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I figured it couldn't be any worse on fuel lol
everyone has their own opinion on lifts and tires id just like to get as much advice and info on it all before hand I will be putting 35 on in the future but for now 33s will be fine
I prefer 15"rims as tires are a lot cheaper than 16s or 17s
thanks :)
15 inch steel rims are easy to get, about $80 - $100 each from Tyre dealers brand new, choose your offset to suit. Old Defender rims will suit. (Up to 2007 from memory). IMHO Discovery steel rims are the best value and are bloody strong.
I have done just about everything you are looking at doing to a 88 model. I have tough dog 35mm lift, not even 2" cos that is all they made. You can get larger lifts from places like Dobinsons Spring & Suspension - Official Site. My caster is at 0 degrees after 35mm lift. it is meant to be +6 degrees i think. you will need caster correction the car handles poorly and it is a shame as the car is so well refined to begin with.
If you want to fit 33 or 35's you will need to cut the guards and fit flares. I think to fit 35's you will need the body lift too. But don't forget the rim offset. You will need to get something like -20mm offset rims.
You are starting with a good base car. 3.9 litre rather than 3.5. You have 24 spline axles, they are stronger than the 10 spline from the earlier model and parts are more available for them. I'm not sure what transfer case you have but by the sounds of it you will want a non viscus one. I know the LT230 is not viscus but i cannot tell about the others. You should find this out before making your decision. Test the centre diff lock buy driving it 50-100m in high range and low range.
The ball joint on top of the A frame for the rear axle wears. This can cause the car to feel a big like a boat. not too expensive to replace.
My advice is don't buy parts in Australia for it. Get it all from the UK much cheaper including the freight. There are heaps of sites i'd be happy to show you.
15" tyres are generally wider for the same height (skinniest 33" is 10.5"). Which fitment wise means more offset in rims and more trimming/flaring of panels compared to the same height tyre in 16".Quote:
Originally Posted by scoundrel1998
15" rims will also make the #1 upgrade (bigger brake calipers) either hard or impossible.
Then you've got the legalities of wheel track increase, tyre size increase and vehicle lift over stock.
Hmmm....not sure about that one. 24's didn't arrive until 93.....?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzman
I could be wrong. I've been wrong before [bigwhistle]
Sorry for miss leading you scoundrel1998
I'd be looking for a 24 spline one. I've upgraded mine with disco 1 axle assemblies to get 24 spline.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog
to change to disco 1 do i change the whole housing or just center and axlesQuote:
Originally Posted by Jazzman
will the stock stuff handle 33s for now and ill upgrade if i put 35s on and break bits
is disco 1 strong enough or is there some thing else recommended
35s will most likely be a few months away unless i can find a set real cheap
it will be used as a daily driver/ weekend toy and tow a horse float every now and then
is there away to check with out pulling it apartQuote:
Originally Posted by bigdog
thanks every one for all your help and input
I too would have thought a 1990 model would be 10 spline. I have a 90 or 91 model front diff in the backyard for parts, and that is 10 spline.
\Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzman
its a 4 speed auto does that have anything to do with what transfer is in it
what am I looking for with the centre diff lock what should/shouldn't it do :confused:
would be good to know where to get parts cheaper :)
is there a what to tell what axels it has without pulling it apart ??