Thread: cam and lifters???

You could try Rimmer Bros. Get the bits straight from England.
Don't forget to order new Inlet Manifold Gasket (Valley Cover), and the end seals for it.
At least get the End Seals. If you still have a Tin Valley Cover, you should be able to reuse it.

RealSteel.co.uk have a few options for cams and lifters, including different pushrods.

Something worth thinking about is also replacing the timing chain and sprockets while your there, consider a duplex timing chain set.

Did the serpentine belt 'interim' motors have a crank driven oil pump? If so the duplex chain may be to wide.

Triumph rover spares, turner engineering, Bruce Davis Automotive.

Sorry for the late reply - I've got a Kent H180 and lifters from Turner, and I've just put about 80km on it so far. Pulls well, nice sound! I was surprised at how this engine growled compared to the old one.

I used to use duplex chains, until I had a couple rub on the distributor mount casting in the timing cover. The factory chain will last the same life as the cam, with correct oil changes.
Rover spent millions of dollars re-engineering the Buick motor, improving many things including timing chains. The morse chain actually stretches at high revs, slightly retarding the timing, lessening the chance of detonation.

Thanks heaps for all the help guys much appreciated... And Dave where did you source the parts from, also how would I replace the shaft bearings, I'm thinking it only makes sense that I change the bearings whilst I have the motor pulled apart this far... Thanks again for all the advice...

Do not succumb to the temptation to use an old cam with new lifters. The cam lobes and respective lifters wear into each other and you'll find premature failure ensues if you don't do the whole lot and run them in properly.

When I built my 3.9 I had new cam bearings fitted on the bare block. It's not something that could be easily achieved with the engine fitted.

I fitted a Rollmaster duplex chain kit with multiple keyways and checked cam timing on the #1 cylinder. Just chucking everything in with standard gears aligned "dot to dot" is a punt that everything was machined correctly. In order to get factory timing with the standard cam I needed to use the 4° advance keyway.

Pics and description of the build here.