Thread: Dual fuel V8 tune Far East Melbourne (Pakenham area

Roverland in Ferntreegully.
Dorset Rd.....

Idle speed: if everything else is OK adjust it yourself? There's a little recess on top of the throttle body, insert a 3/16 allen key in there and wind it down a little bit.

Originally Posted by Jazzman

I need someone to tune my dual fuel 1988 Range Rover Classic. I want them to have a clue about rangies. I thought Rawson automotive had an idea, as one of guy guys there friend has a RRC.

But they tuned my car for 6 DBTDC and it had a miss at 1900 rpm i've advanced the timing to 9 DBTDC and it runs mint but the idle is too high on both petrol and gas. It also get terrible fuel consumption.

Approx. 30 liters per 100 kms on gas on the high way. not much different on petrol.

I know they can do better then this as the 86 with a cam in it got at least 18 liters per 100kms on petrol.

The alternative is someone really smart person who knows exactly why my car runs great but idles too high will be able to tell me how to fix it without going to a mechanic.

Are you taking about Rawson Motors in Officer ?
Yes they do have a exceptional good reputation for anything LPG , Plenty a friend of mine have raved about them over the years and i mean years.
As Bee utey says its not hard to adust or tune your self . Id personly contact Rawsons with your concerns with a chance to rectify said concerns before passing them off

Originally Posted by bee utey

Idle speed: if everything else is OK adjust it yourself? There's a little recess on top of the throttle body, insert a 3/16 allen key in there and wind it down a little bit.

Are you refering to the idle mixture screw on the flapper? I've tried this but it makes very little difference. I've also tried the screw on the plenum it is all the way in, if i screw it out idle gets faster.

Originally Posted by rangieman

Are you taking about Rawson Motors in Officer ?
Yes they do have a exceptional good reputation for anything LPG , Plenty a friend of mine have raved about them over the years and i mean years.
As Bee utey says its not hard to adust or tune your self . Id personly contact Rawsons with your concerns with a chance to rectify said concerns before passing them off

Yea it is Rawsons in Officer. Their communication to clients is terrible. However, the mechanic was very good to speak to. Personally i think the lady in the office let them down with my experience. After listening to bee utey next response maybe i should give them another go.

Originally Posted by Jazzman

Are you refering to the idle mixture screw on the flapper? I've tried this but it makes very little difference. I've also tried the screw on the plenum it is all the way in, if i screw it out idle gets faster.

If I was referring to the idle mixture screw on the flapper, I would have typed something about the idle mixture screw on the flapper. I didn't. I suggest you need to understand that adjusting mixture to reduce idle speed is a bad idea.

Your idle speed is mainly controlled by the big valve thingy low down in front of the plenum chamber. That has wires connected to it and has biggish hoses and pipes leading from the air cleaner side of the throttle and to the plenum side. Check that it's plugged in and there's power at the plug with the engine on. The valve contains a heating element that slowly closes the air flow, therefore adjusting idle speed. It can be stuck or broken, run some carby cleaner through it. The hoses to it can be split, loose or falling off. If everything external is working you may have to find another idle control valve.

Originally Posted by bee utey

If I was referring to the idle mixture screw on the flapper, I would have typed something about the idle mixture screw on the flapper. I didn't. I suggest you need to understand that adjusting mixture to reduce idle speed is a bad idea.

Your idle speed is mainly controlled by the big valve thingy low down in front of the plenum chamber. That has wires connected to it and has biggish hoses and pipes leading from the air cleaner side of the throttle and to the plenum side. Check that it's plugged in and there's power at the plug with the engine on. The valve contains a heating element that slowly closes the air flow, therefore adjusting idle speed. It can be stuck or broken, run some carby cleaner through it. The hoses to it can be split, loose or falling off. If everything external is working you may have to find another idle control valve.

Thanks beeutey i didn't mean to sound like an idiot. I just wasn't sure what you were saying. I was just trying to give you as much info as possible. I'll find this valve, cheers

The extra air valve. Meant to read 33 ohms on the heater coil inside. Has power connected on ignition and apparently shouldn't drop during starting, that's interesting. Anyway this valve i accidentally poured water down it about a month ago while by mistaking it for the heater hose going to the gas converter. Ended up filling the engine with water. Wasn't my smartest moment. It is probably stuffed, I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks for your help bee utey. If it is getting lots of air all the time i guess this would mean more fuel would be used to compensate for extra air to keep the mixture ratio right? If this sounds plausible it could explain poor fuel economy.