Ok the build tag says "4104L 439'. There solex carbies, I can't find a bloody detail on them anywhere (eg: float level, etc...) :) They appear to have never been touched before. no munched or missing fasteners, and nothing overtight.
seeya,
shane L.
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Ok the build tag says "4104L 439'. There solex carbies, I can't find a bloody detail on them anywhere (eg: float level, etc...) :) They appear to have never been touched before. no munched or missing fasteners, and nothing overtight.
seeya,
shane L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
G`day ,
Zenith Solex Stromberg , this type all the same thing .
4104 says it should have an 11D prefix engine 9.35:1 , it is an Emission engine and the carbs should wear B1FH needles , should be top adjust , should wear a Lucas 41873 distributor .
Float level is measured from the gasket face on the carb body to the top of the float ( when the carb is upside down ).
It should be 16 to 17 mm on both floats , normal deal bend the tab .
Sweet... right on all counts. '85 locally sold Classic with high compression pollution motor :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PLR
seeya,
Shane L.
AFAIR the 85 pollution motort should have had air injection and a ported vaccuum switch that switched the air intake down onto the manifolds when cold.
I think that is what the vacuum takeoff under the LH carb is for, is to go to a ported vacuum switch that is temperature controlled , and moves a flap in the intake to assist warm up, because they run so lean. If that is not there ,and few are, it may explain the poor cold running.
BTW , don't be tempted to shift the vacuum advance hose from its correct location on top of the butterfly, as this is "ported vacuum" not straight vacuum and depends on the butterfly being slightly open, as it would be under light throttle openings .
Regards Philip A
Oh man ... it had a pollution pump ?? It seems to always run lean ... but nicely on 30+degree days ( lean + heat == better running). Ok, I'll solder the poppet valves shut, make sure any disconnected/removed pollution crap is blocked off... Then make sure the carbies are balanced... If running still seems lean, I'll chase up mixture tool and increase it 1/2turn at a time until I'm happy with the way it runs :) (that way I can always put it back to where it is now if required).Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Drivers side exhaust manifold has a "box" type "thing" on it, that's open at the top. I assumed it was some sort of heated intake but can't see how it would ever have been hooked up originally. No doubt a local mechanic pulled all the pollution crap off decades ago :)
seeya,
Shane L.
That's the one . There used to be an extension on the air cleaner intake, with a flap valve inside which opened downwards when the engine was cold and sucked air off the exhaust manifold. When the engine warmed a water temp controlled ported switch opened and lowered the flap in the inlet to cut off air from the manifold and open the front of the inlet. Or something like that.Quote:
Drivers side exhaust manifold has a "box" type "thing" on it, that's open at
the top. I assumed it was some sort of heated intake but can't see how it would
ever have been hooked up originally. No doubt a local mechanic pulled all the
pollution crap off decades ago :)
seeya,
I haven't actually seen one on a RRC but a friend had a County 110 in Saudi and he wondered why he had no performance. The paper and silver paper pipe from the manifold had collapsed internally. Different air filter arrangement but the same principle and AFAIK components.
I think you would be better off getting needles and main jets from a UK spec carby without the emission spec rather than the OZ one. The cam in those engines was also the worst cam made by Land Rover and a 3.9 cam will bring it to life. I didn't relise this when I owned a 77 withan 85 motor in it and I was amazed when I drove a later car that had non emission cam and carbs on it. Even though it was low compression it was far more powerful than mine.
It may of course have had the cam changed at some stage.
Regards Philip A
OMG ....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/02/999.jpg
No wonder all that **** "fell off" years ago. This one looks really clean and tidy as all the pollution crap and A/C has been removed.
Given how nicely it runs on a hot day, I think it should be quite ok if I can just adjust the mixture up slightly .... Doesn't need to be a lot :) The specifications (torque/power) seemed to be spec'd exactly the same of the '85 models, so I'm hoping the camshaft not be choking it. I'd think wear would be more of an issue to anything else. After all it's done nearly 200,000kms.
seeya,
Shane L.
This is quite remarkable for something that's 29years old with nearly 200,000kms of wear on it ... I don't reckon these carbies have ever been to bits before.
This is the rubber diaphram I removed ... It's more supple and thinner than the new replacement and better quality IMO.... it's also 29years old though ....
This poppet valve idea is plain bizzare .... Look at the restriction to the air flow. I sweated some solder through and snipped 'em off with some side cutters. The bits you see I managed to solder together as well, so there staying (If I melted the solder to remove them .... the poppet valve would likely drop off too... imagine trying to hold it in place to resolder it without the mechanism there too hold it together :eek:
I removed the throttle spindal and the seals ...Sigh ...... Now I find the carby kit didn't include the spindal seals ... bugger it. Oh well, I better check what else is missing. The piston 'O'ring (that I couldn't see how to fish out easily) isn't included either.
What the hell did they make these carbies out of... No ovalisation, not really any measurable wear in the spindal .... Most old webers and solexes I pull apart are ovalised right out in the bearings. I'll just put it back together with the 29year old spindal seals still in place :eek:
Note: the screws from the brass butterfly were staggeringly tight (I had to grind down a perfectly shaped screwdriver to fit them without destruction). They were burred over at the back (see how they have broken away at the end). Should I refit with loctite ?? You see if they come loose they'll go through the motor :eek: :eek: which obviously isn't a great idea :angel:
seeya,
Shane L.
Yes, Loctite and I bash the ends as well.