Thread: Fitting front brake hoses.

Remove the reservoir cap, put a layer of cling-film plastic wrap over the entry and replace the cap.
This will seal up the vent and prevent all the fluid running out when you change the lines. You will still lose some, but nowhere near as much.

Clean everything before undoing any lines.

Originally Posted by snowbound

I'm just waiting on delivery of new front brake hoses for my 84 RRC. My question to thems that knows! is "are there anything I need to know?" My main concern is that once I disconnect the hoses the brake fluid will gravity feed out of the reservoir? Is there a trick to stooping this, or should I just let it happen and take the opportunity to change the fluid by default? Its been many years since I did this job, and then not on a Rangie. Any tips gratefully received.

Also, one front caliper has gotten pretty hot a few times due to being stuck in the on position a few times, is this likely to have had any adverse effects on the mechanism / seals etc?

Jez

It it were me, i'd be replacing the fluid with the lines anyway. When you remove the lines you are giving opportunity for impurities and moisture to contaminate the fluid.

Also if you have the twin front brake line set-up you probably have 3 bleed screws on each front calliper. They are meant to be bled in sequence but i can't remember what it is. Probably bottom to top.

Originally Posted by Jazzman

It it were me, i'd be replacing the fluid with the lines anyway. When you remove the lines you are giving opportunity for impurities and moisture to contaminate the fluid.

Certainly. But it makes sense to use the old fluid to chase the air out, then use new fluid to chase the old out.

Rather than wasting new fluid chasing the air out.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Certainly. But it makes sense to use the old fluid to chase the air out, then use new fluid to chase the old out.

Rather than wasting new fluid chasing the air out.

I concur!

3 bleed screws on each caliper? Wow, that's a revelation! does anyone know for sure what the sequence is? though logically as air will rise in fluid I guess bottom to top is correct? Also on another thread someone metioned something about NOT pushing the brake pedal to full travel while bleeding the brakes as this can damage the servo unit?

Originally Posted by snowbound

3 bleed screws on each caliper? Wow, that's a revelation! does anyone know for sure what the sequence is? though logically as air will rise in fluid I guess bottom to top is correct? Also on another thread someone metioned something about NOT pushing the brake pedal to full travel while bleeding the brakes as this can damage the servo unit?

The servo handles pedal to the floor. The problem is with an old master cylinder you can have a rusty section in the pedal stroke that's never used. This can tear up the seals if you bleed through it.
But I've never had that problem, I use full stroke for bleeding.

The front twin line calipers have the bottom two pistons on one circuit and the top two pistons on the other. One bleed nipple for the top circuit, two for each side of the lower. They are seperate circuits and need bled individually.

Originally Posted by Dougal

The servo handles pedal to the floor. The problem is with an old master cylinder you can have a rusty section in the pedal stroke that's never used. This can tear up the seals if you bleed through it.
But I've never had that problem, I use full stroke for bleeding.

The front twin line calipers have the bottom two pistons on one circuit and the top two pistons on the other. One bleed nipple for the top circuit, two for each side of the lower. They are seperate circuits and need bled individually.

That clarifies it nicely. Thank you!

When bleed I've done the 2 lowers at the same time (if ya handy) never had a problem all I did is make sure I did the upper first but either way works

Adam