MAF, Injectors & ing system

We have had several RRCs from 2 door onwards to LSE. All of them were hard on fuel when they worked hard - that's what happens.

A GEMS transplant is a woftam.

Be prepared to replace the 5AM afm with a real new one, have oxygen sensors installed, pay for time on a dyno and that will sort your fuel bill to something stable. Listen to what Phillip has to say about this - it's first hand.

Now you give the car a hard time in lots of situations, it seems to me, so changes to one element (say, the tyre size) is going to have an effect on other elements (say, handling/ground clearance/ride). Whatever YOU decide, evaluate the outcome of the decision that you make, then proceed to the next element. But you appear to have a wish list longer than an ape's arm at this point, and I reckon you need to prioritize them.

For mine, the first thing to do is to get the fuelling right. It is obviously a problem for you. If you are proceeding with traction aids from ARB, and you use them to the limit, I'm sure your fuel consumption will go out the window again, because you'll be WOT nearly all the time (except on the way home, when you'll cruise like all other RRC steerers!).

And again for mine, if you make these "enhancing" alterations, something different will bust... like engines mounts or radiator mounts or tie rod ends or uni joints or 'a' pillars or back window catches or.........

Good luck with the decisions!

Pete

Thanks Pete.

The wish list really isn't that bad if you compare to changing over to another car for diesel or talking about putting a TD4 in to it.

Its about making it a more solid car so I can get a true idea of fuel range and then go from there.

When I am playing at toolangi or narby - thats where I'll point it up anything and give it ago - but I want it a little stronger for longer trips. l

It's the local trips that are damaging the vehicle. The ironing out of your fuel consumption ups & downs still appears to be the problem. And the vehicle lacks range?

Get another sill tank off David Brown and have it plumbed in correctly.

Have you got engine problems? Get an expert to either fix it or condemn it, but don't keep taking second bites at it. As I said before, prioritize your changes, evaluate them at every step. But listen to the experts who do this stuff for a living and others who have made changes in the past.

Something busts as a result? IMHO, most breakages occur as a result of operator error.

Good luck.

Pete

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Gen11 yellow fit without modification.

Gen111 yellow do not have a top clip groove so you have to add another o ring on the bottom a bit larger than the oring already there to stop them being forced out of the rail with fuel pressure. Plugs are plug and play.


Regards Philip A

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Rail is bolted down to the manifold, won't pop off and rail pressure is only 36ish psi anyway so not high by any means.

I swear by the Gen III ones, much better atomisation and stops half of the fuel getting sprayed on the intake runners as they aren't perfectly angled towards the intake seat. Still flow the same rate as the Lucas OE units and have a much lower power draw to fire them making them considerably more responsive.

Andrew

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Rail is bolted down to the manifold, won't pop off and rail pressure is only 36ish psi anyway so not high by any means

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Someone on this forum had Gen111s drop down into the inlet manifold enough to uncover the top oring and have petrol spray everywhere.

That is why I added the extra Oring which wedges against the bottom body of the injector .
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by Pierre

It's the local trips that are damaging the vehicle. The ironing out of your fuel consumption ups & downs still appears to be the problem. And the vehicle lacks range?

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Damage... nah not that far :p

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Get another sill tank off David Brown and have it plumbed in correctly.

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Yep - just chasing a second handy one and if not then off to them :)

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Have you got engine problems? Get an expert to either fix it or condemn it, but don't keep taking second bites at it.

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Nope - Engines fine ;)

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Good luck.

Pete

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Cheers man :) changing whom works on my car to someone my mate uses and is doing all these mods as well :) just he has a Disco with the 4.6 instead.

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

have a much lower power draw to fire them making them considerably more responsive.

Andrew

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Is that to say they are a different impedance to original? There are low and high impedance injectors and the wrong ones may (and I have seen it) irreparably damage the ECU.

On the original Q's.

Do the BU dizzy conversion. Attempting to go COP and dizzyless will bake your noodle and empty your wallet.

You can eleiminate the MAF (what type is yours? Flap/hotwire?) with a MAP sensor but depending on your original system you may or may not be able to and if so you'll need to interupt the signal and convert it to what the ECU needs to see.

On the balance of the Ign system. You could go piggy back but to do it effectively and with installation and tuning you're talking LS figures for a decent unit, say Motec or Autronic, which are the only two I'd consider. Allow around up to 10-15hours dyno time.

There are some basic systems I've seen that operate like the luminition system in the dizzy with a wheel on the crank nose and a hall sensor. But always seem to have reliability issues as unlike the dizzy they are open and exposed.

From the talk it sounds like you've a hotwire 3.9?

At 200,000km if your engine is looked after it should be perfectly fine, they don't wear out after 200,000 if they're looked after. My 93 has 298,000 on it, no chain stretch, no compression loss, no oil consumption, and returns 12.4lt/100km consistantly if I treat it gently.

Lack of power is the main reason I bought a HSE though (they really fly!!)

The biggest killer of fuel economy in the hotwire systems (if the motor is good) is an incorrect setting of the airflow meter (should be around .9-1.3V), vacumn advance diaphram stuffed, intake air leak, dodgy water temp sensor, or bad dizzy.

[/QUOTE]Is that to say they are a different impedance to original? There are
low and high impedance injectors and the wrong ones may
(and I have seen it) irreparably damage the ECU.

[/QUOTE]

No the impedence is correct (high). I have had Bosch 4 holes for over 5 years and 110Kks now with no problems.
I have to show some disbelief about 200 KK V8s. Mine is/was serviced religiously every 5KK but still had a very worn cam and timing chain, and I owned it from 76KK to 222Kk now. It is a design problem as the cam base circle diameter is very small.
Regards Philip A

Good to know about the injectors.

Agree about the cam, mine when pulled at 200+ was bad to say the least with fracture lines in the faces of the lifters.