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Thread: Rear main seal and crucifix seals

  1. #1
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    Rear main seal and crucifix seals

    I'm going to be fitting a R380 gearbox to my 1988 RRC where the stuffed auto used to be next week. My old man suggested if the car is going to be in that many pieces I should also change the rear main seal. After enquiring about the rear main the bloke suggested I should also replace the crucifix seals. So I will do this also. But without going over the top, is there anything else I should check or replace while I have the sump and flywheel off?

    If there is anything to look out for in the process please also share that info, it will be much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Hi Jazzman, just did my cruciform seals (89 RRC) and found that the new style seals are a !@#% dog to install. The new design is ribbed along each arm of the seal with raised edges. The horizontal arms are much shorter than the old style seal. Because of the raised edges the seals seat higher in the bearing cap and protrude more above the recess they sit in - making it impossible to push the bearing cap home without ripping the seals to bits on the edge of the block.

    When I wen to buy another pair of seals, I was very lucky that my local specialist in old Land Rovers lent me a special pair of guides he'd fabricated to do this job - essentially two flat pieces of about 6mm thick flat aluminium (45mm x 30mm) with a rounded shoulder on a 45mm side of each.

    Each flat piece is drilled (slightly slotted hole to allow accurate positioning) to allow a bolt to secure it to the sump bolt holes immediately adjacent to the rear main bearing cap. The rounded 45 mm edge of each then sits exactly on the edge of the block so that the cruciform seals can be guided in as the bearing cap is installed without their catching on the sharp squared edge of the block.

    This worked a treat for me though you still have to very careful getting the cap started evenly and slowly into the block. I oiled the seals well too.

    Sorry this is so wordy - you'll see what I mean as soon as you try to install the rear main bearing cap

  3. #3
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    You can use old feeler gauges, too. I just did this job a while ago but I can't remember having any problems - or how I did it.

    Here's a picture from a Series IIA workshop manual with "E" pointing to the sort of tool that Ron describes:

    Attached Images Attached Images
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the tips fellas. I'll let you know how I go.

  5. #5
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    Yep that's it exactly.
    While we're on it - I've read in some posts that people cut off the extruding ends flush with the sump gasket face before fitting the sump. Yet the manual states emphatically that the seals must protrude 1.5 mm. Do the ends just compress in when you fit the sump or what's the go?

  6. #6
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    I left them poking out as recommended and put a cork sump gasket on. It should be all nicely squished up.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for your further tip Davo.
    I read and re-read the factory manual on this issue as don't want to be doing this a third time in as many years. The wording in the manual seems to refer to leaving the ends protruding "on the parting face" of the main bearing cap but say nothing abut the other end where the sump gasket goes - but I'll go by your experience as I've wondered whether the seals need to be squished up from both ends to seal well.

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