hi new here and need opinions and info

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Originally Posted by scoundrel1998

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its a 4 speed auto does that have anything to do with what transfer is in it


what am I looking for with the centre diff lock what should/shouldn't it do :confused:


would be good to know where to get parts cheaper :)

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Late 88 was the change from the LT230 with the locking centre diff to the Borg Warner viscous unit. If the lever inside moves sideways, then it's LT230.
This many years on there is no guarantee that what you have is what came out of the factory.

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Originally Posted by scoundrel1998

is there a what to tell what axels it has without pulling it apart ??

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10 spline diffs have mushroom caps on the centre of the hubs with imperial bolts. If you have metric bolts with flattish rear caps and rubber front caps then they *might* be 24 spline.
There are some which use the later metric style axle ends of the 24 spline but are actually 10 spline at the diff.

I have not fitted my 33" yet as i had to spend the money on a new gearbox unexpectedly. (Failure not anything to do with mods) But I put the 24 axle assemblies in complete from the disco 1 because i can get from Ashcroft Ashcroft Transmissions heaps stronger diff centers and pegging kits if i choose to.

I think the 24 spline axles will be plenty strong enough. And if they prove not to be i can fit the stronger diff center.

The D1 Axle assemblies bolted straight in. BUT the brake calipers did not. I had to drill out the bolt holes about 0.5mm larger to fit the RRC calipers. The D1 calipers will bolt straight on but the they only take one brake line and the Rangies have 2 brake lines. I didn't want to block 1 line off, others have done this though. Parts for Rangies are not nearly as expensive as Nissan. You will find there is value in buying the hole assembly rather than just the axles this way you know you have everything you need.

There is a thread with pictures on this forum somewhere explaining how to tell the difference between 24 and 10 spline without pulling them apart. Either use the search on the forum or google it. You'll find it.

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Originally Posted by scoundrel1998

to change to disco 1 do i change the whole housing or just center and axles


will the stock stuff handle 33s for now and ill upgrade if i put 35s on and break bits

is disco 1 strong enough or is there some thing else recommended

35s will most likely be a few months away unless i can find a set real cheap


it will be used as a daily driver/ weekend toy and tow a horse float every now and then

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by scoundrel1998

to change to disco 1 do i change the whole housing or just center and axles


will the stock stuff handle 33s for now and ill upgrade if i put 35s on and break bits

is disco 1 strong enough or is there some thing else recommended

35s will most likely be a few months away unless i can find a set real cheap


it will be used as a daily driver/ weekend toy and tow a horse float every now and then

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Disco 1 centre and axles will go in the rangie housing - the Disco 1 is basically an RRC with a different body on it and many parts are interchangable. The stock 24 splines from a D1 will last a lot longer than the 10 spline stuff, especially with the bigger tyres on it. Lot of people run the standard 24 spline gear with bigger tyres without issues.

If you get around to upgrading the engine output and stick 35's on it, then you may have to look at better axles and CV's. By the time you go this far, then you would want to be running a locker or similar in the rear or both ends, and this would take care of the centres.

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Originally Posted by bacicat

Disco 1 centre and axles will go in the rangie housing - the Disco 1 is basically an RRC with a different body on it and many parts are interchangable. The stock 24 splines from a D1 will last a lot longer than the 10 spline stuff, especially with the bigger tyres on it. Lot of people run the standard 24 spline gear with bigger tyres without issues.

If you get around to upgrading the engine output and stick 35's on it, then you may have to look at better axles and CV's. By the time you go this far, then you would want to be running a locker or similar in the rear or both ends, and this would take care of the centres.

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24 spline axles only work with the later, metric, hubs and stubs. You can keep axle housings, but you need to swap hubs and stubs to match the axles. The drive flange location, drive flange bolt size and bolt PCD are the changes that necessitate the hub swap, the hub dictates the stub axle swap.

Also. Some early diff housings have short studs at the 3 and 9 o'clock position holding the diff-head in. Later diff heads require longer studs at all positions.

There you go, learned some thing new.:)

I knew it was different but i wasn't sure what was different. That's why i went the assembly swap. I picked up both axle assemblies disc to disc for approx. $190.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

24 spline axles only work with the later, metric, hubs and stubs. You can keep axle housings, but you need to swap hubs and stubs to match the axles. The drive flange location, drive flange bolt size and bolt PCD are the changes that necessitate the hub swap, the hub dictates the stub axle swap.

Also. Some early diff housings have short studs at the 3 and 9 o'clock position holding the diff-head in. Later diff heads require longer studs at all positions.

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ive learnt a bit on this site still working out how to use it

how do i test the centre diff lock (drive in high and low for 50-100m) what am i looking for how do i tell if it is shot besides obvious loud noises lol

is there problems with the Borg Warner viscous transfer ??

will 10 spline be suitable for 33s for now

There is some good and bad info in this thread. I'll cover some very basic points.

For testing the transferase you simply push the short high/low shifter forward to select low range. Make sure you are traveling at a slow pace or stationary with the auto in neutral before you shift ranges.

Larger lifts are easy. 3" is a good height. castor correction makes the drive more enjoyable.

Ten spline axles will eventually break on 33s.

With 33s and above I would reccomend 16x8 rims at -25 offset.
This will require modification to the guards and flares.

Assuming you're in tambourine QLD? You're more then welcome to come visit before or after purchase and I can show you over my vehicle to get ideas on what can and can't be done.

Cheers
Grimace

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Originally Posted by Grimace

Larger lifts are easy. 3" is a good height. castor correction makes the drive more enjoyable.

Ten spline axles will eventually break on 33s.

With 33s and above I would reccomend 16x8 rims at -25 offset.
This will require modification to the guards and flares.

Assuming you're in tambourine QLD? You're more then welcome to come visit before or after purchase and I can show you over my vehicle to get ideas on what can and can't be done.

Cheers
Grimace

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I cant find anywhere that sells any larger than 45mm lift ?




so I should be looking for discovery 1 front and rear diffs what would is a reasonable price for them




rims im not to fussed on tho I do like 15s because I can get tires cheap
don't mind trimming the guards or putting flares on


yeah tamborine qld but im not on the mountain im on cedar creek side
would be good to have a look over and get some more advice


the range rovers going to cost $1900 rwc&rego I thought that was a good price

Disco 1 24 spline axles are rubber donut drive instead of a universal joint on the rear prop-shaft.
The rubber donuts allegedly work fine at standard height, but chew out with the pinion angles of a lift.

So that's another conversion for you. 4 bolt drive flange for the disco 1 rear diff.