1983 RRC 4 speed resto

Adding the final touches to my 1983 Manual RRC with a view to making it my daily.
Almost all the mech is now done and wiring is slowly being sorted as well as interior and she is stock height, stock exterior except for the dealer fitted rear step.
id like to replace the Seatbelt setup so I can upgrade the front seats (Seat mount belts to pillar mount) but the next step is to replace the older and somewhat worn Points distributor and resistance coil with a later electronic unit and 12 volt coil.

I prefer using OEM parts when available because they just work so my donor injected MY 85 3.5 RRC will provide the dizzzy and amp setup.
I have wired in new circuits for the starter and will also replace the ignition circuit adding 35 amp relays as needed and the starter motor is brand new (Well worth the cost) so how do I wire in the OEM electronic dizzy and what do i need from the donor to do this job?

Cheers

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Originally Posted by tony66_au

Adding the final touches to my 1983 Manual RRC with a view to making it my daily.
Almost all the mech is now done and wiring is slowly being sorted as well as interior and she is stock height, stock exterior except for the dealer fitted rear step.
id like to replace the Seatbelt setup so I can upgrade the front seats (Seat mount belts to pillar mount) but the next step is to replace the older and somewhat worn Points distributor and resistance coil with a later electronic unit and 12 volt coil.

I prefer using OEM parts when available because they just work so my donor injected MY 85 3.5 RRC will provide the dizzzy and amp setup.
I have wired in new circuits for the starter and will also replace the ignition circuit adding 35 amp relays as needed and the starter motor is brand new (Well worth the cost) so how do I wire in the OEM electronic dizzy and what do i need from the donor to do this job?

Cheers

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I suggest you pm bee utey (aka Jilden) re: the distributor, or have a look at the Bosch replacement module thread that's mostly him to get this sorted.

cheers, DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

I suggest you pm bee utey (aka Jilden) re: the distributor, or have a look at the Bosch replacement module thread that's mostly him to get this sorted.

cheers, DL

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Thanks DL will do!
I did read in a few places about the Bosch module versus the Lucas hoping this will answer my questions.
I dont mind Points per se but the 8 volt coils and the hot start wires etc and a weak point id rather replace.

Cheers,
Tony

Well She runs and drives nice, just slooooow and im thinking Timing since I popped in a 12 volt hall effect sensor kit from Pomgolia along with a 12 volt coil.

The old girl is nearly there and apart from the ignition upgrade I recently added a new Brake Master Cyl and flushed the fluid, resorted the indicators by properly shimming the Hazard switch so it now supplies clean voltage to the indicators which are once again nice and bright.

Bodywork........... Ive been told to stop fiddling with this and to paint a trailer with the now ancient acrylic paint I have as the use of said product will cause the enamel from the factory to crowsfoot quickish and my Pet Painter/Body guy said he will (His words) **** a coat of 2k on it after doing some bodywork and make the old girl look respectable :-)

Crunchy engine bay wiring has led me to shortcut the start and ignition wiring with brand new stuff and a starter button so apart from the feed from a 12 volt wire from the Key its all me.

The Crunchy Wiring has also led to issues with gauges but thats something I'll chase when the thing is painted.

Added relays for the headlights too as they are H4 and work brilliantly.

SO! The distributor............. it has 2 Vac hoses for advance and retard, I need to sort those AND set/check Dwell and timing and I bought a new timing light and made leads for my multimeter to check Dwell.

Sorting this and then the hole in the valley gasket I inherited and I can start on cosmetics...........

Does anyone have the Dwell and timing numbers please?

Piccies to come shortly

Tony, if you have the BIM024 module dizzy setup, there is a hall sensor inside no points. there is a minimum clearance gap which you can set to get a good strong pulse, but that's it. static timing adjustment after that and vac advance (if your vac unit has 2 lines you can block the retard off and use only the vac side). After that module takes care of all the dwell, so no need to worry.
Only thing I'd consider is ensuring the dizzy shaft is tapped, so pulling the rotor off doesn't break the nylon clip.

I didnt go with the BIM Module, I went with a hall effect sensor 12 volt conversion.
So replaced the points with a unit and slip on timing ring (Over the Dizzy shaft) that feeds to both sides Neg and Pos of a 12 volt coil and thats it.
Used the original dizzy this way too.

I'll check the dwell anyway and the timing while im at it and have a shot at blocking the retard vac but the timing light will probably show me the issues.

Well its 3 to 6 Degrees BTDC and about 28 on the Dwell for factory settings so if its close im checking the advance curve and vacuum at the manifold.
Maybe I need air filters....

It’s will run heaps better with 8 to 10 degrees of advance - don’t go off the factory settings, it will be a slug.

I can run 12 on mine no dramas apart from scorching hot days under full load.

I’ve set them at 10 and they are very happy.

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Originally Posted by Homestar

It’s will run heaps better with 8 to 10 degrees of advance - don’t go off the factory settings, it will be a slug.

I can run 12 on mine no dramas apart from scorching hot days under full load.

I’ve set them at 10 and they are very happy.

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yeah I kinda found that today, Set to 8 BTDC and its more but still pinging.
Dwell on the 12 volt points replacement hall effect is 17.5 to 18 degrees though and I tried timing by ear and checking with the light to see where I was at.

Might need some fresh fuel though, I popped half a tank in it 3 months ago after draining and cleaning the tank but it does drive way better at 8 BTDC.

This weeks jobs have been fairly intensive and its shaping up nice though, Patching a hole in the valley gasket tomorrow if I can, cleaned the flame traps on the rocker covers and the hoses too, Found better vac source for the Vac Advance and blocked the Vac retard feed but that Dwell still bothers me being 10 degrees low.

I popped the later model bigger radiator in with some fab work and it runs a bit cool but not cold too and when I do the fresh fuel and Oil I'll go grab a trailer of Sand and see how she pulls then.