eas

Going down, the front valves are opened as a pair, first, to lower the nose. When that's finished, the rear pair open and drop the rear.
Going up is the reverse, rear end goes UP first ,then the front.

Roll bars were only fitted to appease the wuss market... folk who get sea-sick. Original design philosophy did'nt include them, AFAIK> Does little for the handling except restrict articulation in the Very Ruff Stuff. Never tried mine without them... am told the rock'n'roll is even worse on air than on coil springs...

Pity Citroen did'nt think of building a 4WD verson of the ID or DS series... would have cornered the market before the R/Rover was even thought of.:eek:

Yes, i've read that the air springs have less roll stiffness than the coilies as well. I've never tried my 93 without roll bars (always wanted to though); but the early rangies did have it over the eas models in the rough stuff.

The front air springs are connected together every time the vehicle stops. This provides cross linking to encourage front axle articulation. It's a very clever system. It levels off the rear suspension sensors.

Mmm, that's interesting. I've read almost the opposite somewhere; that both rear valves open for a few seconds after taking off to level off, and that it averages the rear and levels out to the front.

Living with eas for almost 10 years now I don't think either is neccessarily true though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by benji

Mmm, that's interesting. I've read almost the opposite somewhere; that both rear valves open for a few seconds after taking off to level off, and that it averages the rear and levels out to the front.

Living with eas for almost 10 years now I don't think either is neccessarily true though.

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Have a read of this: http://rave.stringsandints.com/eas.pdf
Page 8 under the heading "in gear height request" it describes connecting the two front springs together for 3 seconds every time the vehicle stops.
Without this function the front end is very stiff. Hit the inhibit switch and jack up a front corner without the interconnects and the suspension will barely articulate. That big front sway bar combined with the progressive spring curves of air-bags makes it possible to get both wheels off the ground with only a few inches of give.

It does try to level if any sensor is out by more than 2 bits. But it does this by levelling the back corners to the stored bits. The interconnect of the front just leaves them cycling up and down several times if there is a calibration problem or parked on uneven ground. But this does time-out after a while.

When I got my 93 the EAS was all on the ****. I think a sensor had been replaced without calibration and it fought itself continually to level. It was re-calibrating it with EASunlocksuite that I learned the rears set the level. I was trying for about half an hour to jack up the front left and lower the front right.

Thanks guys for contributing to the post. I have removed all the lines that enter the valve block from each corner of car. Using 1/4 connections and lines I routed these to bonne. I have pped them up. Whats maximum pressure? Both rears corners over night go flat to bump stops. Im thinking this was prob reason the eas not working. I have not checked lines for leaks besides listening to t connections I have used. The only other connections would be where the air lines enter the top of air bags. Right? Is it onlyonle air line that taps into air bag? This line is exhausted through valves in valve block? I would like to fit new air springs as these on all four corners are cracked. Whick brand would someone recommend and where to source. Thanks champs

Regards matt

Fittings are 6mm, not quarter inch. That could be your problem.

Bags are on eBay UK. Rear bags for all round.

Wot Dougal sed...

Initially I would'nt believe it either, a Pommy car with Imperial nuts/bolts all over it so you'd assume it would have to be 1/4" hoses and fittings. Especially as Imperial stuff is still sold in Australia....
Trust us, mixing 6mm and 1/4" (6.35mm) might work enough to fool you, but it's not sealing properly.

I take it you've already built the 'self-rescue' isolation system ?
In case you have'nt.... it allows you to isolate each bag from the valve block, and manually inflate/deflate them. Invaluable for determining whether the bag is leaking, or hoses or the valve block.

Go with the replacement rubber bellows as Dougal suggested, 'rear' for both ends. Suggest you don't go with total replacement units from the US, as the rubber section is non-replaceable, and the original setup gives you a slightly softer highway ride.

gents im working on eas for rsnge rover. Front bags seem theyre holding but both rear the air runs out over night. One side holds air long than other but bith rear airbags leak. I have sprayed water with detergent around house fittings atends near valve block. im currently pumping air in to them with garage air and not going through the valve block. Using 6mm fittings too. Ive sprayed the bag too at bottom where it rolls over the aluminium cone. I dont think its going to show much. Are these known to leak at top where line enters?

cheers
:):):):D:D:D

They could possibly leak anywhere.

Take the hose out of the fitting, cut the compressed piece off the end, clean it all and slide it back in. That should stop the possibility of leaks there.

If you don't know how old the bags are, I'd replace any that appear suspect. Put the vehicle up to full height and look for cracks. If you see any, time to replace them.