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Thread: Fitting front brake hoses.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbound View Post
    OMG conflicting information here. Which do I bleed first, top or bottom??
    You'll be doing them all repeatedly the first few times.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    You'll be doing them all repeatedly the first few times.
    Hahahaha that's for sure


    As long as you start from P/S rear then D/S rear then P/S front and last D/S front.

    On the fronts I've always done the upper first but I don't think it matters really

    Adam

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by agrojnr View Post
    Hahahaha that's for sure


    As long as you start from P/S rear then D/S rear then P/S front and last D/S front.

    On the fronts I've always done the upper first but I don't think it matters really

    Adam
    Awesome! Thanks guys

  4. #14
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    I only had trouble with mine because I had no fluid in the system before I started. I went with the conventional start with the calliper furtherest away from the master cylinder but I could not get any peddle feel.

    From memory I think I had to start with one front circuit first, then to the back then moved to the front again. Once I finished I bleed them all again, the conventional way just to be sure. I have mint brakes now needless to say, but it was an exercise trying to get peddle to begin with.

    Snowbound you should not have this problem as you have fluid in the rear circuit and front callipers to start with.

    I don't know how you have done it before, but I use a clear tube that fits over the bleeder tightly. I run the tube up, then down to a clear glass jar with a hole in the lid for the tube. (Tomato paste jars are great because they are large and often have measurements on the side.) The reason it goes up first is so if any fluid is sucked back, it should only be fluid and no air as the air travels up the clear tube.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    I only had trouble with mine because I had no fluid in the system before I started. I went with the conventional start with the calliper furtherest away from the master cylinder but I could not get any peddle feel.

    From memory I think I had to start with one front circuit first, then to the back then moved to the front again. Once I finished I bleed them all again, the conventional way just to be sure. I have mint brakes now needless to say, but it was an exercise trying to get peddle to begin with.

    Snowbound you should not have this problem as you have fluid in the rear circuit and front callipers to start with.

    I don't know how you have done it before, but I use a clear tube that fits over the bleeder tightly. I run the tube up, then down to a clear glass jar with a hole in the lid for the tube. (Tomato paste jars are great because they are large and often have measurements on the side.) The reason it goes up first is so if any fluid is sucked back, it should only be fluid and no air as the air travels up the clear tube.
    Thanks Jazzman (and other posters) I have actually invested in a little kit from Stupid cheap that set me back $12 this has all the fittings and a magnetic mounted "jar" to keep it elevated!

    Jez

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbound View Post
    Thanks Jazzman (and other posters) I have actually invested in a little kit from Stupid cheap that set me back $12 this has all the fittings and a magnetic mounted "jar" to keep it elevated!

    Jez
    The container is too small and I bet you give it a miss after a few goes - they are not very good.

    I have a one person bleeder that is a plastic pipe with a ball bearing valve arrangement at the end. I have that end in an old plastic bottle with the pipe going through the lid with a small hol as an air vent - had it now for years and works OK for me.

    Likewise I tried those sucker bleeders but they tended to just suck air around the bleed screw.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbound View Post
    Thanks Jazzman (and other posters) I have actually invested in a little kit from Stupid cheap that set me back $12 this has all the fittings and a magnetic mounted "jar" to keep it elevated!

    Jez
    Anyone thinking of buying the brake bleed kit from Stupid cheap, save your money! Its a heap of crap that does not come close to doing the job. I spent all afternoon struggling until I finally got a helper and had them bled in no time at all. Tomorrow Rangella takes me fishing

  8. #18
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    Aug 2008
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    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    The container is too small and I bet you give it a miss after a few goes - they are not very good.

    I have a one person bleeder that is a plastic pipe with a ball bearing valve arrangement at the end. I have that end in an old plastic bottle with the pipe going through the lid with a small hol as an air vent - had it now for years and works OK for me.

    Likewise I tried those sucker bleeders but they tended to just suck air around the bleed screw.

    Garry
    Just saw this post. Give the man a cigar he was right on the money!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowbound View Post
    Tomorrow Rangella takes me fishing
    But will it get you back??
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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