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Thread: 1983 RRC 4 speed resto

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
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    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by tony66_au View Post
    His screams will be stuff of legend, mystical words such as COBRA PAINT and Kin philistine have I not taught you a thing and muttering about pigment quality and flow straight off the gun like they did in the sistine chapel until I calm him with a few snorts from a handy tak cloth.....

    And yeah, why did you?
    Why did I paint mine ? .... er, well I started with "i need a car to drive yesterday".... followed by "I better fix that" as I came across it ... Which rapidly progressed to "well the ****box is now is so many bits ... I'd be crazy to not to paint it while I'm here". You know my ****box still isn't back together. It just started getting driven as my daily driver ... so I drive everywhere with no lower dash in ... no dash lights and everything half assembled.

    Poor old ****box rangie. she gets no respect at all. About a month ago I was doing a 3 point turn and suddenly the was a loud crack and I saw something flying the length of the car out of the corner of my eye. Having no idea what it was I kept driving .... to find no indicator stalk where it should be at the next corner .... sigh .... I realised what had happened, the weather had turned cold and I was wearing a rain coat. The coat sleeve snared the indicator switch when I was twirling the steering wheel sheering it off. Even worse was I realised I could reach into the the steering column and push my thumb against the jagged plastic edge to turn the indicators on. Which obviously means I haven't got around to replacing the indicator stall yet Don't worry, I'm sure the tip of my thumb will develop a nice big callous so it won't feel so jagged eventually

    What's wrong with PPG Cobra? I used that on the last car I painted and thought it was great

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.9V8 ... slugomatic
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,119
    Driving with a raincoat.............. Im not going to ask.

    I currently have plastics off the dash, great grey slabs of the stuff and im wondering what the validity is and if i should put it back, Spare stalks I have luckily but as mines older than yours the stalks are a bit more robust, Still no raincoat wearing for me.

    My question (to clarify) was actually why did you reply to an ancient post?

    What I realised was that id had the car way longer than I thought and it was pre Brain fart so that explains the hole in my memory and why I had brand new parts I knew nothing about.

    I have a great and unmolested roof, well 2 of them so providing they are the same length id think that id just prep a roof and risk leaks by changing them over if I was that keen.

    But as my Daily is a Volvo and this old girl will be on a Club permit I'll just tidy her up and leave her original as she was when new including an alloy nudge bar that straddles the front bumper and gives me somewhere to mount a 27meg CB aerial and some spotlights.

    Also seems im stuck with the seat mounted belts unless I want to get later versions professionally fitted....
    Silver 1986 Vogue
    Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
    Red 88 740 HP Turbo
    Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
    Blue pearl Volvo 850
    1998 Volvo S90 Royal
    W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
    Posts
    693
    So you still have the 350SLC Tony?
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,119
    I do indeed, Unpacked a lovely delivery for it today actually so some cutting and welding on the horizon!

    Concrete floors next month for the shed and then a lovely Haltec conversion and a coat of satin black so I can drive it again.
    Silver 1986 Vogue
    Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
    Red 88 740 HP Turbo
    Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
    Blue pearl Volvo 850
    1998 Volvo S90 Royal
    W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by tony66_au View Post
    I do indeed, Unpacked a lovely delivery for it today actually so some cutting and welding on the horizon!

    Concrete floors next month for the shed and then a lovely Haltec conversion and a coat of satin black so I can drive it again.
    Yeah I miss Lurch. Possibly the most enjoyable vehicle I have ever owned. Not sure what it is about the early 350's, but they are just so nice to drive.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Mercguy View Post
    Yeah I miss Lurch. Possibly the most enjoyable vehicle I have ever owned. Not sure what it is about the early 350's, but they are just so nice to drive.
    Weirdly simple for a Merc but the package even as standard is a great and incredibly well balanced deal.

    I think the motorsports heritage of the C107 speaks for itself and the Bore and stroke of the 3.5 M116 makes it a very squirty car to drive and this is why im ditching the D jet for a used Haltec and at a later date a larger TB to help her breathe.

    She wont be a show pony because thats just not my thing, the Drive is what im about and theres plenty of incredible roads here to enjoy.

