Thread: How to get 400Nm from RRC

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Also OT... I have a cunning plan to transplant a Td5 into an old sports car body. Which TD5 variant has the simplest and most transplantable electrics? I recall PSimpson7 saying the commercial 90/110s had the simplest setup?

It would wanna have a reasonably tall engine bay?

I'll throw my opinion in as well and again many apologies to the OP,

None of those Td5's IMO are excessive smokers; IE they do it for ONLY as much time as it takes to find another gear, sure spiking the EGT's to 800+ is a bit risky but just how long do you think they spend at those levels? Goodness at those outputs they will run out of revs, bravado or road driven like that so really it isn't an issue at all AFAIAC.

My old turbo intercooled 4BD1 Isuzu 110 can outsmoke any of them on a daily basis if shortshifted up hills ( especially around cyclists...) and has been doing so for 120,000km now. Still going strong and highest EGT's if anyone must know was 540 degrees upstream at these times. Most I have seen towing a van up hills has been 680. All these temps are upstream, and like I said I ran out of gears and road to push it any higher


EDIT: Jose, can I have one of those smokers stickers??

JC

Originally Posted by rovercare

Jose, wow, what a reply, well done

Que Dougal with some graphs and theory?

Why because i like quoting you

Originally Posted by td5inside

Dougal... This is my exact status:




This is my remapping computer, taking a bath and also enjoying his holidays




This is how my car is (waiting for new suspension from the USA - triple bypass shocks)!








With above 40º, sunny weather, do you really think i´m gona get up, walk away from the pool just because you want some EGT´s readings from my car! Relax man!! I do have all the time in the world for my costumers ! I Just dont remember you being one

After my holidays, I will have a 4x4 national championshiop event, then Rainforest Challenge Malasia qualifier, then Portuguese Ultra4 King of Hammers Race. Along with my costumers these are my top priorities !!

Both of the cars that are entering in this competitions will "smoke"





I will add a sticker to warn those that are more sensibles




You will have the EGT´s readings when I get both the time and will Is that Ok?

Regards,

Hahahaha

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Originally Posted by signal

What is your opinion on the most effective way to achieve 400nm of torque from a RRC? (Effective = a balance of reliability, cost and ease of installation)

Interested in peoples opinions. Not concerned about bhp or fuel economy. I just want a reliable, cost effective 400nm to get around with a bit less effort than current 3.5EFI.

Hey mate,

To answer your question, you currently have a V8..so I would just simply replace it with a Tsleaved 5L Rover Davis Performance Landies engine or a Tsleaved 4.6L with a supercharger..simple reliable and all the power you will ever need and just slots straight in and not much else needs changing, you may also have to upgrade your auto down the track to cope with the extra power and torque, hope this helps

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Originally Posted by rovercare

It would wanna have a reasonably tall engine bay?

A dry sump engine system can be a solution to that

Originally Posted by justinc

EDIT: Jose, can I have one of those smokers stickers??

JC

Pm me your adress... I´ll send you one

Originally Posted by djam1

Just to take the threadfurther off course

How many gearboxes andaxles do you go through?

In fact what modificationsdo you do for them to do the competitions?

Duane

Hi Duane,

This can actually put us ontopic again, since drivetrain is important when you want more power

These modifications are a bit like remaps, they should suit the car and type of competion we are competing in.

The type of competition in wich I participate is a cross country race with Gps waypoints.You have to run the car during 7 hours (sometimes, several days) and validate the most possible waypoints. This means you have to run really fast in tarmac roads, but also have the car prepared to go through mud, rocks, climbs,if the waypoint is located in any of these places. That said, I dont real need very big tyres, yes they would help in the obstacles, but I would drive slower in the tarmac/road, so compromise is again the key and I use 33" Toyos or, if very muddy conditions, some 35" Simex.

The other form of competition is almost purely obstacles, which means having a car with big tyres (36, 37, sometimes more).

So...what we do!!

We are not fans of the automatic transmission type, so Gearbox and transferbox are stock LandRover R380+Lt230. I know, I know, the numbers tell you 380 nm is the maximum torque the gearbox can handle, but believe me, this is another case that theory is one think, what happens in real life is another (not saying they will last forever, just saying they are incredible strong )In my car I have a Quaife LSD center diff, others are stock...

Clutch

This was a problem, especially for the guys with bigger tires. Some ofthe solutions:

-Full extreme Outback with solid flywheel;
-Extreme Outback clutch and Rakeway Flywheel ( this kit started is live has a britpart kit. The only thinkt hat was good was te rakeway flywheel, so we managed to change some parts of the extreme outback clutch disc and plat, and made them work with the rakeway Flywheel)
-Our very own ceramic clutch disc (its a bit hard to usei n rock crawler and lower speeds and that´s a problem).
Pics of this clutch:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/s720x720/424768_405956672798682_1339089010_n.jpg

In my case I tend to use most original components as possible, so that I can give real life experience to my costumers and also, so that I can provide the cheapest solution when you want an upgrade! I´m using standard flywheel and clutch. In a big number of cars when changin gthe clutch, I realized the problem was not the disc itself, but the pressure plate. The easyest solution was to made the disc thicker in order to have the plate making more "pressure". This made the clutch pedal harder to push, so I´ve made some changes to the slave cylinder in order to give it more "power" and make the pedal softer.

Steering

We have a 110 that its using a full PSC hydraulic steering, but that it´salmost a prototype and its not really relevant here.

Al the cars ,including mine, are using Nissan Patrol GQ steering boxes. We are left hand drive, so we simply get some right hand drive boxes which are almost a direct fit, with small changes to the steering column and the bars These boxes are incredible strong and also allow you to move the steering wheel more easily, specially if you have bigger tyres and you are in a situation with the front diff lock on.

Check it out:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDBpcU9rHRk"]Defender 90 TD5 with 37" tires & soft steering - YouTube[/ame]

Originally Posted by td5inside

I really dont know what was the range in terms of equipment there in Australia, but you are always better off with the one that has less gadgets (if that can be said regarding to defenders )

But yes, commercial 90/110 should be the simplest. Back here, a commercial softop is the easyest. If you are using the stock td5 fuel pump, see the lenght you need for the fuel lines and then choose 90 or 110!

Regards

The commercial was never sold here, but I assume importing a loom and computer from a UK/EU breaker is an option - as long as it matches the engine code.

Matt - nothing a "power bulge" can't fix