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Order placed for new head gasket set...unsure if it has steel or composite head gaskets actually. Part #RTC3337.
One of the workshop manuals I was reading through (I think it was the RAVE copy) stated that 'the 2 types of gasket were not interchangeable and it is essential to ensure the correct type of gasket is fitted'.
Apparently the engines with a suffix 'B' added to the serial number have a steel gasket, whereas the engines without the 'B' have a composite gasket.
As my block is covered in grease and oil, I haven't found the engine number yet. I will be getting a few cans of degreaser onto it to clean it up a bit and see what I can find...
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Hi jezza89,
the head gaskets are basically the same deign but made of different materials and are interchangable. You do have to remember that a composite gasket is thicker than a steel one so it does lower the compression ratio. Without going into the maths to give exact figures if you fit a composite gasket to a high (9.35:1) compression ratio engine made for a steel head gasket than you bring it down to a lower compression ratio engine. If you engine is already a low (8.13:1) compression engine than you drop it even further and loose engine performance. On the flip side a steel gasket on a low compression engine originally fitted with a composite gasket raises the engines compretion ration as does a steel one on a high compression ratio engine raise it high enough to require the best of fuels or a fuel additive to stop detonation.
The compression ratio can be found stamped on the engine block beside your engine number on the left hand (passengers side here in Aus) side in the middle between the exhaust manifold output pipes.
As far as I've read all Rover V8's up to the tempest engine were originally fitted with steel gaskets, the Tempest and early Thor engines had the comosite ones.
This of cause could have been changed during the engines life with a head shave and composite gasket fitted.
To identify your head there is a casting number in the rocker area in the centre of the head.
1976-87 Casting number - ERC 0216
Efi casting number - ERC 0216
Early 90's - HRC 2210
Tempest and Thor casting number - HRC 2479
It is common for people to put the HRC 2479 heads on earlier engines if the heads ever need replacing, they are the best finished with better air flow than the older ones due to better casting, they also allow the composite gasket to be fitted without modification and keep you original compression ratios.
I have the HRC 2479's on my 1989 classic and they were a bolt on replacement. Pthers out here may know if other year models lack holes for accessorys that there original heads had.
I can't remember however if the composite gasket gave allowance for the third row of head bolts below the spark plugs on the earlier engines, it's general consensus though to not refit these as it was proven that they caused head warping hence Land Rover did away with them.
I'm sure others can fill in any gaps or errors I've made here :)
Valguard
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Thanks for the information valguard. I guess it will be easier to find this info once the heads are off. My dad might have been spare engine or set of heads that I can take from.
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The car has a 'points' distributor, and I'm finding it a PITA to tune.
Can anyone provide me with part numbers for the electronic ignition dizzy? Wanting to see how much they are worth new before I go sourcing a used one
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Bit of a bitsa at the moment. Priority is to get it running well, then handling well, then cosmetically good enough to avoid attention from getting yellow sticker etc.
You can see the rope popping out from behind the grill - that is by 'bonnet release rope' - at least until I get a proper cable etc :p
Also see my engine bay fuses.... a bit of a worry there. Will have to look into that later!
Also replaced the top tailgate with one that wasn't full of putty and crap. That way at least I can swap the frame for an aluminium one when the time comes.
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Last couple of weeks I have got a bit more done.
Decided to strip the interior and check it all out first before taking the engine out.
There is a big hole in the driver's footwell, probably rusted out from leaky windscreen seal.
I have put rust converter on all the spot/surface rust in the rear and passenger footwells, then have sprayed with black rust prevention paint.
I put an electronic ignition kit on order as the points dizzy was giving me the ****s...
Also the head gaskets in the kit were thin steel ones, so I have ordered some composite gaskets separately.
Will be pulling the engine out to do the gaskets, as I want to give the entire thing a clean up.
Going to get some paint cans made up in the bronze colour code and make the car a uniform colour again.
Progress...
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Rover V8's dont like after market dizzy caps or rotor buttons and this causes running problems, original is best with these items. Engine number is on a boss right where the dipstick goes into the block, you should most likely have a high compression engine - when in good nic they are a strong motor.
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/07/1457.jpg
Can the choke cable be removed from the dash without completely removing it from the throttle assembly also?
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Also, a bit off topic, went to Barbagello for a track evening with the Triumph Sports Owners Club.
Never knew that the Rover V8s went into smaller cars, but they can go pretty quick!
Was my first time on that track (plus it was at night) with my Subaru WRX... needless to say the older guys in their TR8s showed me how it was done!
http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...03245565_o.jpg