    Last step is a Manual box or a manualised Auto.....
    Silver 1986 Vogue
    Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
    Red 88 740 HP Turbo
    Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
    Blue pearl Volvo 850
    1998 Volvo S90 Royal
    W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
    Posts
    693
    I know this is taking it slightly OT, but having been through auto-manual conversions on the m104 coupe and in the 201's, I would actually go for a 722.6 auto and ole's standalone shift controller.
    The only bugbear you'll have is tq converter mounting depth because the auto bellhousing stud pattern doesn't match the early iron block m116/7's. and the speedo head is mechanical (swap later 116 or 107 back (source from usa) and use your metric face) with a speedohealer and a hall sensor on the flexdisc coupling bolts at the back of the transmission (provides a 6-trigger output for a hall-proximity sensor, or you can install a thin trigger wheel sandwich plate on the yoke).

    The other option for the v8's is finding that super-early 4 speed 717 manual (try UK/EU) and the necessary 350 flywheel etc. won't be cheap and the box will be flogged. that's the bolt-up option. The "conversion" options are better IMO. 717.6 6 speed with a custom FW (easy) and adapter plate or a 717.404 / 717/452 getrag dogleg 5 speed. (717.452 is the dual-mass fw version behind the amg 3.4 / 3.6 - 200kW+ no prob). The issue with these boxes, is they must have precautionary inspection - because the input shaft front bearing invariably has suffered because of sidestepping clutch launches in the vehicles they were fitted to. The bearing noise is a giveaway, and the bearing is OE only (INA/FAG/Schaeffler) currently only BMW have the bearing listed as available and it's about 160 aussie $.

    synchros can wear in the getrag, but they are pretty darn cheap, and the front seal and rear seal should always be replaced on any box regardless. But the biggest problem with manual boxes isn't the conversion or the propshaft or any of that, because all of those bits are factory and dead easy to get, so long as you are prepared to buy brand new (crossmember for 201/124 and 107's was less than 50 bucks for last one I bought - 3 yrs ago). No the biggest issue is finding the right gearbox here in australia. They are scarce and very $$$$.

    the last "used" 717.404 I purchased (as a spare box for the cosworth) was $2k and it has a shagged input shaft bearing, so the case needs splitting to overhaul. and a full overhaul on one of these done by a pro (you can DIY, I have) is in the vicinity of about 4500-5K with parts and labour. It is the strongest box and will easily handle a 6.0 m119 amg, or a 500bhp OM606.962 so there is no concern about it hanging together behind a 3.5 m116. The issue simply is one of cost and mitigating the overheads by looking overseas and being prepared to buy sight unseen. Thorsten stadler in germany usually has good leads on the dogleg boxes, but the superturbodiesel guys are all over the 716.6 manuals and 722.6's - for me, the 722.6 is the way to go - paddleshift option, a nice w140/210 shifter that will fit in the 107 shifter location and not look out of place (factory) and 5 forward speeds (0.83 overdrive) and 2 reverse gears... perfect for an m116 with 3.46:1 rear.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,119
    Rangie progress pics!

    The 722.6 is the 5 speed E box from the late 90's im thinking? I was pondering manualised valve body converted 722 4 speed from a W116 280SE as a cheaper alternative but id have to check the converter setup for compatibility, I do have a W116 350SE here as well for bits so im thinking I should have a few options as well regarding pattern and parts plus my awesome Neighbour is a precision engineer, German and a great bloke who has had Mercedes before so im sure I could cobble something together and a lower 1st gear would be lovely.

    Well its been a Week of setbacks on the RR but a few days of above average temps and sunshine allowed me some more bodywork and paint with the front and rear bumpers sorted kinda roughly but presentable enough. I didnt soda blast and weirdly theres bog on the front bumper but they are now satin black and presentable-ish.

    More wiring and she now starts off the key again and the new starter motor draws 1/3rd the current so a wire path and ziptie is now all she needs, one more brass Tee piece and the EFI radiator is complete and apart from some cosmetics and a few more shake down runs im very happy with the cooling system.

    Still chasing the reason for the less than stellar Blinker brightness as the hazards are nice and bright with the Wagner electronic flasher can and yet the Blinkers look like a 1960's VW so im redoing all the earth points I can fine and chasing back from there and im going to see if I can replace that 6 pin Lucas flasher module with something better.

    Brakes......... Ugh, New Master Cyl in hand and bench bled but do you think the old one is coming out without a fight?
    Nope, Dissimilar metals and corrosion means that the Right front hard line wont come off without rounding the nut which seems to be made of butter, Being used to old Girling Jag systems I have a nifty Crow foot spanner set in imperial and Metric but even with all the car in the world the butter flare nut rounded like a champ as the much larger Clutch Master did.
    So off to the parts wagon for the RH front hard lines and VOILA all fixed and waiting a system bleed.

    Rear and front lenses all roadworthy now too and the front nearly buttoned up with my nice newly cleaned RR alloys with Michelin tyres going on for the time being until the Gotti wheels get some love and fresh rubber.

