Thread: RRC - Enhancing Traction Options?

My long term (very long term) plan is Ashcroft ATB's front and back. The rear will work nicely with the traction control and the front will help even without TC.
Before then I'll have my 93 body and EAS sitting on my 85 chassis which already has a 4BD1T, Isuzu 5sp and LT230 with disco 24 spline axles.

BTW seats and mirrors are corrupted by the same ECU under the drivers seat for memory of the seats and mirrors. A memory battery leaks and corrodes through the tracks. My fix thread here: Electric Seat Question.

The Borg Warner case is purely mechanical and works quite well; but if you're bringing across a D2 engine, just bring the LT230 with it.

But remember. RRC's beat almost everything else for traction already because they keep their wheels on the ground. How many upgrades do you actually need? For me the ATB's are not on the "need" list, it will be a complete self indulgance.

"...Self indulgence....... is good"

(no apologies to Gordon Gecko)

Thanks Dougal. Good to know ATBs can be fitted front and rear. Yes the ATBs are more for additional peace of mind. Might never be "needed" but will be great peace of mind/insurance for borderline cases.
I bought the RRC with 1999 D2 TD5 and originally 4HP22, then 4HP24 already fitted/operational. Too late to fit a LT230. I'm assured it already has the 24 splines fitted (standard for 1994?).
appreciated the link and have copied relevant info.
Your system will be excellent.
Cheers Gavin

It's never too late to fit an LT230. But a rebuilt BW should be good for the next 100,000km or so anyway.

There's really no correlation between the etc and cv, they'll just do their own thing in their own time.

You've 24 spline axles (started in 93). Ashcroft atb diffs are the cheapest and have good reviews. Bare in mind the atb diffs wont appropriate torque under engine braking.

G'day again - can you expand a little on your comment "Bare in mind the atb diffs wont appropriate torque under engine braking" for this dumbo please?
I have trutracs in the D2a and they are excellent - albeit they have been tested more under uphill power, rather than downhill braking.

The engine-braking thing is not an issue, just means that the ATB behaves on overrun (or engine braking) same as an open diff.
I wouldn't be going to the trouble of replacing a wiring harness unless you have identified a specific issue with it; the seat & mirror ECU will be affected by a dead battery in the ECU which enables storage of memory function, a replacement battery can be had for about $20 and needs to be soldered inside the ECU which is under the driver's seat.
The EAS is most likely kaput due to a worn-out compressor. The systems develop small leaks over time which cause the compressor to run more than it should & subsequently wear out or burn-out the temp cutout; overhaul kits for the compressor are readily available but failure will occur again unless the whole system is de-leaked. The EAS valve body can be overhauled with a kit of o-rings for little cost, I'd highly recommend doing this, plus replacing the o-rings where the lines go into the air springs (included in above mentioned kit) and trimming the ends of the hoses so a fresh surface is presented to the o-rings.

Thanks POD. Good clarification.
Actually compressor etc should be good - complete system was recently overhauled before I bought the beast - but our local excellent Solihull trained lad will suss it all out before I go over the pits for WA rego.
Superquag has kindly offered to get me a seat battery along with purchasing his, so good insurance, and even if all OK, I'd want to replace it after 19 years if its original.