This RRC is driving me nuts!!!!!

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Originally Posted by bee utey

There's not much point replacing the cap if you don't get the moisture out of the dissy. Water gets in the bottom, condenses in the cap. Just leave the cap off for a couple of hours of sunshine and check everything, don't just blindly throw new stuff at it.

It doesn't take all that long to ruin a plug lead, pull every lead off and look inside the boot for shiny connectors. If it's black or dull compared to the others, it's probably failed. Sometimes tight plug boots cause the lead to jump off the plug just enough to arc without the lead falling off completely. Seen this happen too many times.

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And on one occasion when I bought new leads, the plug socket wasn't even connected to the lead. :eek:

I had a R.R a few years ago with similar problem . Rover replaced everything Manifold , carbs , Distributor , went on for over 12 months. I found the coil was at fault & shorting in side . When the coil is laying on its side & doesn't have enough oil to insulate it it will short out , you can hear the spark the same as the spark from the lead. Also had a mini do the same thing , every time i went around L/H turn. This problem can be dangerous have seen photo back in the days i worked for BMC , of a mini where the coil blew the bonnet off when the vapors on the hot coil iginted . Wayne

hmm... checked all leads and plugs, all reading normal. from memory its 9000ohms per foot yes? for the lead.

I had a new rotor and cap anyway. had teh car for 2 years, they were both due. especially the rotor.

hmm.... Im now on a mission!!! I know it will be something small, like a wire off or something. Its cos its intermentent that makes it hard. It did it yesterday on cold start up!

I'll go back to basics and check all sensors next and if it does it again...

Cheers NAT

P.S Oh its got a new coil, well a new one for the car.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nat p

hmm... checked all leads and plugs, all reading normal. from memory its 9000ohms per foot yes? for the lead.

I had a new rotor and cap anyway. had teh car for 2 years, they were both due. especially the rotor.

hmm.... Im now on a mission!!! I know it will be something small, like a wire off or something. Its cos its intermentent that makes it hard. It did it yesterday on cold start up!

I'll go back to basics and check all sensors next and if it does it again...

Cheers NAT

P.S Oh its got a new coil, well a new one for the car.

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Nat, USE A GENUINE ROTOR BUTTON AND CAP!!!!!!!!!

You have been warned:D


JC

fair enough!

I actually went bosch for both? is that ok?

Ok,
Updates, I've been driving him around today and it much much worse when it's hot. Does this mean anything to anyone?

I'm still thinking sensor issue, fuel temp sendor, or ..... Sticky valves, cos it does come good after about 1o seconds.... Buggar

Chees Nat

Eliminate the IGN module as a 'probable', replace with a Bosch BIM 024 or just buy one from Bee Utey... :D

Cheer mate, but one step ahed, buteey sent me one already, it's amazing how much it runs smoother. She runs like a dream except for this.

Cheers Nat

I thought I'd give you all an update as to where this ended up, and what was the problem and hence the solution...

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none...

I ended up caving and bringing to Ritters Auto and seeing of they could figure it out. They had the car for 2 weeks and it didn't play up once!!!! NOTHING!
They said it had a heap of fault codes, this could have been from anything. Like me disconnecting things whilst the engine was running.

The only good news is that they have cleared them all, and now its a waiting game..

Still no cheers Nat... and back to the chev.