Thread: eas

Yes, there are relays and a massive big fuse under the driver's seat. Compressor lives under the car, attached to the chassis where it can get extra cooling when you wade through water...

You need the RAVE manual, available at the 'SHOP' in the green top band above. Either as a CD, or as a Digital Download. Everyone else here has access to one, and you'll get nowhere fast without it !

or go here... https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium...at_id=3&page=2

The EAS is frustrating at times, NOT cheap to fix & maintain, but the WOW factor is priceless. Conversion to coils is cheaper, though limits you a little on highway or off-road depending on whether you go for 2" lift of not.
In some parts of Oz, this has the potential to be a problem for annual Roadworthy Certificates, as it was not a factory option.

If you haven't monkeyed with this yet let me introduce you to my little friend….

Originally Posted by MICHELINXMS244

If you haven't monkeyed with this yet let me introduce you to my little friend….

Is that how simple it is ?? A tiny compressor with an air solenoid for each bag Who said simple isn't better!

How does it sense it's at the correct height though

seeya,
Shane L.

Ahh, young Grasshopper, it is all done with Very Clever Bits inside the EAS- Electronic Control Unit. This, and a potentiometer (fancy name for a variable resistor gizmo) attached to each suspension arm.
As the arms move up & down, they change resistance. This is sensed by the EAS-ECU and compared to pre-programmed values. It then signals the Solonoid Driver ECU (another box of less Clever Bits) and tells it which valves to open to adjust the height.
The pump is pretty dumb, just runs till the tank - mounted on the passenger side - reaches a pre-set pressure, and tries to keep it there.

The priceless bit is.... you can set the height to 'Standard' and it stays there forever, more or less.

Or you can leave it to 'Automatic' and it starts off at Standard height... and when you're hooning down the highway it will lower the car so as to give you better handling.

You can manually set it ot 'High' for when you're on really Ruff Stuff. Or want to impress the wife/girlfriend/mistress/ToyNisBishi owners...

Lastly, you can set it to 'Access' (low) if your arthritis makes it difficult to get in or out....

Get theRAVE manual and read all about it, -

-- then we'll tell you all the Good News.

Originally Posted by superquag

Ahh, young Grasshopper, it is all done with Very Clever Bits inside the EAS- Electronic Control Unit. This, and a potentiometer (fancy name for a variable resistor gizmo) attached to each suspension arm.
As the arms move up & down, they change resistance. This is sensed by the EAS-ECU and compared to pre-programmed values. It then signals the Solonoid Driver ECU (another box of less Clever Bits) and tells it which valves to open to adjust the height.
The pump is pretty dumb, just runs till the tank - mounted on the passenger side - reaches a pre-set pressure, and tries to keep it there.

The priceless bit is.... you can set the height to 'Standard' and it stays there forever, more or less.

Or you can leave it to 'Automatic' and it starts off at Standard height... and when you're hooning down the highway it will lower the car so as to give you better handling.

You can manually set it ot 'High' for when you're on really Ruff Stuff. Or want to impress the wife/girlfriend/mistress/ToyNisBishi owners...

Lastly, you can set it to 'Access' (low) if your arthritis makes it difficult to get in or out....

Get theRAVE manual and read all about it, -

-- then we'll tell you all the Good News.

That's interesting, it must "average" the wheel resisters ... You see, what if one wheel in sitting in a hole The logic to work out the height would be complex, but how it works and fixing it should be simple'ish. The hydraulic cars I have use a clamp on the center of the rollbar. Being the center of the rollbar overages the height over the axle, if the rollbar rotates... this means the car is higher/lower, so it opens a valve in the height corrector to add or remove pressure (ie: raise/lower the axle). Very simple when you think about it.

I was wondering how Range Rover was doing it given they don't have rollbars to to use.

seeya,
Shane L.

M. Shane,
Ze French prefer to do things their own way, invariably contrairement à l'anglais - Quite often they get away with it too

Which explains Citroen's simple, in-built height control, front/rear balance of braking force without using a valve etc to do it, INboard disc brakes, tracking headlights back in the late 50's and comfortable car seats. And self-centering power steering.


The R/R system strives for overall balance and tries to keep all 4 values within range of each other, but also to the height selected. Don't understand the details of the programming, except being English, it will involve compromise, deviousness and perfidy.....

But it is quite well-mannered, sequencing the front and rear 'bags whenever it raises or lowers so that one's headlights are not so impolite as to dazzle oncoming motorists.

James in Gosnells WA,
'93 Classic Vogue SE with working EAS. - and RWD...

All eas classics should have roll bars, if not they've been removed.


There's an electrical and a pneumatic diagram in RAVE; if you study this you'll release how simple it is.

Don't get too hung up on the logic programing, or the pwm control from the driver - its interesting none the less, and good fun trying to work out out as you drive.

The eas is no longer expensive to fix.

Originally Posted by superquag

M. Shane,
Ze French prefer to do things their own way, invariably contrairement à l'anglais - Quite often they get away with it too

Which explains Citroen's simple, in-built height control, front/rear balance of braking force without using a valve etc to do it, INboard disc brakes, tracking headlights back in the late 50's and comfortable car seats. And self-centering power steering.


The R/R system strives for overall balance and tries to keep all 4 values within range of each other, but also to the height selected. Don't understand the details of the programming, except being English, it will involve compromise, deviousness and perfidy.....

But it is quite well-mannered, sequencing the front and rear 'bags whenever it raises or lowers so that one's headlights are not so impolite as to dazzle oncoming motorists.

James in Gosnells WA,
'93 Classic Vogue SE with working EAS. - and RWD...

I have an old Rangie without EAS. It sounds interesting though... Hee,hee... Who's have thought of dropping the nose first so you don't lift the headlights.... Realistically that would happen due to it being the heaviest end either way. Citroen brakes? It's hydraulic not air, so the pressure from the rear suspension feeds the rear brakes. ie: If I drop a loaded car trailer on the back ( yes I've done that often ), you have tremendous pressure in the rear suspension to lift it upto normal ride height ... this immense pressure is then used by the rear brakes. If the cars running along empty, there is barely any pressure in the rear suspension, and the brakes do bugger all. I've never needed to change a set of rear break pads and I've been driving the cars since I was 16years old! (over 20years ).

I'd love to go for a drive in an EAS rangie one day to see how different it is too the mid 80's spring models (I like the way the early non-EAS rangie rolls all over the place without rollbars too).

seeya,
Shane L.