If I go to this much effort to get the sump bolt off, I may as well take a section of the exhaust out to get at it with a socket... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica
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If I go to this much effort to get the sump bolt off, I may as well take a section of the exhaust out to get at it with a socket... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by jackafrica
Sometimes, removal of exhaust parts introduces new problems, costing money. However, perhaps this effort is worthwhile.
I sensed a desire to save money in one of your previous posts about the cost of the spanner.
A cheap smaller size open end spanner can be bodged simply by filing out the jaw to the suitable size. This is a "out bush" bodge.
Surely in Perth is a supplier who has the correct sized spanner at a price you considered affordable.
Often too, there are markets and old blokes flogging tools, cheap.
Found a spanner, 1 1/8, got the job done eventually. Sump bolt was up so tight I think it stuffed the thread a little.
I dropped the sump to renew its gasket and found a label/sticker sitting in the oil!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/10/483.jpg
While it's off I am sanding it back to bare metal and spraying it with high temp paint... It was mostly rusted and corroded.
Fingers crossed I can get it all up and running this week!
Not sure on how much you plan doing to the engine at the moment, but the timing chain looks loose/stretched. No biggy, but your cam timing may be out a poofteenth. The cam is probably a bit worn as well. It's the old can of worms scenario - how far do you go?
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Car has been running well for a while. Sump bolts need tightening though.
Trying to get the Holley tuned and sorted so it doesn't splutter or bog down.
Was leaking power steering fluid so i am in the process of replacing one of the non pressure hoses (the one that feeds the steering box from the reservoir) however in my haste I have cracked the fitting on the box. Luckily I have access to a wealth of RRC parts, however the piece I got doesn't seem to screw in.
Did the threads on the steering box change from imperial to metric in the 80s?
Mostly sorted tuning issues; was as a result of dizzy not being reinstalled correctly when I put it all back in.
Yesterday I gave the classic a run on the local powerlines track, with my cousin in his P38.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/11/1589.jpg
The car was much more capable than I had anticipated, but still lacked the go-anywhere capability that my dad has always maintained about them. However with a couple of modifications I believe it could be achieved.
Compared to the P38, the classic hangs a bit low, which was detrimental through some obstacles. The added traction control gave the P38 more stability on loose gravel sections, and the classic could not keep up with the P38 on the more winding, even ground.
Once I found the limitations of the classic however, I was more eager to push it. The transfer case popped out of gear on an obstacle and I rolled backwards into a ditch - I had to climb out the window as the door was jammed shut. Petrol poured out the overflow due to the angle it was sitting on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/11/1590.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/11/1591.jpg
Any time the car hit water, it would get into the dizzy cap somehow and the engine would splutter to a stop. I'm suspecting that the lack of a viscous fan cowling is allowing more water etc up into the bay and onto the dizzy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/11/1592.jpg
Overall, the engine was very strong and the car managed to perform beyond expectations. I wasn't afraid of most obstacles as the classic's panels have a few scratches/dents already, and the car seemed to love it.
I think that some lifted springs, bigger/mud tyres and some kind of seal or protection for the dizzy will see the car tackle the more difficult obstacles. Perhaps some side steps/sill protectors too!
The day's outing has left me with a bit of a problem. The classic was great off road. Any dramas were fixed easily as it is such a simple engine and car.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/11/1593.jpg
My new P38 is at least triple the cost of the classic, and will soon have perfect panel & paint, and a nice interior to match. I was originally going to sell the classic after I had the P38 up to scratch, however now I am not so sure. The P38 seems too nice to take off road like that; I got mud all through the car. My cousin in his P38 did not have as much trouble through the water as I did, but had a couple of close calls going onto 2 wheels!
Should I stick with the plan and ditch the classic in favour of the P38? Or should I keep the classic for the rougher off road adventures and leave the P38 in good nick?
Keep both - you know you want to. With the Classic, anything you want to do with it has been done, so just do lots of research and you should have some answers in no time. I know that with the dizzy some people have made a simple shield to keep water off, which apparently works.
After last time's outing, I knew that the classic needed a few alterations to make it a bit more bulletproof off road.
I have 2 sets of cheviots with 31.5x10 tyres (one set bridgestone dueller, one set mud pattern) that will hopefully give the diff some more ground clearance. However I am still trying to chase down wheel nuts to suit. I have been referred to a mob in QLD who should have what I am after EZAccessory | Wheel Adapters, Suspension Parts, Lug Nuts & More
As far as waterproofing goes, I have ordered a new set of leads, a new dizzy cap and rotor arm. I also have a rubber kitchen glove and some cable ties if that doesn't do the trick!
The air filter on the holley was stuffed with mud, so I have put a fresh one on. But looking to make up some kind of guard to prevent all the mud getting in it again.
I fixed the door that wasn't opening by taking the trim off and oiling the mechanism - I will have to do this to all the doors as it makes a big difference!
Also I have found that the rear passenger door will turn on the interior light, but none other. Half the doors are missing the pressure switch in the door pillar - what are these called and where can I get them?
I've also ordered a new speedo cable, as my speedo mostly bounces around 20km/h higher than the speed I am doing!
The angle drive seems to be intact, so I'm hoping a cable will set it straight.
It will be worth it. Linn Rover here in Perth may have the door/light switches Home
Linn Rover - ugh. Here's what you want: search results for "PRC8548" I've had a set of them for the last two years or so!
Hopefully a speedo cable will cure your bouncing needle but you may have to take the speedo apart, depending.