I only had trouble with mine because I had no fluid in the system before I started. I went with the conventional start with the calliper furtherest away from the master cylinder but I could not get any peddle feel.
From memory I think I had to start with one front circuit first, then to the back then moved to the front again. Once I finished I bleed them all again, the conventional way just to be sure. I have mint brakes now needless to say, but it was an exercise trying to get peddle to begin with.
Snowbound you should not have this problem as you have fluid in the rear circuit and front callipers to start with.
I don't know how you have done it before, but I use a clear tube that fits over the bleeder tightly. I run the tube up, then down to a clear glass jar with a hole in the lid for the tube. (Tomato paste jars are great because they are large and often have measurements on the side.) The reason it goes up first is so if any fluid is sucked back, it should only be fluid and no air as the air travels up the clear tube.
The container is too small and I bet you give it a miss after a few goes - they are not very good.
I have a one person bleeder that is a plastic pipe with a ball bearing valve arrangement at the end. I have that end in an old plastic bottle with the pipe going through the lid with a small hol as an air vent - had it now for years and works OK for me.
Likewise I tried those sucker bleeders but they tended to just suck air around the bleed screw.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Anyone thinking of buying the brake bleed kit from Stupid cheap, save your money! Its a heap of crap that does not come close to doing the job.I spent all afternoon struggling until I finally got a helper and had them bled in no time at all. Tomorrow Rangella takes me fishing
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