center diff lock

If you do anything with the Boge unit please post it! Actually any hydraulic tinkerings ...:)

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I picked up another old Citroen CX parts car with a working stereo in it earlier this week.... So all being normal, I started fitting the stereo to the range rover and got side tracked .... I was trying to sort out the wiring and thought "the diff lock light is always on ............ Surely it MUST be a standard plunger type switch like a reversing light switch "... hmmmm I wonder what happen if you screwed it in and bottom it out (which would force the light to stay on ).... hmmm... So I found a diagram of the tranfer box and exploded diagram of the diff lock (which didn't really help me see how the detent bearings and light switch worked). So I figured there is only one way to find out... whip the switch out and if it works and if it's stuffed.

So I lifted the front corner, crawled under and managed to remove the diff lock swtich .............. As I crawled out I grabbed hold of the front wheel to drag the creeper out and it wouldn't turn ....................... Bugger me the diff lock had dropped in the second I'd removed the switch :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: So there's another thing to check for if your center diff lock doesn't work .... make sure the sender switch isn't screwed in and bottomed out :)

Now to refit the switch so it works correctly ................ oh yeah and finish putting the stereo in :angel: Gee's I'm hopeless at getting side tracked.

seeya,
Shane L.

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They are supposed to be put in with shim washers. Did you find any?

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Originally Posted by Davo

They are supposed to be put in with shim washers. Did you find any?

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That doesn't sound right, that may be the earlier transfer box. There is a locknut there, so what I did was put the diff lock in, then screw the switch in until the light illuminated. ie: until it "just" depressed the plunger switch on the end. Then I wound the lock nut down and locked it in that position.

Now if I move it over to diff lock, when stationary the light goes out almost immediately (ie: the dog clutch drops straight in). If I'm doing for example 30km/h it takes quite a while to drop in ... infact it might not even engage (ie: turn the dash light on) until I've slowed.

As a test I put the diff lock in and went and drove through the deep sloppy storm water drain that flows through the paddock beside our house.... Rather than bogging with one axle slipping it now drives straight through no problems 'cos first the rear axle is on solid ground, then the front axle is on solid ground on the other side when the rear wheels drop into the slop.

seeya,
Shane L.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

That doesn't sound right, that may be the earlier transfer box. There is a locknut there, so what I did was put the diff lock in, then screw the switch in until the light illuminated. ie: until it "just" depressed the plunger switch on the end. Then I wound the lock nut down and locked it in that position.

Now if I move it over to diff lock, when stationary the light goes out almost immediately (ie: the dog clutch drops straight in). If I'm doing for example 30km/h it takes quite a while to drop in ... infact it might not even engage (ie: turn the dash light on) until I've slowed.

As a test I put the diff lock in and went and drove through the deep sloppy storm water drain that flows through the paddock beside our house.... Rather than bogging with one axle slipping it now drives straight through no problems 'cos first the rear axle is on solid ground, then the front axle is on solid ground on the other side when the rear wheels drop into the slop.

seeya,
Shane L.

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Oops! My fault. I'm usually very careful with replies but for some reason I had the LT95 on my mind. Yes, you'd have an Lt230 transfer case with the locknut on the switch. And you've adjusted it just the way you're supposed to.