, using a test light check for power delivery.

Once you get used to RR idiosyncrasies, and there are some, all of which have been encountered by the members of this great site, who are more than willing to help, you will become, like the rest of us, addicted.

I wish you a great, (sometimes frustrating) future relationship with your Classic.

Cheers
Jhonno

The general rule with for all electical problems is to check the simple things first, rather than suspect the big expensive part. So check all connections and fuses, and especially grounds, which seem to cause a lot of trouble on old Rangies. If all's well, then you can start checking for power, starting at whatever isn't working, and then moving along to the source. Usually this methodical approach will do the trick, rather than just stabbing at it and hoping for the best. (Oh, do I ever speak from experience here.)

Originally Posted by Davo

The general rule with for all electical problems is to check the simple things first, rather than suspect the big expensive part. So check all connections and fuses, and especially grounds, which seem to cause a lot of trouble on old Rangies. If all's well, then you can start checking for power, starting at whatever isn't working, and then moving along to the source. Usually this methodical approach will do the trick, rather than just stabbing at it and hoping for the best. (Oh, do I ever speak from experience here.)

Davo is using the "GAP Theory of Electrical Failure". - Look for a GAP in the circuit where there should'nt be a GAP, (broken wire, connecter not connecting etc) or the lack of a GAP where there should be a GAP. (shrt circuit or u/s switch)

Correct GAPs are vital for the health of RRCs and their owners.

If you do all the electrical checks already mentioned, and you have power at the motor, but still no action, the motor mech is serviceable, despite its looks. Drill out the rivets, and clean out all the hardened grease and junk in there, free everything up, and regrease. Re attach the cover with some short self drilling screws.

Did all 4 on mine as 2 didn't work, and the others were very slow. All work like new now.

Cheers - Gav