That's interesting. Does it still allow drive to the other side if you lift a wheel ... or end up with one wheel in slop/ice? (you don't mind if it spins, but does it still transfers some power over ?? )Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo
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That's interesting. Does it still allow drive to the other side if you lift a wheel ... or end up with one wheel in slop/ice? (you don't mind if it spins, but does it still transfers some power over ?? )Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo
that's really interesting, and there not hugely expensive by the looks of it. The tiniest touch of the brakes seems to bring both side in if one side looses 100% traction (the deisel doesn't even die he touches the brakes so gently)Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uwpNpvsshQ]2 Detroit Truetrac Diff's in Action - YouTube[/ame]
I have a Subaru (AWD) track car, and putting proper LSD diffs in that made a world of difference to the way it drove and handled. Torsen helical up front and mechanical '2 way' rear.
Completely changes the way the car gets the power down.
Four wheel drives should come with them standard, and I'm guessing they do in later models?
Will keep my eyes out for a decently priced LSD for the rangie once the new axle is in.
Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions so far.
Yes, it will still spin when in soft sand or in the air and so on, but otherwise it's fine. I didn't care - I had a worn original diff that was going to explode and punch a hole in the cover and this was a great way to replace it and upgrade as well. I'd planned on lockers and axles but I don't really need them after all. With just the rear diff replaced and the tyres at 20psi, last weekend the Rangie sped up a sandy riverbed that it had slogged through before.
Did you get these local or from US? They look a great solution for most applications
Axle is in, the rangie is back on the road.
Took her through the car wash and found a few leaks around the doors and windows!
Back to the diff - if I was to source a LSD to fit, is this a straight forward procedure or does it require special tools or assembly?
Quick update.
Have put an Ironman LED light bar on the bull bar and it works a treat.
Took the car up the coast of WA (not far as I only had a few days) to Jurien Bay, Wedge Island, Lancelin.
What a difference the 31x10.5 tyres make over standard! I remember taking my old P38 out to the same beach near Jurien and having trouble through some boggy parts.
Sandy Cape campsite, near Jurien Bay
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/955.jpg
Wedge Island
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/956.jpg
Out in Lancelin, we came across a people-mover full of Asian tourists stuck in the sand. Made good use of my recovery gear and got them out - lucky too, as I didn't see any other 4WDs on the dunes on the Monday!
Lancelin
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/957.jpg
Whilst on the dunes, my engine mounts gave up, and the engine dropped, causing the exhaust to rub on the rubber mounts. As a result, my trip was cut short.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/11/958.jpg
Going to attempt the engine mounts today, it doesn't sound too hard.
Would anyone have any suggestions for a good jack to keep in the car for trips? I have one of those hi-lift jacks, but its useless - I can't put it under anything, and it's so damn unstable!
On a similar note - has anyone painted their exhaust headers/manifold in high temp paint? Is this worth doing given the rust of mine?
Look in Gumtree / Range Rover ARB .... :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza89
The original Hydraulic bottle jack is best .... Can be found in anyone wrecking the Range Rover to Disco series. Have a piece of 600x600x18mm plyboard in the car when out on the tracks.Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza89
I do not like the Hi Lift ..... will take out your fingers n break your legs
I've got a 5 ft high lift and hurricane rims like yours.
Probably not politically correct, but I use the rims as a jack point (i.e. the inside top of the rim) with a rag between the jack post and the body above the wheel arch, to avoid paint damage.
Unbelievably quick to get out a bogged situation because there is no suspension droop.
The preferred jack in the back for everyday use is a small (1.5 t) trolley jack, much quicker and safer than anything else.
cheers, DL
Update. See some of the recent progress & work with the inlet manifold and carby here
I found today, that after filling up the car with 95 RON (usually I just put 91 in) and giving it a good blast through the gears, the car began revving strong through the rev range with no stuttering.
As my mate has recently acquired a cheap disco 1 as his first 4wd, we thought we would take it for a test run with my rangie on the Mundaring powerlines.
It was a hot day 30+. The rangie did not take long to get pretty hot (3/4 of stock temp gauge) and began ****ing a little bit of coolant out the overflow.
The car occasionally stalled both on obstacles and 'normal' driving whilst it was hot, then refused to even try to tick over. Even putting a wire straight from the positive terminal of the battery to the starter motor - nothing would happen.
Would this be a starter issue, or an ignition issue? Either way, I would have to wait for the car to cool down a bit before it would turn over/start.
In regards to the cooling, the car has 2 electric radiator fans that are wired up to be 'always on' when the ignition is turned on. I think one is orientated to pull air through it, and the other is the other way round. Now I think about it, shouldn't both be pulling air through the radiator?
I had the radiator re-cored within a year or so ago, but with all the pulling apart and putting back together lately, the coolant is probably not at the right ratio (would be a bit weak). The thermostat is fairly new also.
Any ideas as to why it is getting so hot, and any suggestions as to how I could help reduce this problem? Almost considering putting air vents in the bonnet to help lower under bonnet temps.... The exposed exhaust headers could also be a problem.