    No Bull bar for the moment and the crush marks under the mount points are from a hi lift jack and will be sorted out later.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Silver 1986 Vogue
    Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
    Red 88 740 HP Turbo
    Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
    Blue pearl Volvo 850
    1998 Volvo S90 Royal
    W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Now I dont wanna speak Illawarra, but how much can a Koala Bear?
    Posts
    693
    Quote Originally Posted by tony66_au View Post
    Rangie progress pics!

    The 722.6 is the 5 speed E box from the late 90's im thinking? I was pondering manualised valve body converted 722 4 speed from a W116 280SE as a cheaper alternative but id have to check the converter setup for compatibility, I do have a W116 350SE here as well for bits so im thinking I should have a few options as well regarding pattern and parts plus my awesome Neighbour is a precision engineer, German and a great bloke who has had Mercedes before so im sure I could cobble something together and a lower 1st gear would be lovely.
    Yep, it's in a lot of things - w140, r129, w202/3 w210/11, w220 as well as the 5.5L m113 amg engines (box is 722.6 w5a080). The only issues that need attention are the seals on boxes that have sat pulled from vehicles, fluid contamination in boxes that have never been serviced or pulled and left outside... that and the TCU connector plug / seal and if the box isn't shifting properly it's a fault in the conductor plates PCB (chrysler). New bits are cheap plentiful and easy to replace. Internally, if the box has been abused a lot, then the sprag roller bearing cage (inside K1 clutch) can fail on the early boxes. this was revised twice during the life of the transmissions. a bad slipping 3rd gear is the precursor to this issue.
    The last versions of 722.6 have a larger roller bearing with more elements and requires a new carrier as the circlip groove is about 2mm further along the shaft (larger bearing have to relocate the retaining clip). Very strong behind modified CDI diesels, so the torque handling is there. Ideally, this is the best solution but the bellhousing will need modification to mate to the m116. the v8 version w5a080 is rated to 1000Nm in standard trim for warranty purposes. add a couple of frictions and steels to the baskets and shim them on the tight end of the tolerance and they can easily take 1350Nm from a standstill. I have atsg service manuals if you get a box and find you need to modify it.

    Well its been a Week of setbacks on the RR but a few days of above average temps and sunshine allowed me some more bodywork and paint with the front and rear bumpers sorted kinda roughly but presentable enough. I didnt soda blast and weirdly theres bog on the front bumper but they are now satin black and presentable-ish.

    More wiring and she now starts off the key again and the new starter motor draws 1/3rd the current so a wire path and ziptie is now all she needs, one more brass Tee piece and the EFI radiator is complete and apart from some cosmetics and a few more shake down runs im very happy with the cooling system.

    Still chasing the reason for the less than stellar Blinker brightness as the hazards are nice and bright with the Wagner electronic flasher can and yet the Blinkers look like a 1960's VW so im redoing all the earth points I can fine and chasing back from there and im going to see if I can replace that 6 pin Lucas flasher module with something better.

    Brakes......... Ugh, New Master Cyl in hand and bench bled but do you think the old one is coming out without a fight?
    Nope, Dissimilar metals and corrosion means that the Right front hard line wont come off without rounding the nut which seems to be made of butter, Being used to old Girling Jag systems I have a nifty Crow foot spanner set in imperial and Metric but even with all the car in the world the butter flare nut rounded like a champ as the much larger Clutch Master did.
    So off to the parts wagon for the RH front hard lines and VOILA all fixed and waiting a system bleed.

    Rear and front lenses all roadworthy now too and the front nearly buttoned up with my nice newly cleaned RR alloys with Michelin tyres going on for the time being until the Gotti wheels get some love and fresh rubber.

    No Bull bar for the moment and the crush marks under the mount points are from a hi lift jack and will be sorted out later.
    Brakes... I used to love doing them and the satisfying feeling of overhauling them. Easy on the mercs, on the RRC not so much.

    Do you think the flasher can just needs replacing or do you think the main feed side of the relay is causing the voltage drop?
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North, Vic.
    Posts
    1,119
    Well the flash rate is fine, just the volts are low so im thinking electro mechanical issue with the flasher unit.
    if the 1986 has the same relay I might borrow that and see.
    Silver 1986 Vogue
    Charcoal 1983 Range Rover 4 speed
    Red 88 740 HP Turbo
    Silver Volvo 740 Wagoon
    Blue pearl Volvo 850
    1998 Volvo S90 Royal
    W116's, C107 and a W123 onna stick

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